No it is not regulated. The current would drop as you use it. It is ok if you use good batteries, more than enough juice, 3A per emitter is no joke in a tropical country even if it drops to 2A later....this is no TK70.
I posted these questions on CPFMarketplace but haven't gotten answers yet. re-posting them here in case you owners out there know the answers:
- Does anyone know what the output lumens are for all three steady modes of the 4-mode version, and how the low modes of the 3-mode and 4-mode versions compare?
I would want the 4-mode version's medium mode to be the same as the 3-mode version's low mode, and the 4-mode version's low mode to be in the 100-200 lumen range.
- It's been established that the 4-mode version is not DD in High mode. But do we know whether the output is current-regulated? Has anyone done an output vs. run-time chart?
Also, more questions:
- does it tailstand without wobbling?
- how does the switch feel?
- with the light in your hand and your arm hanging straight down, how do you manipulate the light to press the switch to change modes?
- I believe someone said that the switch is a standard mechanical clicky; not an electronic pushbutton. Can owners confirm?
- if anyone owns a 4-mode version, but can't answer my first question about the lumen numbers, perhaps you could just tell me qualitatively what the spacing of the modes is like, and/or how bright the low mode is in comparison to other popular lights.
Yeah, the 4-mode 3A is not DD, just like most of the regular 1 x 18650 chinese lights they just cut the current but it is not current regulated because the current draw goes down as you use it. I am actually ok with this with "hotrods" because it tends to somewhat protect the light by running cooler gradually. Seriously just charge up the light or have a space pack if you want max lumens (I have 8 x XTAR 2600s just for my 2 DRYs and another triple XM-L the TF 3T6, well my Sky Ray triple XM-L is busted). Anyway 3A -> 2A sloping down, it is still PLENTY of lumens. One more application for this is as an "extreme runtime light" in LOW, and it definitely would be very efficient due to 3 emitters vs 1 single one.
Yes the light tailstands, and the mechanical switch is firm and engagingly loud. LOL! No wussy here.
With the arm hanging straight down, i can't change modes with one hand neither with the usual 1 or 2 x 18650 lights. I use 2 hands, esp if you have gloves. You still can flip it up with one hand so that you engage with your index finger to press, no issue here.....a bit getting used to but it'd get the job done no biggie.
Thanks, 2100. Could you comment on the spacing of the HML modes too, if you get a chance? 2100, do you have both a 3-mode and a 4-mode? If so, I'd like to know if the 3-mode L is the same as the 4-mode M. For the 4-mode, I'm interested in that "extreme runtime on low" too, which is one reason I'd like to know the mode spacing. Other reasons:
- if I lend this light to someone, I want the output to be quite low, and if they say they want more light, I'll show them how to get it.
- if I get this light, it'll be one of my two EDCs, and I wouldn't want to always have to switch to my keychain light for low-light applications.
Oh, one more question: I saw a picture somewhere showing this light under water. Do the o-rings seem tight all around? There were some people commenting that the Skyray 3800's front o-ring wasn't tight. For close to $100, I'd expect this light to be completely watertight, at least in shallow water. I'm definitely going to use this light in the rain, so it has to be watertight.
There are pictures here that I haven't seen before:
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10849356995&ad_id=&am_id=&cm_id=&pm_id=
It's hard to tell from these pictures, but I don't see the excellent heatsinking that others have mentioned. i.e. I don't see what the MCPCBs are mounted onto. Can someone explain?
Also, what is the purpose of the threads at the top edge of the reflector?
Last: how thick is the battery tube (qualitative description)?
Peteybaby, i will do a write-up once i receive my Shadow and NW Dry triple XM-L, with all the measurements.
It seems pretty watertight, i put it under running water. My SR3800 is watertight, i put it under water and it is ok as long as you lube the O-rings. Both my DRY and SR3800 do not rattle (front glass lens). Rainshower is a piece of cake. But do not rely on it to work in a swimming pool.
Dasfriek took some pics (SR3800), seems like you found new pictures. Anyway it should be quite ok, i will do the lux drop test in cold and warm conditions which would take a while. Sorry but I have something more urgent to do, my Tenergy LSD Centural has some issues in the TK70, luckily i managed to solve it (in 5hrs!).
