The previous tests were integrated or in TIR and still above BBL. SMO reflector will be worse than that even with respect to Duv so I wouldnt plan on it.
SKV89, at 350ma though? Never seen an SST20 thats close to BBL @ 350ma.
â0.0033 at 5A is nice. Got to start slicing some SST20s myself, i love the throw, hate the green.
Care you share technique? Ive been quite happy with my sanding skills on the LH351D recently. Turns a meh LED into something unique and quite amazing. I understand its far from prefered by most though.
Ive got an ROT66 i would love to slice the 12 SST20s, seems like quite the job! Get some great throw and nice tint!
On my Fireflies E07 with FA3 tint, I measure â0.0002 at 4018K at about 30 lumens
Fair enough. Maybe i havent seen the FA3. My ROT66 is only a few months old, grrr.
Ive had some single emitter light from Sofirn that were pretty good, ive actually got 7-8 SST20 4000k emitters on order from them, fingers crossed they are FA3.
A TIR keeps the duv lower than a reflector. In my experience you must start with a very rosy led to keep the tint under the BBL when measured in the hotspot of a reflector. And the purple AR coating likely does not help either, works as a +green filter.
I did measure the tint before slicing but forgot to save it as a file, CCT was 3910K and the duv in the hotspot of the KR1 was clearly above the BBL, like +0.0025-ish
Nice to hear Iâm not the only one 
. A throwy high CRI light in (close to) EDC size was missing in my collection. It makes walking in the dark outside in nature following a trail so much more pleasant than a cold light.
I use a series of 4 steel washers going from thick to thin and slice the dome bit by bit with a (oldschool Wilkinson) razorblade. The washers fit between the solder blobs of a 20mm board but for a 16mm board I need to remove all the solder to fit the washers flat on the board. Brass washers would actually be better for keeping the blade sharp. The thinnest washer was sanded to exactly the right thickness to get the slice right above the phosfor layer. The led must be reflowed flat on the board and the angle that you keep the blade at during the slice makes a difference too. I actually made the washer set for the LH351D (I have several lights with shaved LH351D leds that have wonderful tint and CRI) but it was almost correct for the SST-20 too (had to keep the blade flatter than with the LH351D during the last slice to clear the bond wires of the SST-20). I find that the remaining surface need not be perfect for a great result, it is not critical and I do not bother sanding it anymore.
It would be quite the challenge to slice 12 of them without chopping any bond wires. Requires closely monitoring the process!
Great minds think alike. I was actually surprised at how compact the KR1 is. I was worried it might be too much larger than the D4V2. Well actually it is larger but itâs manageable for me.
Hello
My KR is super flashlight, I love it very much.
Only one question. Is it normal that flashlight starts working when tail cap is srew last half of mm.
Is this normal?
Thank you
Kind regards
Yes that is normal.
Because of the tube in tube system.
I noticed that too yesterday: with tail mechanically locked out the main connection for batt-minus to driver is blocked, but when then the switch is kept pushed down, a weird flashing/ramping sequence starts (and stops again after a few seconds) with the current needed apparently going via the switch and inner tube.
I noticed that too yesterday: with tail mechanically locked out the main connection for batt-minus to driver is blocked, but when then the switch is kept pushed down, a weird flashing/ramping sequence starts (and stops again after a few seconds) with the current needed apparently going via the switch and inner tube.
(Btw the FW3A can not do this because when unscrewing the tail (or head), the inner tube is disconnected together with the outer tube)
Flashing like the AndĂșril factory reset? Iâve reset my FW3A by loosening the tailcap, holding the button then tightening the tailcap and it starts this warning flashing/ramping sequence before it resets.
Ah, that is what it is. But it does that without the tailcap tightening so apparently only inner tube connection is needed for the reset.
Hank, are those 16-LED mules almost ready? My wallet is excited to lose some weight.
See post #1814:
Valynor
To those interested in the KR4 16x E21A mule:
itâs available now if you ask via email (thanks, Hank!)
price is +$20 over the standard KR4 E21A
about ~3000 Lumens max (probably not for very long 
)
features a 7.5A constant current driver
Itâs the factory reset. The inner tube makes contact first and when the button is pressed, the microcontroller gets power. When the button is pressed while the microcontroller powers up, it goes into factory reset mode.
Hi everyone! I have a question about KR1. The reflector is not fixed and is loose. I unscrew the bezel and saw that the reflector is below the edge of the body, when I twist the bezel with glass, it does not press against the reflector and it moves freely. I donât think it should be like that.
The KR1/KR4 can actually do this with the outer tube completely removed. It requires holding the parts pretty carefully since thereâs no outer tube to hold them in place, but it can actually turn on as long as the button is held down. The power flows through the button and along the switch tube, delivering a small amount of current.
Because of this, I wasnât sure which would be a better response to âbutton held during boot-upâ:
- Factory reset, like on other lights
- Boot into lockout mode
So I went with the first option. Itâs more consistent with other lights, avoids the need for using 13H to reset, lets the user know the light is (sort of) working, and when people send in support requests about it, itâs very easy to recognize and fix.
The cost is that âloosen tailcap to lock lightâ doesnât work. But it kinda doesnât work anyway, since it would only be pretending to not have power.
Thanks for explaining everyone and TK.
One downside is that a factory reset happens easily unintended while fiddling, but that is not the end of the world
Whatâs the coupon code to get a discount?
There are none. Hank does not waste time with coupons or group buys, prices are always fair.