I learned some knots on youtube and tied a lanyard on mine.
If you configure the SP36 to use "Muggle" mode be aware that while being used at the highest muggle light level, the SP36 will occasionally drop down to the lowest muggle light level unexpectedly.
Both of my SP36 lights exhibit this behavior even after using the thermal configuration option to calibrate the current temperature.
ToyKeeper describes the reason for this in post #196 below:
This only happens when in Muggle mode, right?
If so, I don’t really care, as I don’t see myself ever using it lol
Also top of ramp can be set to be turbo if you want.
How do you do that? I didn’t think the top of ramp could be changed from the default level of around 2000 lumens.
You will have to read the manual as I don’t remember off hand. Bottom and top of ramp can be set. You should also check your temperature calibration.
I have only experienced the "unexpected instant maximum ramp down" issue while using Muggle mode.
Muggle mode is quite beneficial for those using the SP36 who are not familiar with Anduril so they do not end up in the Stobes, Blinkies or Lockout mode.
Also be aware that while the SP36 uses a USB-C charging port, it charges most reliably with a USB-A to USB-C cable. Some clarifying information is in this thread:
Post #10 by forum user Phlogiston in the above thread describes a USB-C to USB-C cable configuration that should also work.
Wellp, the original (my preference) BLF Q8 is the classic, warmer and floodier than the Sofirn Q8, which is cooler and throwier. The DC7 is more akin to the Sofirn, but has built-in charging, which is a lot simpler to just plug’n’wait vs cracking it open, digging out a 4-bay charger, charging the cells, then reloading.
Problem is, the DC7 is discontinued or otherwise unavailable on Amazon anymore. UI is kind of a lobotomised Narsim, on/off, ramping up/down, 2click to brightest, click’n’hold for moonlight, and that’s pretty much all you need. Nothing fancy like battery level blinkouts or whatnot.
But, like the Q8, it’s a big donk. Extra cell, bigger diameter… yeah, it’s big.
So while the SP36 is smaller and easier to carry, it still has 3-cell capacity and will run hella-long… but it’s not nearly as bright as the spex say it should be. Disappointing, but you get that much more runtime. :laughing:
Shut up… seriously?
Will hafta try it…
That is from off. From on , 2 clicks gets you turbo.
“In-struc-tions”? Whut’s that?
But yeah, it works. :laughing:
I thought Narsim and Andouille both were 2click-to-turbo, not -ceiling.
Damn, everything else I got, 2click goes right to turbo, whether already on or off.
Even my ‘micro, when already at “turbo” (can’t really tell, as I’m using a middlin’ 14500, not high-drain), when ostensibly at turbo, another 2click goes to blinkies.
Ach…
Yep, that’s what the appeal was… and now is. :laughing:
Wellp, being that it’s a nightstand light and size won’t be that much of an issue, I think I’ll keep the DC7. 2click (vs 2click + 2click) to turbo is a lot easier to do.
Agreed … I had no idea that 2+2 = Turbo. Good to know. Well kept SP36 secrete.
I do appreciate my DC7 and keep it handy … great light all around.
Thanks for the info … 
Czech out the Teslacom Amazon.com , also discontinued. Its lanyard is one of those dog-harness types, no idea what they’re called or where to get ’em, but that’s a definite option for lights without a dedicated lanyard.
Scroll down about a third of the way for “Easy use with Lanyard” and loookit the pic.
I’ve considered set the top of ramp to turbo but the default setting is sustainable with Sofirn cells without getting ultra hot. So I leave it the way it came for now.
I don’t know if you folks have set the thermal configuration yet, but that could be a source of your brightness issues. My light being at 21 degrees C, the thermal check said it was at 39 degrees C.
Obviously that needed fixing, especially if stock thermal regulation kicks in at 30 degrees C.
It took me awhile to find the knot I used to tie a lanyard to my 36. It is called the constrictor knot and it is very easy to tie. Use a small diameter nylon rope.
According to the instructions included with the SP36, the stock thermal regulation kicks in at 45 degrees C. Below is a portion from the thermal configuration section of the instructions:
Congratulations on scoring a SP36 with this deal. I was very lucky to get one on the first day.
That "Onewheel" vehicle you are riding, in the video in your signature, is amazing. If I was younger I would have to check one of those out, but at my age I would also need to purchase an Ambulance as a back up vehicle if I had one of those.
I got my holster in yesterday. Fits the SP36 perfectly! Thanks a lot Sofirn for this awesome deal!
On the subject of the light, yes it’s set to kick in at 45C, but the calibration on mine was way off by 18C, so the thermal regulation would he kicking in WAY before it should. Almost immediately in some cases. It’s important to calibrate what temperature the light thinks it’s reading.
As for the Onewheel, yes it’s pretty great. Especially now, it’s a good thing to use to get around. There are people in NYC of all ages who ride them, older and younger. One of the group ride regulars is retired, I believe about 67, and rides thousands of miles on his. It is indeed risky, but there are ways to minimize the risk.
Anyway, take care!