Emisar D4S review

I can confirm 5000K is green on regulated (low-medium) brightness but pure white on unregulated (high-turbo) levels. Not Olight levels of green but still too green for me. Personally, I find this is more noticeable on the D4S as I use regulated brightness more often than unregulated. As the D4S has 3x7135 it has a lot more useful regulated light versus 1x7135, such as the D1 and D4, but for the 5000Ks this means I see the green tint more than I’d like :frowning: . Guess I need to use it on full whack the entire time until I swap out the emitters! :smiley:

Edit: Worth mentioning that I may have just lost out on the tint lottery and everyone else’s 5000Ks are perfectly white.

If you want stepping instead of ramping, click 3 times while the light is on. That switches between steps and smooth ramping.

Mine is the same but outdoor its not that bad in my opinion. On turbo its more white then my 5000k blf q8 on turbo.

At what amp draw and regulated vs unregulated do they test to find the color of a led?

I got mine today. It’s an SSD20 4000k w/red aux LED’s. I’m very happy with the tint. Thanks, Hank for the fast shipping!

I wish the D4 had the lanyard hole on the tail cap like the D4s. That is sweet, but I think that light would be to large for pocket carry.

I can only hope someday they will come out with a Emisar D4 V2. That has magnet in tail cap, lanyard hole like D4s and recessed switch so I can pocket carry without lockout.

EDIT. And a 1-3+FET driver.

Guy can dream.

Do people actually use lanyards? :slight_smile:

Personally I’d like to see something between the D1 and D4… like the FW3A if that ever comes out :laughing:

Not usually the provided lanyard. I use small loop for extracting, and hanging.

As of a few seconds ago we are 27,653 members strong. You can bet there are a very wide number of ways flashlights get used among the BLF family. :wink:

I think there is a bit of a lottery, but it might be one that changes as Emisar goes through different reels of 219C’s.

My 219C Emisair looks very white in most situations, regardless of output. The main exception is when I compared it to a light with the 219B emitter. Then it looks green.

Ah, to clarify I was talking about the SST-20 5000K.

Excellent, thank you.

Any views on the 25A versus 32A battery? I don’t really know enough about batteries to know what’s best for the Emisar. I do like the company I buy from though, their dedication to battery safety on high drain devices like powerful vape mods is why I use them.

Is there a pocket clip for the d4s yet? the ring kind like the Fw3a clip…

You mean, the ring kind like the imaginary FW3A?

Good luck with that. They made prototype parts for the prototype light, not like those are off the shelf readily available items and of course, not in production yet on the Fritz light so time will tell if that clip becomes available.

You could make it from sheet Titanium and heat it up to get the bend on it… :wink:

Any idea if the sst-20 6500k is green on low levels ?

If I wanted the D4S to be floody with minimal or no hot spot, what would people recommend?

1) Which led & tint? I was thinking one of these…

- Neutral White - XP-L HD V6 3D, 5000K

  • Neutral White - Nichia 219CT 90CRI, 5000K

2) Should I change the optics to this? Or is there another option? Or should LED above be enough?
price + shipping = ~$13 for US :frowning:


Here is what I posted a while back when trying different optics in my DS4

@alchemi That posting is super helpful. Thanks.

I was wondering if “floody” could be achieved by just using either of these led:

- Neutral White – XP-L HD V6 3D, 5000K

  • Neutral White – Nichia 219CT 90CRI, 5000K

… or would changing to the “2288 Angie-M 37 degree” be the only way to get a good flood?

Just for fun.

My Emisar D4S beam shot on the ceiling. I was surprised to see this — what did I do to my D4S to get this pattern? I do use a wide angle Ledil Angie optic, but I don’t think this is a main cause…

see 2nd pic here for answer: New member from London, getting a first 18650

You cook your optic with a roll of toilet paper? :stuck_out_tongue:

I just attempted to flash the Anduril onto my D4. This was my first attempt ever at flashing a driver on a flashlight so I don’t really know what I’m doing.


When I tried to run the app initially it seemed to work fine. typing AVRdude at the command prompt displayed the list of stuff AVRdude can do. But when I tried to flash an ATiny85 I got a message about USBasp not being detected or something like that.

After a few attempts at this, the result changed. Instead when I tried to run the command line for AVRdude a pop-up window appeared saying “this App can’t run on your PC”. Along with a similar message at the command line prompt.

I’m running Windows 10.

Need a very detailed step-by-step guide for dummies on how to get this thing working on Windows 10. :weary:

And what’s worse… now that I read up on some of the 1-star reviews of AVRdude, people are complaining that the app messed with their system and broke many programs. GAAAAH! I hope this didn’t happen to me. I have no idea if that happened. I sure hope not. AVRdude seemed to work at first from the command line then abruptly stopped working.

Are there any safer alternative programs to AVRdude for flashing the ATiny?