ENEDED

[djozz]

Good pics maukka! You managed to get the differences in red reproduction on camera very well!

[NEU]

Good job maukka :+1:

[rizky_p]

thank you.

@Tally-ho

@silicoon

@rizky_p

can anyone tell me what is the problem with current battery carrier? the brass button?

It seems like a problem with solder.

Yes. To keep the white disc in place, it was not glued but retained by the brass button that has a “T” shape. The larger upper part of the brass button keeps the white disc in place.
So they have to put the disc first and then solder the brass button. I suppose that they heat the brass button quickly to not burn the white disc, this resulting in cold joint and/or brass button not fully soldered down to the MCPCB for optimized contact.
After removing the white discs on my MF-01, the 4 brass buttons were sitting “higher” than the MCPCB, one with little solder under it.

[JasonWW]

@maukka

The Nichia one will give an even consistently white beam

But it’s not really white is it. It’s more a pale white. Slight bit of yellow in it, right?

[giorgoskok]

Not yellow , but very little (i mean very very little :p) rosy on the edges.

Pure pure white !

[myflashguy]

@yuhsin91123

Hi I’m a noob to flashlight world… and I am looking into this MF01 light, and I don’t know if I want XP-G3 or Nichia…
Can someone give me their opinion on each light? All I know XP-G3 gives more lumens output.
And is the 30Q battery the best choice for this light? (I’m also looking for sony VTC6 but they’re hard to find)

GB have VTC6 flash sales @ $19.99 :+1:

[myflashguy]

i don hv MF01 but just want you guys to know that I don prefer long press lock out for side switch type FL becos from experience it can easily be de-activated when button compressed against any object without u knowing it. i favour 6 click lock out in M43,D4, etc…or even 2 clicks method as long as fast few clicks that way u can never unlock the light by accident. Unless the switch lies in a crater like Zebralight switches. Not sure if they will change them tho. just tot i give them some honest feedback. :innocent:

[Aussi]

Interested in one more XP-G3 if there will be a V2.

[hIKARInoob]

@myflashguy

i don hv MF01 but just want you guys to know that I don prefer long press lock out for side switch type FL becos from experience it can easily be de-activated when button compressed against any object without u knowing it. i favour 6 click lock out in M43,D4, etc…or even 2 clicks method as long as fast few clicks that way u can never unlock the light by accident. Unless the switch lies in a crater like Zebralight switches. Not sure if they will change them tho. just tot i give them some honest feedback. :innocent:

I completely agree with you. Long press from off should go to low mode (instead of memory); at least this is how I want it to be. However, in lock out mode the back lit button is disengaged, so I consider a long press from off a method to switch button light on and off.

[myflashguy]

@hIKARInoob

Long press from off should go to low mode (instead of memory)

yup….using D4 as example, not many would remember what was their last memorized level. And if they don’t remember at least they know for sure long press will always go to low mode first then they can set desired level again. 1 click off after memory and 1 click on will go to memorized level. if forget just long press to low mode instead of lockout. repeat when needed :+1:

[JasonWW]

I would imagine that the best lockout is to just turn the tail cap.

Then there is no accidental button press, plus the light will always turn on at the lowest level, plus there is no parasitic drain.

A long press from off to turn on at the lowest level is how Narsil works. So it sounds good to me.

[JasonWW]

@giorgoskok

Not yellow , but very little (i mean very very little :p) rosy on the edges.

Pure pure white !

I may need to try one of these emitters to see for myself. I think the cheapest way would be to order one on a board from MTN Electronics and I can put it in my S2+.

The MF01 uses the 219C 5000k 90+ cri.

I see Richard only has an 80+ cri version . Do you think it would look similar or should I buy from overseas to get a 90+ CRI version?

