I’ve been working [very slowly] on pimping out a few of of Enlan knives. One stumbling block has been the tiny metric fasteners used to secure the scales. I’ve read plenty of threads suggesting a micro-torch or lighter but I’ve been hesitant to apply flame near the G10 or micarta scales. So I figured out an easy-out method.
What you’ll need: top quality Torx drivers [most Enlans use a T6 size], good needle-nose pliers [add tape to the tips to avoid scratches] and…. a 40W or higher soldering iron.
Just apply the hot iron to the stand-off for 30 second, then grip the stand-off and gently work the fastener back-and-forth. Re-apply heat and keep working the fastener. After 3 or 4 times the locker will soften and you can back-off the screw.
If the screws are not against the scales you can apply the heat directly to the screw head, then work it back-and-forth.
No burn marks, no melted/scortched or burning scales.
Hi Gurthang.
You said you were removing the scales on Enlan knives. Have you found anything to remove the triangle pivot screws, I can manage the three holed ones easily but short of buying a drill chuck or the correct tool the triangle ones have defeated me.
I’m thinking of drilling three holes in mine then using the collet end of two drills and a lever to undo them.
I have no working soldering iron at the moment so I’ll be using the “jet” lighter again, the pen style of mini blow-lamp also works well.
As for the pimping, those slots in the scales on the EL-01 and EM-01 look ripe for filling with Epoxy resin and V10 Ultra Green GITD powder mixed in.
What I used was a hardened steel roll pin, 5/16” I think. The advantage of a roll pin is it has a lengthwise slot that fits one of the “delta” tangs. You can pick up roll pins at most well stocked hardware stores, just bring your EL-01 w/ you to find the correct size. Now you need to cut two more thin slots to grip the pivot screw. I used small rift files to cut the slots but you could do it much faster w/ a thin cutting wheel in a Dremel tool. What I did was put ink on the pivot screw’s three tangs, then press the roll pin onto the screw. The ink will mark where to make your cuts.
Once I had the cuts I took a cheap screwdriver, cut off the blade, then drove it into the roll pin’s uncut end. Presto! You have a nice pivot adjustment driver.
If you want to make a pocket version you’ll have to heat up the uncut pin end to soften the steel so you can drill a 1/8” hole. Then another trip to the hardware store for a 1/8” quik-clip pin [the type you seen on garden carts]. Drill through the slot and out the opposite side of the roll pin. The quik-clip pin gives you the leverage to adjust the pivot and when you’re done just pull the quik-clip pin from the hole and slip it inside the roll pin
I’ll see if I have upload pics of the adjuster. If so I’ll post ’em, makes the whole concept easier.
BTW, I’m making some home-brew G10, still working on the correct color. I can get a nice dark red and a funky brown. The latest experiment netted me a “clotted blood red” color, a mix of the red and black dyes. Imagine an EL-01 w/ textured scales the color of a big shiny scab…… I’m still experimenting.
BTW, I’m making some home-brew G10, still working on the correct color. I can get a nice dark red and a funky brown. The latest experiment netted me a “clotted blood red” color, a mix of the red and black dyes. Imagine an EL-01 w/ textured scales the color of a big shiny scab…… I’m still experimenting.
I already have 2 with that colour, well nearly, I think they called them Rosewood scales.
I worked out a way of turning the pivots on the Enlan/Bee models with the three holes, the smallest drill supplied with the Dremels is 1.6mm about the same size as the holes. I’ve just ordered a box of ten for £3. With an automatic centre punch to mark for the holes, I’m going to drill three holes - one in each dip in the triangle. A lever of some sort then turns the pivot screw.
I have one EL-04MCT that I Dremel’d a slot in and it doesn’t look as nice as the rest of the knife.
I like the idea of the roll pin though.
I would have a go at making Micarta myself but I live in a small flat and the fumes can be overpowering.
I’ve starting to get into UV and glow in the dark, a good 30minute epoxy resin and some glow powder and I can be seen at night no problem, it sticks well you know.
Go to a local marine supply dealer for epoxy. The stuff we use at work is from 3M or Kellog Marine. The marine stuff is more $$$ but it way better than the cheap stuff found in regular hardware or big-box retailers.
I’ve been subscribed to tuffthumbs channel for a couple of years, good to see him getting on so well, Gavko and John Grimsmo are a couple of my subscriptions, and of course SrJoben, his blade etching is very good.
Some of tuffthumbz pimp jobs are amazing as are his tannics and toads.
I subscribe to the emails sent out from Gearbastion Some excellent makers.
Like the rest, out of my league, financially ans talent wise.
Talking of talent I found this site based on Opinels , they’re a design classic but what people do to them is brilliant.
Thanks for the tip about marine supply dealers, I’m only using a small amount at the moment but it’s always good to know.
I should have guessed that you’d know of Tuff Knives. His Tanics and Toads are really nice but not quite what I prefer shape-wise. The price is WAY above what I could pay. The Opinel custom carved knives are wonderful. I’ve read that they are really top quality for not a lot of $$$.
