Hey Justin - No worries. Soon the wife will join BLF to find out what you need to mod and then order a bunch of stuff for ya....just to get you out of the house. LOL
Nice to see you contemplating again Justin, warming up a bit huh? Beautiful day today, just gorgeous out… 65 and a light breeze, blue skies, but I’m sure we’ll get some nasty yet, always seem to in late Jan or early Feb.
Edit: Sorry, forgot to mention, each LED was tested for 20 seconds.
It was difficult taking photos with my mobile phone of all the readings I took. I eventually only took 2 photos of my setup.
Here I’m measuring a fully charged 25R. I’ve used the 25R to get an indication of the voltage drop when applied to an XP-G2 S4 LED. With initial contact, it dropped to 3.99-4.00 volts.
I then had to dialed in my power supply (seen in the background) to 4.70 volts to get 3.99-4.00 volts when applied to the LED. The wires running from my power supply is thin and quite long.
The wires running from the amp meter to the LED is 18 gauge and around 10cm long. The amp readings I get on this meter is 99% in line with that of my Fluke Clamp Meter.
shrick - wow, lot of work there - great info! Interesting the FT XP-G2's had the greatest variance, where the S4's and U4's were pretty much in the same range. You did get some high amps from those S2's though, more inline with what Mitko gets I'm suspecting from those #'s. Wonder if the reflow method of temp/time/solder used makes a difference, or just that there's such variance in the LED's, or something. I'm suspecting this more and more, since Mitko does high volume, seems to be fairly consistent results, while for me, I'm a little all over the place - different methods, maybe different time/temps, and I got lower amps on S2's mostly, even with domes on so not related to dedoming.
Hope so, soon. freeme's doing it - see his last status on it in post #325 here, probably running the GB from this thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/35973
Direct drive / solder using 18AWG copper wire, XP-L HI 3B.
BOSS1 on top, TK61 (stock) at the bottom.
How come TK61 so dim? You are outstanding during contest with Courui.
I weld professionally for a living. I am pretty sure electrons move from the negative pole to the positive pole when a circuit is established. When you work on your automobile you remove the negative wire from the battery to ensure the livelihood of the various computer modules. I do not wish to argue about basic electricity theories, but, Prove me wrong.
This is why I usually do emitter current readings from the negative wire, if something touches ground it will simply bypass the mcu and go direct drive off the cell. If I were to be using the positive lead and touched ground, I would be shorting out the high discharge cell… ALWAYS a bad thing!
Did I miss something? What the heck is the last 3 posts have to do with anything preceding in this thread? Edit: Ohhh - posts #305 and #306
I'd rather here from freeme - what's the status of this group buy happening? Seems like GearBest was fantasizing on selling them. Anyone here any more from GearBest? Still listed as 3-5 days, as is most of their flashlights.