Maybe it's closer, I don't know for sure yet.
Of course, if I put it down to scale...
the paths are very thin and tiny.
My SRK driver has the AMC7135 chips going the other way (PWM ring on the outside). That puts the LED output rin on the inside where it can be made fatter.
I know, I know, but I’m dying of old age waiting for that driver and PilotPTK’s driver that never made it either.
I know there’s lots of problems for you guys, with making small runs of drivers, but I’ve got to do something or give up and I hate to give up.
Room for another ring of chips? Looks like close to 30mm in the center(enough for maybe 18 chips 6-7A). That would give you 2 diameter options from 1 layout. Will the wider ground tab clear the led- and pwm traces?
Yes, but then I have to have the input from the MCU cross over/under somewhere (3 times, 4 times, etc.)… Well, OK, actually it has to cross over one time right? As long as the led- is divided, the input from the MCU can be all one trace, right?
So I can run it inside, but the closer I get to center, the smaller the circle and right now 24 chips will Barely fit end to end. Closer to center, will not allow for 24 of them. I guess I could just plan on stacking up chips, but I really hate to do that because they get so hot so fast, they fall out right away and the gain is lost when the amperage drops off right away.
It's always 10# of ... in a 5# box with this flashlight stuff... gets depressing.
One of the problems I have not worked on yet, is that on the screen, there’s room between, but when printing it out, the ink bleeds. Now, I’m not using the laser printer yet. I have to do that at work, but the inkjet does not give clean lines. Once I think I have a pattern, I will take the file to work and try to print out there and see.
Are you going to print a full page of board images? The bleed lines may not be a problem as the etchant may cut through them anyway if they are thin enough.
Once I find something that I feel is a working proposition, then I will print a full sheet. I also have to figure out which board to use. Of course, I need double sided, but as the the thickness and also the thickness of the copper. I would imagine 2oz would be much better for pulling the amps, but it will have to etch longer and that might be an issue. I have a piece from radio shack. I imagine it’s 1oz and I can play around with that. Anyone want to suggest board thickness?
TP how thick are your boards?
Will it have to support/resist spring pressure from the battery side? How thick is the original SRK board?
My skyray kung board measure .085” or 2.16mm. 
It replaces the original, so it would have to resist the same spring pressure. I think the thickness varies in all the SRK clones, but the thickest double sided pcb board I find is 1.57mm. Unfortunately, that appears to be only 1oz clad.
The standard circuit board thickness is 1/16”
Newest Version
Newest version showing the new paths for the 7135 chips and the brown & gold is for the other side of the driver, for battery + ring and ground ring. This would be with the chips facing the other direction. Now I will try to size the rest of the components correctly and see how it comes out.
I think this might work. At least I am going to try to burn one on a piece of pcb and see.
That is probably closer to normal size.
Anyhow, it's off to work!
Looking good, my first couple (and only) attempts at acid etching didn’t go well.
Just a suggestion on the ground trace, you could fatten up the backside ground ring enough so that it comes underneath the topside ground ring. Then, if there’s room, you could space some via’s (i.e. your wire rivets) around and gain a lot of valuable trace area. The micro could be dropped down further to gain a little more trace spacing?
The open area I left is for the possibility of a fourth set of 7135 chips, for a four up SRK. I thought about the ground ring thing, but my concern is getting too close to the positive ring on the battery side. Just makes me nervous when the ground ring is close up to the positive.
Make the pads for the ATTINY long enough to accommodate the ATTINY85… that package is .050” wider than the TINY13
Also you might want to look into downloading the freeware version of the Eagle PC board layout program. There is a bit of a learning curve for the program, but there are lots of online tutorials (heck, if Scaru can do it, so can you J) ). You can send the EAGLE .BRD files directly to places like OSHPARK.COM and get boards made quickly and cheaply.
You can layout a board without having to use the schematic editor, but going through a schematic has lots of benefits.
The pattern copied onto coated magazine paper, with a laser printer
The components on a plain paper inkjet copy.
I don't know if I will get to any more or not. I think it's sort of futile at the moment. I may try "ironing" one onto a board and etch it, just to say I did it.
DId you mirror the image? You need to in order to get it to come out OK when you iron it on.