The battery tube is about 2mm thick, it rings a bit if you knuckle rap when it is empty, but once the batteries are inside it is way solid. More solid than my Fenix TK70. LOL!
Hi peteybaby,
Mine is 3 modes(High, Low, Strobe), warm white.
There is an o-ring on the bezel ring & head respectively. In my view, no problem
in the rain and in shallow water.
The circuit inside the head is protected by some heatproof pads and there're
many these pads including heatproof taping I think. The reflector is connected
to the head firmly by threads. The battery tube has 2.5mm thickness.
I put the artic silver thermal compound on the circuit for increasing heatproof.
I read the Taobao description, seems like the threads on the "guang bei" or reflector is to hold the reflector, it holds the reflector there... The LEDs MBPCB is thermal adhered to the black plate with the central screw as you can see there.
I'd like to say that don't use the light for over 5 mimutes on high mode,
the light body get hot quicky as indicated on the cnqualitygoods website.
Although I put the thermal compound on the circuit for heatproof, I use
the torch on high mode within 5 minutes because of the compact body.
Thank you 2100 and candle lamp. 2100, I think many of us are eagerly awaiting your review! Thanks in advance for doing it. I've been telling myself for half a year that I would wait til the fall before I buy my next light, but this Dry might make me get it a bit early.
2100, the "black plate": is it part of the head, or is it a separate plate that's screwed into the head somehow? if it's part of the head (like the rev.0 skyray 3800), that would be good. I wonder why the designer didn't include more heat-sinking fins on this Dry light though.
DRY Neutral White 5A3, about 2.1A drive 3-cells with 4-mode driver. (I am asking Ric to see if he can send me the 3-mode direct drive, while I get the CW version from him)
Sky Ray 3800, 2.55A drive fully regulated with 2-cells.
Thanks for the pictures, 2100. The colour of the NW looks nice.
Told you so. This is esp so for farther objects whereby the bluish 7300k (higher drive levels) of a good T6 bin makes things really pale, due to the fact that it is high CCT but low intensity. It is good indoors whereby you can blast and catch the reflected light off walls/ceilings.
Actually warm white would really look nice at about 0.7A drive levels reflected off the ceiling in a room. Followed by NW. Cold white needs to be OMG FULL BLAST. This is how our brains are wired.
I'm waiting for Ric's email whether he can send me the 3-mode 4A DD driver so that i can change out and report back.
Hi, folks!
I posted it already on ze German flashlight forum. I got the empty host and built it together with thick 1,4mm wires and Mundorf Silver/Gold solder - it contains 3,8% silver and 0,4% gold and is a pretty good conductor.
It draws 6,5 Ampere from fully charged Sanyos and still 5 Ampere at 4V.
Here are some pictures of my version, of this light:
Here are the beamshots:
Here you can find some more pictures and informations about the 26650-light: click
Regards,
Vinz
Vinz is your light neutral white?
TY for the pictures!
No, it's 1C (6000-6500k), cool white. But it looks perfectly white with these reflectors, no blue hue in the spill, even at 6 amps.
6A to each emitter?!one!?
Vinz thanks for the pix and contribution!
Nice to see that the surface where you put the MBPCBs is shiny. This confirms that this "head" is the same as the Sky Ray SR3800 revision 0 (if you know what we are talking about). I posted Dasfriek's shot of the SR3800 rev 0. The thickness looks good too, looks to me at least 2mm possibly 3mm. You guys are lucky to be living in cold countries! (the colder the better preferably with wind)
Agenthex, of course its 6.5A to each emitter. He put it as "15A", 3 x 5A. It would be interesting if Vinz can get some IR temp readings direct into the emitters (preferably use a high DS spot ratio model like at least 15:1 close-up) and also direct lux readings.
I'm sure you've seen the destructive tests, too. 10deg isn't going to save you.
Wow! It's awesome.
Your DRY 3XM-L can have a match with Fenix TK70 and maybe win.