EDC AA/14500 light

I agree with the others on the Solarstorm SC01.
If you don’t mind the PWN on the lower modes, its a great little light on both a AA or 14500 for the price, ( one of my favorite EDC lights along side the more expensive Olight S15. I have a couple of them, and my current EDC in my jacket pocket is a SC01 with a Nichia 219B mod, and the other is on my desk with a XM-L2 4C emitter.

My sk68 is shining really really dim (much less than moon mode).

I don’t really have a budget as I want it to be my go to light.
I found out that bigger lights like the 18650 are hardly every put to use because of their size.

Preferably the light should have some modes ranging from very low to turbo with memory.
Neutral tint.

I was wondering as well if their are lights that turn on with a clicky but where you can choose the mode by turning.
So that you can change mode even when the light is off.

I might buy another sk68 as well on top of a new light :).

Thx for all your respons so far!

Zebralight SC52 L2 is the way to go if you don't mind spending around $60. I have the original and just recently purchased the newer L2 version. I couldn't be happier...

zebralight sc52 l2 total package
sunwayman v11R magnetic ring
sunwayman c15a/jetbeam rrt01 interface

seem most interesting lights so far.

Anyone who ones multiple of them and how they compare?

I think I might buy myself a sunwayman V11R with AA extender, although i could still go for the zebralight sc52.

Any idea where I can buy the most recent neutral white version?
Normally I would buy from fasttech but theirs doesn’t mention being neutral.

SC52 if the money is no issue. After a year of SK68 clones, I am permanently switched for EDC to a 1x AAA Olight i3s, but I still have a few 3 to 5 mode SK68 clones with 14500’s that I use for tasks larger than the i3s, they just don’t live in my pocket. I am planning on grabbing one of the dealmetric $8 lights for larger stuff but I think I have an older clone of the 502b already, its just too big for me to use regularly.

IMHO at least a high and medium, if not a low are essential when using a SK68 clone with a 14500 due to heat issues and rarely needing that bright of a light.

I have an olight I3s eos atm I use as EDC.

These are what I have that fully support AAs and 14500s with sub-lumen modes. No Magnetic Ring lights for me due to efficiency losses.

Is the sideswitch on the SC01 stiff enough to avoid accidental activations
when carried in a pocket?
Have not had good luck with “pants pocket EDC’ing” side clicky lights.

For someone with enough flashlights, there is no need to accept both voltages. I do like low modes.

Sc01 is a nice light if you get a good tint . I bought two and one is the best 3c I've ever seen ...output is great But the little button is a pain to be fumbling with . I like a D-10,a d25A ti, or a tank 566 nichia mod. Small lights with a side button just feel odd to me.

Not sure if you’re in the US but if so I can do an emitter swap for you, within an hour of receiving mine I swapped it to S6 7D3 (personal favorite tint, 90+ CRI 2900k) but decided someone that does what I do for a living (owns a flashlight business) needs to have a brighter flashlight in their pocket that the S6 output bin offered so I ended up swapping it back to T4 3C and I absolutely love it.

If you’re interested I can swap it to whatever tint you like, you can even have it delivered directly to me to save on shipping one way.

I’ve pretty much owned every light in this thread and the V11R has the major advantage over all the others in that its the only one that can accept 7 different cells (CR123 primary, 16340 li-ion, AA NiMH, L91, 14500 li-ion, 14505 primary, Alkaline)

Oh and in an absolute emergency you can even run in on a AAA/10440!*
*(with a little ingenuity and constructive use of a soda / beer can tab and a folded business card)

forgot another thing, I’m waiting on some 17500’s, then those will be my preferred cells (100mAh)! In short the V11R beats every other light I’ve ever seen in the range of cells it can accept. Hell with 2 bored extensions you could run a 17650 for 2200mAh if you wanted

A Quark or Peak Logan will run even more batteries/configs… And in a real pinch, for much, much longer runtime (due to the overhead drain of the SWM magnetic ring).

Just say’n :wink:

Yes with multiple battery tubes (each for the price of 3-5 spare cells), the v11r only needs one single extension (<$10) to run all those options.

And who cares about runtime, were all flashaholic’s. I have spare batteries and a charger in every vehicle and usually even carry a spare on my person when leaving the house (not to mention the V11r is only my backup light, I always have my RGBW_Clicky on my belt).

Just say’n.

All three lights need one extra component to run the range of cells mentioned - you got me on the $5-$10 cost savings though. Guess we are all different, efficiency and runtime are of top priorities for me, especially with these small single cell EDC lights - makes me feel comfortable walking out of the house with a half depleted batt., and no spares. I would also argue that finite batt. capacity it’s one of the primary reasons most flashlights are multi-mode, while most household lights are single-mode.

That should be a good tint, but am I confused or why is the brightness bin so low? It seems that I have seen better listed.

Oh no, the output with T4 3C is great, it’s the S6 7D3 that’s low (which is expected @ 2900k and 90+ CRI).

You are right. I see only two bins higher. http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_61&product_id=73

People already mentioned most of the good AA lights, but a couple more worth looking at are the L3 Illuminations L10-219 and the EagleTac D25A NW. Neither is good with Li-Ion batteries, but they’re both great on Eneloops. Small, wide range of output, waterproof, well made. Oh, and the Thrunite T10S too. Also AA-only, but good.

My favorite medium sized light is now my newly modified SK-58. It has a Nichia 219B neutral white high CRI LED and the components of a Qlite driver on a BLF SK-68 15 mm. board, with moonlight mode group selected and four 7135s. The 15 mm. driver makes room to make thermal contact between the pill and the thick battery tube (where the fins are on an SK-68). (See sk68 clone: longitudinal section) To bridge the gap, with limited tools and materials, I twisted stranded copper wire in a loop, saturated it with solder and shaped it to fit snugly in the space. It draws 1.8 A on high, which seems enough for the little Nichia and low enough not to need the extra metal and fins of an SK-68.