Led board is aluminum , non-dtp ? Or copper (non-dtp) ?
Dale - good ideas. I got the same Arctic Alumina already. I should be able to sand/grind off the JB Weld if I encounter this issue in the future. I got enough spare switches to last a while. The switch used on this Tiny 26650 light seems quite unique though, but maybe a more commonly available switch could still fit in it's place.
I mentioned way above it's alum in the post with the pics, but didn't do a DTP test on it. I don't think it is, but not sure.
Thanks Tom .
You screw the tailcap as far it goes. The “insulation rings” are soft foam. It works.
I was looking at that battery tube arrangement, simple direct contact, should fit any size cell that is within the limits of the threads. Just don’t overtighten the bits and everything will be fine.
My Texas Poker in my avatar is made similarly, with the exception that the battery tube has a shelf “stop” where it hits the head and can’t be tightened further. When I was modifying it with a new driver it was tough to get that spacing just exactly right to eliminate the gap when on but not crush the cell either. It’s a twisty, no switch, so the spacing is critical. Oh for an e-switch! lol
My DQG is in the system somewhere, in transit says the tracking. Should be showing up in the next week surely…
Indeed it works! 
Used a LiitoKala INR26650-50A flat top.
Now waiting for the night to compare to a Fandyfire UV-S5 SRK clone triple xml… It should be a little brighter, and a third half the size almost! Baby SRK? :heart_eyes:
2500 lumens from a light this size is pretty neat, always loved the big small lights.
DQG lights are typically as compact as possible, I’m a glutton for this and they’re very difficult for me to resist. This one, with 7 emitters, well I knew immediately I couldn’t pass it up!
I just did a quick ceiling bounce-lux meter comparison with a Fandyfire UV-S5 SRK clone rated at 2000-2200 lumens and the DQG Tiny is about 20% brighter, putting it around 2500 lumens as expected. Real nice pocket monster!
The cherry on the cake is the GITD oring inside the head that keeps glowing afterward. :sunglasses:
Received mine this morning. Thanks freeme. Grey in NW. Though I agree it seems on the warm side. I like the UI of this one as compared to the version of this light I received from one of pink panda’s auctions.
And what are the O rings for? They seem too small for anything in this light.
With 400lm per led (<1.5A) there is no need at all for a DTP board.
My question was for modding purposes Jos 
:innocent:
Your excitement over this one convinced me to order it - I'm glad I did, it is pretty nice having this power in such a small package. The GITD o-ring has a pretty cool effect with the optics. Still would like to know more bout it - amps draw at each mode, runtimes, existence of PWM and if so, what it is, etc.
I still don’t have mine, either it’s still in China or on the boat somewhere…
The wait was making me anxious so I modified an MecArmy PT16 to around 2000 lumens with 4 XP-L W2 1D and a ramping FET driver to have something to do.
Been doing some look'n in detail at the driver. I'm no expert on these matters, but it appears the 4 current sensing resistors align pretty well to the 4 modes supports. The resistors are 0.3, 0.5, 0.75 and 2.4 ohm, from lo to turbo I'm think'n.
If this is true, then it should be 4 individual regulated modes, no PWM, and in theory, each mode's level could be adjusted by swapping around these resistors. I see the resistors are connected on one side to Batt- wire, and the other side to 4 individual 3 leg parts, suspecting they are some sort of MOSFET.
Also, been looking very closely at the switch and it's mount. The pads align pretty good to a couple switches I got from Mouser, though the Mouser switch housings are larger, I think they could work out as a replacement, but may need a little sanding/grinding of the pill area at the edges of the switch hole to get it to fit. The height of the switch is perfect, and the pads appears to be perfectly aligned, just that the face of the switch is wider that the stock one, which is why the metal around the switch hole may need a little trimming.
I think the 130g pressure switch would potentially be a nice upgrade, because it's slightly less pressure to activate, and the plunger part of the switch is large, making it easier to engage. These are the two Mouser switches, one is 130g, other is 260g. The 260g matches up well with other budget switches I've seen, like in the Yezl Y3.
These switches don't have the two pins underneath that the stock switch has, but using a good epoxy would make up for that. In addition, stock switches are usually not soldered special, so there's not much solder holding them in place. Hand soldering to beef up the solder joints should help.
Got mine today and very pleased with it. There are a few marks on the body but they where done before it was anodised so this helps hide them. Its only because I was looking closely for marks that I found them otherwise they are not visible. U.I. was a little confusing at fist as I’m so used to using the mk1 version of this light (one of my all time favourite lights) that I kept trying to operate it in the same way. Instructions for using the U.I. are actually printed in small print on the box label. I like the glow in the dark ring behind the optics but the finish on the rubber switch looks a bit cheap it would be better if it was textured. Going to have to be careful not to over tighten the tail cap with no springs though. can’t wait until tonight so I can try it out properly.
Thanks again freeme.
Has anybody had trouble with it not turning on after loosening the tail cap to lockout and retightening. This has happened to me twice so far. When it happens I loosen and tighten to no avail. Both times the battery was removed, posts wiped down, pos and neg contacts on light wiped before it would light up on reassembly. Still working now but haven’t locked it out since it started working last time.
I’m in for one, at the least. Thanx
Len
Interested if code is still alive?
Always wait to read the verdicts, sounds really nice.
Code please.