You would still have the two options, 21700 and 26650
I was going to buy the E07 because it works with 21700 and I try to keep my gear as simple as possible so I don't want to have 20 different battery sizes (only 18650 and 21700), but decided for the D4S because:
-it's throwier
-has less leds, (I don't need 7 leds in a light that barely sustains 800-900lm)
-has better build quality (emisar is a sure bet)
I'm sure there are a lot of people that choose the E07 instead of the D4S because of the battery size
A 21700 tube would also allow the use of a pocket clip
Since we all probably have 18650s around it’s worth noting that the D4’s magnetic tailcap makes using 18650s casually quite easy. Otherwise, a simple spacer (rolled up paper, convenient-sized PVC, something 3D printed) will allow an 18650 to snugly slot in. Personally, I don’t need the runtime that a 26650 offers over an 18650 nor does the better current that high-rate 26650s offer matter that much to me. Nonetheless I opted for the pack-in 26650 that intl-outdoor offers since it will work in my chargers without much difficulty.
All other things being equal, fewer LEDs is good for throw because more optic per LED can be used while more LEDs will be driven at lower currents thus be more efficient and generate more light within a given power envelope.
I recall a D4S pocket clip prototype, but I’ve slept since then and that’s a lot of girth to manage.
Shadow is telling me to throw something, anything… a log or a rock or a ball or his bowl… anything! He wants to fetch something for a little while then fight me over it for a while more…
the flashlight doesn’t turn on at all anymore, no aux or any flashing.
I followed these instructions:
and it did the erase and rewrite. then it warned me that the byte 0x0000 didn’t match and that the fuse was set, something e0 and if i wanted to rewrite the fuse. I put Y and it never completed.
Now it doesn’t turn on do I have to order a new one and does anybody want to buy my brand new bricked d4s (sst20 3000k)
I can’t seem to get it to connect again. I’m not sure if it is the usb or connector wires I have or if it is the unit itself not being recognized because it is fried.
I can’t turn on the flashlight nor does it show any signs of life otherwise
It’s probably bricked, and won’t work until after being physically removed from the driver board, reflashed with a high-voltage programmer, and soldered back on.
If you had said “no” to the fuse change, it would probably be recoverable… but a bad fuse value can’t be fixed with any easy methods.
You have done the hard part, getting setup for flashing. Can’t you just pop a few bucks to mouser and get some backup attinys? then you just desolder and replace with a new one already flashed.
I just received another D4S and flashed it with the anduril.2018-08-22.EMISAR_D4S hex file. The flash was successful, but several of the functions no longer work (no access to the aux LEDs, can’t switch between step and smooth modes, etc.). I used this same flash procedure on another D4S several months ago and it worked perfectly. Is there another hex file that I should be using now or is there something else that I should be doing ?
No, the effect is not caused by PWM. LED tint simply changes at different power levels, naturally. It’s like how fire changes from red to yellow to white depending on the temperature.
PWM actually reduces the effect. It runs the LED at a single power level, turning it on and off rapidly to change the apparent brightness without changing the tint. The tint change effect is worse on constant current drivers like the led4power drivers and the Meteor. In particular, lower levels on a constant current driver typically have even worse tint. They are more efficient at low levels, but also usually less white.
In the image above, PWM drivers like the D4S are the blue and green lines. The Meteor and led4power drivers are represented by the red line.
do I have to order a new one and does anybody want to buy my brand new bricked d4s (sst20 3000k)