It's a brandname i never heard off before myself, but i'm still quite new to the flashlight scene :). Now they also have a 4 mode which features low med hi strobe.
3 mode draws 4A current on high, 4 mode 3A on high, don't know if this will make a lot of difference lumen wise.
I'm going to buy cold or neutral version, but as i don't own neutral ones i don't know what to expect. Also going for 4 mode with 3A at high but don't know what i have to expect compared to 4A on 3 mode.
I have the Warm White version, and it is a very impressive torch. Build quality is top-notch, as is the anodizing. The battery carrier is a bit weaker than the rest of the light, but perfectly serviceable - and able to fit the longer 18700 XTAR protected batteries.
With some unprotected AW IMR 18650s the currents were:
High: 3.01 A
Med: 0.51 A
Strobe: 1.42 A
I am very happy with this one, and will likely purchase the Neutral version as well.
I'm doubting between cold and neutral. Warm would definetely be to orangish for me, but I dont really know what i should expect from neutral since i never owned such a light.
You can choose between 3 (hi lo strobe) and 4 modes (lo med hi strobe)
Each of these modes you can also choose cold, neutral or white, so in total giving you 6 options
The 4-mode CW light now also runs on 3A, so useable with batteries like xtar 2600 (protected)
I quote the salesman
"If you persue the brightness, you can choose CW 3 mode, which driven at 4A; But to the led's good, the 4-mode 3A CW will be a better choice."
But i guess the 4 mode will still be very bright as '2100' measured 2,8A and said its much brighter then the skyray. Just don't know wether the brightness wil come out better with cool or neutral white.
Sorry if I missed it above, but is there a link to a webpage that shows the neutral version, and/or the 4-mode version?
Also, if the 4-mode version goes Low-Medium-High-Strobe instead of HMLS, and if it has no memory, I'd buy one for sure. I have a couple of moderately powerful lights now, and it always bugs me that I have to flip through H and M before I get to L. Some people say just leave it in L when you turn it off, and if your light has memory, it'll come back on in L mode. Okay yes sure, but then if I want M, I have to cycle all the way around. I'd much rather have no memory, and always know that the light will come on in L (which on this light would probably be bright enough for most uses).
having a light with LMH and no memory is also good if you lend your lights to other people. They'll turn on the light, it'll come on in L, and that'll usually be all they'll need.
I think I bought the 3A WW version and hope the tint is not too yellow, a pity that there was no NW version available at the time I bought this light
Normaly I recieved my DRY today, but those amateurs at the Post or Custom forgot to deliver the right documents at my local Postoffice, they could not scan the pakkage and had to return the goods back to Brussels (customs).
Here you can see the colors, but to me neutral still looks very orangish. The seller stated that all the 4 modes use 3A and the only light i know of that draws 4A is the 3 mode CW. But i'm no expert I'm just being told that.
There's some confusion here because 3A can mean 3 amps or the cree tint "3A" which is neutral.
No you can't choose current, it's just whatever you get via luck of the draw, however the cool white emitters seem to pass more current when hooked up to fresh batteries. 4 amps is not good for the emitters, but I suppose it'll drop as the batteries deplete.
Firstly, Welcome Chicago X, very nice to see you from CPF.
Agenthex, you can choose 3A or 4A, there are 2 distinct drivers...basically the 4A is 3 mode (Hi Lo Strobe) and 3A is (Hi Mid Lo Strobe). I am not sure if the CW has stocks of the 3A driver, but with WW and the new NW you can opt for that. 3A is good for use in countries like mine.
Technically if you ask me, there is still some meat left from 3A->4A....check out the LED calculator spreadsheet in BLF for XM-L/XP-G (use the forum search which uses google). Probably gain some 200 lumens from 3A to 4A if you'll be using in winter and you live in Toronto or something. I have confirmed this with dry ice and lux meter, the cooler the temperature of the LEDs the more you can actually raise the bar. (with the Sky Ray 3xT6 and you guys know the drill how it's driven, I managed to over-drive it from 260 lux direct measurement at a distance to 450 plus lux)