Maybe both? Unsure of “exactly” what you are asking. It’s more of a mod if anything since the uneven LED lighting is only a slight issue in the lowest mode where it matters the least. I am really considering doing a driver swap, but I really like the constant current drivers in it. The Q8 has me in love with Narsil though… and this would be a fun light with ramping.
Thanks, I had another look at Lexel’s review, I forgot how thorough he was in showing everything 
About the output: The MF-01 can be seen as 4x D4’s in tandem but with 2 more leds and the big copper board, the output could be a bit better even. So 16.000 lumen from the XP-G3 version should not even need minimising every resistance in the path. It does require low resistance springs in the carrier. If Astrolux goes really fancy they can even make a new ledboard and use Luxeon V leds, in which case 20K lumen is met.
music to my ears 
I forgot to write something about the strobe mode of the light.For me,it is the most disorientating blinking of all the lights I have seen.
I’m interested. Please send code.
I would like 219C. Thank you!
Yeah, my bad. For some reason I was thinking 700 lumen was about their limit. I looked up djozz’s test and see they can do 1800 lumen at 8 amps! That’s crazy high.
Your forgetting it’s a 2S2P carrier. You’d need about 30 amps at 8v to get 20,000 lumen. It’s the same 15 amps per cell, though. Sounds doable, but eventually you get such low run times that you need to step up to 8 cells.
Plus the components needed for those high amps may cost a lot more. They might need 6 of the little drivers instead of 3.
I wonder what Lexels Tx Avenger FET driver can do with good cells?
i have same problem i was taken the battery out and one of those brass nipples came off but i don’t know how to solder
It’s actually a pretty good design as is.
The next logical step would be to add active cooling, so a higher output can be maintained over time.
OR
Go with a ridiculous number of LED:s (like Vinh’s Solis) to take advantage of LED:s being more efficient at lower currents (and thus running cooler).
Do you know anyone that can solder? You might take it to an electronics repair shop. They can probably solder it back on in 10 seconds.
Or you can tell banggood and I think they will replace the battery carrier.
” We are sorry for the inconvenience.For the problem please make sure that all the batteries are fully charged and with the same power.And then make sure the body tube and head are tightly closed.Also you can try to stretch the spring on the battery carrier for the good connection.At last please check if the pill on the battery carrier is tightly too.”
I’m starting to get the runaround from BG’s customer service. Should I be contacting someone else, instead?
also interested in a xpg
Okay, your guy who’s light went turbo on one bank when power was connected. I had to look it up because I can’t remember.
Do you want to take the light apart and look around, wiggle some wires? I was thinking one of the 3 drivers had a short to ground. Just taking the driver out and poking around might fix it. If not, then it’s definetly a warranty issue. Make a video for them. It’s not a battery carrier issue.
first i will give banngood a bell cos the second one looks like its about to fly off ifthey sen me a new one then i will have a crack a soldering if i stuff it up well atleast i have a spare battery carrier ?
Add yellow to the indicator,Green yellow red red Please turn it about to blink.
I want the holster attached.
It is a rare model of Nichia Hyper.
I want a variation of Nichia(K).
It may be raising the output of Nichia model at V2 :innocent:
Pictures are reduced to 25% but you can open it at full resolution.
The driver board is sitting on 3 “shoulders” :
I didn’t have the nerves to desolder it, then I made a few pictures rotating the head clockwise :
Not on mine which works fine but, could a short occur here (to much solder on the resistor or if the resistor is touching the aluminum shoulder in the head) ?
That’s a capacitor, but yeah. That could cause some serious problems. Any component or solder that is too close to the edge could short out as there is a thin bare lip all around the flashlight head. I can see that lip in the first picture. If the driver gets shifted to one side it could create a short. This is assuming the driver is not undersized in diameter compared to the hole it fits in.
Nothing new here since the pre-production review (didn’t remember that he was showing the driver board :person_facepalming: ).
Better heat dissipation will be nice addition for new version (if they going to make it).
sweet i just put the heat on top of the nipple and bingo melt straight in done thanks mate
How ?
Thicker aluminum shelf, thicker MCPCB ? Both ?