Nicely done comfychair.
So, here's a pic of everything laid out on one side of a possible SRK driver. DrJones programmed MCU, hence the SW1 for the momentary switch.
Right? Wrong? Not enough info?
Looks really good to me.
Close...
Additions in red.The extra LED- points are needed, else the small trace will be a restriction. Need to break that into as many smaller pieces as you can.
The red circle at the top is a problem - all the LED current has to go through that tiny choke point on that very long, very skinny trace for the middle pin/ground for the 7135s. That may be enough to kill the rest of the rather elegant layout. :(
edit: R1 & R2 need to swap places, R2 is the one that connects to ground.
Could this possably be an answer to traces that are too light,
It means soldering r000 as bridges but what is a bit more soldering, this way both the power traces can be wide and the signal trace doesn’t need to be heavy.
I realise that these are in line, but a circle is no different, just bend it 
Cheers David
Basically, I just wanted to see if I could lay it all out on one side, where I could understand it. I didn’t bother to make sections for multiple LEDs and I should have. Thanks for the corrections, I still don’t understand circuitry, but I can somewhat understand placement… I doubt I will ever get anywhere with it. I have seen a bunch of homemade attempts at etching pcb board and most of it looked very “homemade”, so I don’t know if I will ever get past the “I wish” stage, but thanks all, for the help with it. I just would like to be able to make a board, instead of all this master slave crap all the time.
Hey, as far as I’m concerned, just getting the driver circuitry exposed so cleanly is a major milestone! Nice work Justin, very interesting concept that most anyone could do this. NOT!
So, I'm still playing with it. This is based on a 45mm driver diameter. I'm just trying to figure out how wide a ring could be made for the center pad. It's not cut into sections or anything, just looking at how wide I can go with the ground ring. Too close between rings and it would never etch that way, but I can adjust that. I think if the ring was cut into sections, that 8 chips on that setup, would take the amps ok. I mean, we use 22 ga wire for leads and copper clad ought to handle 8 chips at that width, yes? no?
Yes, but the PCB traces are so thin. It takes much more width to get the equivalent current carrying capacity. The overall length is a killer too.
Flip the 7135s around so the LED- pin in on the inside, that'll give you room to make that critical trace wider, there's plenty of unused space in the middle.
The post a few up the page was a clever idea, about using a jumper to cross over the exposed PWM trace to boost the long/skinny middle ground trace. One jumper for every 4 7135s should be enough. Could be arranged like:
7135 7135 jumper 7135 7135 LED- 7135 7135 jumper 7135 7135 [repeat for next section for next LED]
Well, heck… when it comes to that, why not just solder wire over top of the copper and put the chips on top of the wire. Plenty of capacity there. Just strip silver plated wire, flatten it and solder it on. Lay the chips on top reheat and there ya go. I don’t know, probably easier to just keep doing the master slave thing.
You have a good idea here OL that would work with existing board programs. Others have come up with high chip count pcb’s but nothing is readily available yet. Texaspyro’s board shows great promise but yours is good too. It took me 1 1/2 hours to swap the parts from a 105C onto a 10mm board and the resistors were the hardest part. With practice and on a roomier one sided board that should drop at least down to 45 minutes so why not. The concentric thing is nice in that the board might be resized as needed(similar to PilotPtk’s 16mm Sinkpad design). Even a small run of boards would still be cheap and given the thousands of reads TP’s thread is getting you can probably get someone to do he files for you. If its open sourced then you need not become a clearing house, just let group buys be done whenever from wherever by whomever so the files go round the world instead of the boards. You do so many mods that although you could etch boards as needed having them already to go would leave more time for the good stuff.
Yes, the reason I even thought of it, was because I do so many odd mods and with the lights that have the bigger drivers, it would be nice to just replace the stock one with one that fit, rather than fitting NANJG drivers into the pocket. I didn't really think about the thickness of the copper clad boards. I know it's copper film, but I thought it was fairly thick. The chips could be turned 90 degrees, so that the back tabs faced out towards the outside of the driver and use a very wide ring, but that still doesn't do anything for the other legs Nd then it would have to be multi layer, since the other legs would have to cross each other at some point.
When I think about it, the stock NANJG drivers are not really optimum for amperage and then adding chips to them is really useless, even though I do it, it shouldn't be done that way. They also need much bigger traces.
Aw come on, I like the design, it just needs some tweaks, minor ones at that. (It'll also need a whole bunch of vias to bring the BAT+ through from the other side, for the same reasons - just one will be a bottleneck.) I'm not a PCB guy, never even done one, I'm sure when you go forward and get with some of the folks who know how to the actual layout files, they will spot things I have missed that need to be changed/adjusted/improved. Doesn't at all mean it's unworkable or a bad idea that never should have been.
Troubleshooting is what I've done my whole life, it's just how my brain is built. You show me a broken thing and I'll tell you what's wrong with it. But of course, that leads people to say things like 'why are you always so negative??'... :~
Why are you always so negative? Ha!
vias? I was just going to drill a hole and put in a piece of 14ga copper wire through and solder to both sides, to make the connection.
Either Texaspyro or PilotPtk did a board with the chips on edge and the pins in holes. That would get a lot more chips onto a smaller board and put the ground trace on the back side of the board, no jumpers.
KISS! I like it 
I like that you pick it apart. I don’t have a problem with that. I just tend to smart off whenever the opportunity presents itself.
That is a good thing you've got going here OL. I do not even have a King/Kung/Securiding?? light but I might get one if there is a proper driver for it like this or one of the other designs that are slowly coming to the surface around here. And I really like the idea of the three concentric traces for the chips. How many do you think you can fit if it is made like what you have showed here so far??
Wrong… R1/R2 not wired properly.
Electronics Guys - Questions answered - Still playin round with it
8 per led without stacking, more with stacking.