If batteries have protection try with good batteries without protection
What happens with cheap chinese batteries in High-Current applications can be seen multiple times if you search on youtube for âe-cig explodesâ.
I donât want to see a video with 4 exploding cheapo-18650s in a closed flashlight!
Most problems with new flashlights are caused by battery protection circuits
A good battery of good brand and good chemistry without protection circuit is the best choice
Yeah, itâs always tempting to go cheap on the batts, after laying out a good bit of moola for a light. Which, is why BG specâd high quality branded (Samsung), unprotected high-drain cells.
Forgive me, I meant to say that itâs tempting when spending $70+ on a light to go with whatever is cheaper at the time of purchase. Which, currently on BG, the Samsung 30Q is $6 per cell and the Meco is $3.50 per cell. Personally, I purchased my MF-01, first. And, when I ordered my 30Qs a few days later, I ordered stateside ($6 each) to ensure that they would be here by the time the light arrived.
Even worse than waiting for your light to arrive is to wait for the cells to arrive even though the light itself has arrived already. Really, really no funâŠ
Just took this monster out again to walk my dog, and I must say that Iâm seriously impressed. The term âwall of lightâ takes on a quite literal meaning when I see the spill starting right in front of my feet, and extending horizontally to the periphery of my vision. In light of this (no pun intended) I can probably forgive them for the uneven power distribution in low mode.
But can someone please help me with this:
I have almost zero knowledge of electronics, and I donât want to set my home on fire. Is my analysis correct, and can I safely switch on the light with the probes of my DMM touching both connections of the battery carrier?
You probably donât want to put those amps through your meter. Iâd advise only testing current with a clamp styled meter and beefy wire. What is your meter rated at?
Iâve been warned about putting high AC currents through it, but didnât realise that amperage might also be a problem. Youâre probably right - itâs only a very cheap multimeter with the scale ranging from 200”A to 10A, so Iâll leave the testing to someone else.
Iâm afraid your misunderstanding whatâs going on here. Flying Luminosity was wanting to measure battery voltage, not amperage. You canât measure the amperage anyway. If you use a clamp meter and beefy wire your creating a dead short. Donât do that.
Instead, set your DMM to DC voltage. Then take the tail cap off. You might need 2 people. One person to hold the probes on the battery carrier end and the other pushes the battery carrier against the head of the light and pushes the power button.
With the light off and freshly charged cells you should see 8.4 volts. With the light on max you will see the voltage sag or drop down due to the heavy load. It might drop to 3.7 or 3.8 volts I guess.
Btw, this reading measures all 4 cells at once as a group. This is what the driver sees.
The vid has been taken down, after several commented suggested that the protected cells could be the issue. Odd that he would do that, instead of replying back. Kinda fishy, given that several were burned with the S42âs issues, the MT-18 QC problems, and the ensuing apprehensiveness of others. I could be wrong, but lack of response and removal of the vid makes it seem like it was staged to âfan the flamesâ.
Ahh, my bad. Iâm so accustomed to single cell lights that thinking of the flow of electricity in the multi-cell ones disorients me. It still seems like a worrisome task.
For me, his high perfomance 2 bay battery charger (or perhaps powerbank) was suspicious that he has no good equipment. And the batteries arenât good too.
Well, that first video of the fellow that had 6 of the 18 leds not turn on at the lowest level had a xp-g3 version of the light. So it doesnât seem to be led type dependant.