RMM meant to say *16mm
I forgot thats why TIR is used.
Got it thanks
What exactly are your dreams? I don’t know of a 16mm triple optic anyways
I have a few s7’s and I want to make a SPARK SX5 a triple.
Although the recess in the spark is for a 16 mm mcpcb it looks like there’s plenty of room for a 20 mm triple Noctogon and Carclo optic since you would need to shim the pcb and optic forward to deal against the bezel anyway.
Yes thank you.
Wanted to spend about $20 and ended up spending about $70. After the Lumintop SD75 and now this, the wife is going to have me neutered for sure. :_(
Well, that doesn’t seem like a well thought out solution. 
Less interest in girls will just mean more time and money spent elsewhere, like flashlights! 
Order placed!! Since these are cheap and there’s no word on 90+ CRI release date I bought a couple more than I needed. You can’t go wrong with a nichia!
Curious thing though, my initial order was less than $30 and ended up at $90 when checking out…
The gauntlet is thrown…
From what I hear, you can make a bundle even just selling one, might be worth some marital negotiating. Besides, you could start a thread on light up, inductive charged false testes…. A 0D tint that you could crank up when you need attention from the wife, that tint is rather blue I understand…
...as Dale spends 15 hours straight getting a 219C dome sanded down to a verified 5 microns thickness. 
Maybe not 15 hours, it’s done. 
As it so happened, I had a Manker A6 sitting around in partial disassembly, I’d robbed the tail switch for my first lathe light. So I had to cut down an old Solarforce switch board and solder a small switch on it, then fix the fitment in the smaller A6 tail cap, but after all that and some sanding on the 20mm Noctigon I now have a special little A6 with the XP-G2 S4 2B emitters out of my Meteor.
I put a small #10 machine bolt through a 20mm triple mcpcb and spun it in my drill, cut it down on the belt sander til it fit in the A6. Then I turned the bezel down internally to allow the pill to thread further in and cut 5mm off it’s length. 
1552 lumens on the Triple XP-G2 S4 2B with a rested old Panasonic PD out of my battery box.
So much for “can’t”.
Edit: Since my 219C’s won’t be here til tomorrow, the XP-G2’s filled in for em… same mcpcb, a few minutes to exchange them.
Edit II: I polished the 10507 Optic back out and put an Samsung 30Q in it, also rested. How does 1990.6 lumens from an A6 sound?
Edit III: Is 11.42A too much to not have a spring bypass at the switch? This lil dude DO Get HOT!!
Edit IV: Improved ground path and switch spring through board bypass with the 30Q freshly charged nets a start value of 2473.65 lumens. In an A6. Insane.
Love it Dale! How long does it take before it gets uncomfortably hot? 15-20 seconds?
Splendid Sir Dale! 
Uh, well, about that… if you wrap the head up in your hand and turn it on in Turbo you can feel the heat rising in it at 5 seconds. 10 seconds is hot, 12 seconds I let go and turned it off. Did I mention insane?
Flew over my head,over the horizon,and gone!
Holy S**t! That’s amazing. I didn’t even know triple XP-G2s could put out so much light.
Well, in theory a triple XP-G2 should be capable of making some 3465 lumens, based on an X6 I just built that does 1155 lumens at 4.88 Amps. This one’s doing over 12A, 4A+ per emitter, so yeah they’re being pushed fairly hard in this little light.
Obviously, the lower 4 modes will be the primaries…
I just picked up an older driver I had in my stuff and crammed it in there, it’s one of the old BLF boards with the resistors, diode and cap on the battery contact side of the board with the big MOSFET (07N02?)
Ok, so back to the Nichia 219C… these things have a significantly lower Vf and can pull massive current from a single cell, making a ton of heat in the process. So if you’re contemplating a triple build with these, make sure you’re using a host with excess heat sinking and cooling fins. 