[myflashguy]

@JasonWW

plus the light will always turn on at the lowest level

memory is good i like memory bcos sometimes u may want to temporarily off the light and go back to your last memorised level. u don’t have to scroll up a few level again to go back. (provided you did not missed it or else u hv to do it all over again) :smiling_imp:

S42 hv 6 level & if not wrong some hv 7 level brightness. It would be painful to ramp up again everytime u turn off your light… :person_facepalming:

And yes Narsil is so far the best! :+1:

[hIKARInoob]

@JasonWW

@giorgoskok

Not yellow , but very little (i mean very very little :p) rosy on the edges.

Pure pure white !

I may need to try one of these emitters to see for myself. I think the cheapest way would be to order one on a board from MTN Electronics and I can put it in my S2+.

The MF01 uses the 219C 5000k 90+ cri.

I see Richard only has an 80+ cri version . Do you think it would look similar or should I buy from overseas to get a 90+ CRI version?

With an A/B comparison you can tell the minor difference in colour rendering; tint is pretty much the same in real life. Only on white walls does the 80+ CRI look less rosy than the 90+ CRI. But 80+ CRI 219C 5000K is just very beautiful. Just get the MF01 219C!!! :smiling_imp:

[JasonWW]

@myflashguy

@JasonWW

plus the light will always turn on at the lowest level

memory is good i like memory bcos sometimes u may want to temporarily off the light and go back to your last memorised level. u don’t have to scroll up a few level again to go back. (provided you did not missed it or else u hv to do it all over again) :smiling_imp:

S42 hv 6 level & if not wrong some hv 7 level brightness. It would be painful to ramp up again everytime u turn off your light… :person_facepalming:

And yes Narsil is so far the best! :+1:

I don’t understand. Why would you lock it out if your still using it? I only lock out my lights when I’m finished using them or I need to transport them.

[JasonWW]

@hIKARInoob

@JasonWW

@giorgoskok

Not yellow , but very little (i mean very very little :p) rosy on the edges.

Pure pure white !

I may need to try one of these emitters to see for myself. I think the cheapest way would be to order one on a board from MTN Electronics and I can put it in my S2+.

The MF01 uses the 219C 5000k 90+ cri.

I see Richard only has an 80+ cri version . Do you think it would look similar or should I buy from overseas to get a 90+ CRI version?

With an A/B comparison you can tell the minor difference in colour rendering; tint is pretty much the same in real life. Only on white walls does the 80+ CRI look less rosy than the 90+ CRI. But 80+ CRI 219C 5000K is just very beautiful. Just get the MF01 219C!!! :smiling_imp:

That’s too much money to throw away! Lol
I once got an xml-2 in 3C just to try it out and hated it. I had to swap it out for a 1 something.

Then I got the DQG 7x xpg2 in CW and it still has a slight yellow tint. Don’t like it and it’s too expensive to swap 7 emitters, so I just don’t use it any more.

I would definitely get the MF-01 with the xp-g3.

I’m just curious if the 219C has any yellow in it or if it’s really like giorgoskok says.

[giorgoskok]

+1 what hknoob said

Tints are nearly identical .

[hIKARInoob]

@JasonWW

I’m just curious if the 219C has any yellow in it or if it’s really like giorgoskok says.

My experience is as giorgoskok has explained: no tint shift, and just beautiful neutral white. Some say it’s a bit on the cold side though. I only have experience with 219b/c with optics though, not reflector.

[myflashguy]

@JasonWW

I don’t understand. Why would you lock it out if your still using it? I only lock out my lights when I’m finished using them or I need to transport them.

I always lock it out whenever I put it back into my jeans pocket. I had bad experience of getting my butt burned really hot & painfull sting. :innocent:

[Theodore41]

@JasonWW

I would imagine that the best lockout is to just turn the tail cap.

Then there is no accidental button press, plus the light will always turn on at the lowest level, plus there is no parasitic drain.

A long press from off to turn on at the lowest level is how Narsil works. So it sounds good to me.

I turn the tail cap to all my lights,so I am not worried of accidental button press.There is one,which doesn’t work this way,a Nitecore EC4GT.I have to turn the cap all the way to the end,taking out the cap 100%.