Yeah, you are right. I just wrote too fast 
I’ve bunch of Eneloops/ LADDA’s and barely use alkalines, just for remote 
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good point… which AA headlamp meets the mechanical switch criteria…
or, is the parasitic drain low enough on the Skilhunt H150.
Zebralights have electronic switches but very low parasitic drain. I just cannot abide the UI. I feel the same about the H150…
I want Anduril UI
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I was the same!
I want AA/14500, dual fuel angle light with Anduril and ended with H150 because there is no Anduril dual fuel lights… Here as a bonus were great headband and external charging.
Maybe in near future someone will make it!
Agree the H150 has a lot of great features, including the headband.
It would be even greater if it would charge Eneloop, but I dont think that can happen… Too much risk that someone would try to charge an Alkaline…
Compare Emisar D2 runtime to Skilhunt H150, on LiIon, and Skilhunt on Eneloop:
D2 chart from this review
H150 chart from this review
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This should read…Always have idle current drain. So you need to recharge or replace batteries regularly… (though depending on the level of drain and cell capacity this could go out to months or years) or you have to use mechanical lockout to break the circuit.
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Update: my Sofirn SC21 Pro died.
When I plug in the USB-C cable to charger the LED glows green (blinking/breathing red would be charging, right). So I assume the 16340 Sofirn battery died.
I carried the lamp in my jacket so maybe the cold killed the 16340 battery?
With the plugged USB-C cable the light still works.
Any ideas on how I could test it further? Otherwise I would just send the lamp back to amazon.
So I guess my next lamp will be the Skilhunt H150 or H300?
Did you try a CR123 cell? I Know the CR123 cells are expensive but they available in many places.
green light means charged. to confirm that I would use a DMM to measure the voltage
Since the light works when plugged in, and since the battery says it is charged,
suggest you try cleaning off any excess lube on the end of the body tube, and inside the head where the body tube makes contact with the driver.
you can just use a paper towel to wipe off excess lube…
Are you using the stock button top battery, or are you trying some other battery?
fwiw, the SC21 Pro is not made to use CR123, if you try, the switch button will show Red, and the output will be limited to 15 lumens, because the light will think the battery is an almost empty LiIon.
SC21 Pro is not made to use CR123,
I was not aware of that.
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This is where I ended up as well. Though with 18650s being too big to EDC, it made me just jump to 21700s for non EDC flashlights, alongside dual fuel AA lights. Sometimes I just carry extra AAs for runtime especially for lightweight headlamps. And at least 18650s work in most 21700 lights, especially with some spacers
It’s unlikely that just carrying it in your jacket by itself killed it. Unless it was an extended period of time and the battery was near empty and constant use? Or in electronic lockout mode, that looks to drain a fair amount
As mentioned, measure the voltage, it could be too low, or have too high internal resistance. You are using the battery it came with and not an unprotected cell? I guess you could’ve just gotten a dud as well
fyi, the Sofirn SC21 Pro comes with an UnProtected battery.
Really? That’s interesting since reviews state there is no low voltage protection. Though I’m seeing that Sofirn claims there is LVP…
where did you see that?
Anduril has LVP for LiIon…
Oh doh, I was looking at non-pro reviews. Does the pro have a relatively high drain aux LED that could be on?
The SC21 Pro ships w the Aux light on the switch button set to Low. It is estimated to last about 10 months iirc