They have the little buttons. I’m going to run it down a little and check what my D4 has the cells at. If there is still an issue, I will remove the white rings.
If one white plastic ring prevents the battery from making contact, then the two sets should have the same reduced voltage compared to the other two sets, as the (reduced) current of one set should be identical.
Someone had an internal short in the carrier of a Niwalker BK-FA09S IIRC. Perhaps you can check the carrier without the batteries for the connections as well? Just an idea…
Okay, so I inspected the carrier and I have the same problem that was talked about on the german forum. Guy had the same issues, his cells were 4.06, 4.09x2, and 4.16. The brass button just came off with minor pressure from my fingernail. I guess just solder it back on?
Solder it back on if you are feeling handy or take it up with Banggood. I read through the German thread and it seems a few people are having issues with cold solder joints. They were hypothesizing that maybe they soldered with the plastic rings on and didn’t want things to get too hot? I checked my springs, but didn’t press the buttons too hard and though the soldering on the springs is a bit anemic they are all well attached. My Samsung 30Qs didn’t work with the plastic polarity protectors because the button wasn’t proud enough. I’ve only used it one night of the days I’ve had it and my cells continually read the same voltage.
I measured my batteries just now and I also had the contact Problem (4.19, 4.04, 4.04, 3.87)
I put oput the white thingys and one of those brass things came right off.
I soldered it back and resoldered all others (just pout a powerfull soldering iron with no solder at the tip on top of the brass thing).
My batteries are charging and I am curious if this light will be even brighter.
I highly doubt, that the Nichia Version has <8k Lumens - this thing is brighter that my 12*xg-p2 S2 FET King
The most thorough all in one place teardown is Lexel’s Review I’ve not seen too much else on here, but there seemed to be some stuff going on over at the German site. Someone fixed the uneven brightness levels during low by swapping in a TA driver with narsil and there’s a demo video of the light ramping.
Also I don’t think it started since I’ve had it, just never noticed, but in the lowest mode I can see that one bank is ever so slightly brighter than the others. Once the light has warmed up they all seem to even out. I did not shine the light into my eyes or anything, just ran it on turbo outside of my vision until I felt heat then went back to low and they were even.
And JasonWW:
The Xp-G3s can easily do 1000+ lumens each as long as the current is there to be supplied. The light would be pulling 60+ amps, but with 4x 20amp high discharge cells that can be supplied to get this thing cooking at 20,000 lumens