Ugh… Why do they need to make life of flashaholics so difficult…
Its all a game man….the Budget Light Game….we all take our chances….sometimes we Shine and sometimes we get f’d……
Well, I guess the cost of redesigning the driver had to be covered… :cry:
I did double check with BG before V2 was launched. 
I just alerted BG regarding about this. Let see what he has to say on Monday.
That would be really bad move from Astrolux (they didn’t specify which 219c’s they’re using, still… making a good sample for first impression and then lowering the quality sucks. But maybe it was just a fluke. Hopefully.
Can you post photos of the light compared to each other? Preferrably on white and some colorful things…
Also, is the new driver 6s3p? (edit: probably so, I see)
If so, maybe connecting the old head leads in series could get new driver to work with old head?…
I see the difference, it’s just not that big of a deal to me. It’s a nice white tint from what little use I gave it last night. I could see using this all the time if it has a nice UI, or a great UI like Narsil. I’m not liking the memory. I want to start in low, or at least have the option to start in low every time. With a driver swap, which may require a mcpcb swap, this might become my favorite flashlight.
I can’t say for sure that they used 219C R8000, but the blue colors rendition of the MF-01 v2 is pretty low, lower than with the Emisar D4 219C R8000 because there is more yellow in the blue colors of the MF-01 v02. There are more orange + red + brown colors in the MF-01 v2 than with the D4.
The MF-01 v2 (219C) is between the MF-01 v1 (219C R9050) and Emisar D4 (219C R8000).
219C R8525 
Well, what can I say ?
My MF-01 second wave was delivered in almost no days (from UK warehouse) and is perfect.
The Nichia LEDs are excellent to my eyes.
It has the 6S boost driver and it works perfectly, full output is maintained across all battery voltages, actually it is a bit worrying because it only cuts off when the cells are at 2.7V. Far too low.
On turbo, I do believe it is hitting over 10,000 lumens. On high, it is still very bright, but steps down after maybe 20 minutes. To the same level as medium.
Medium and low are sustained indefinitely and are great, very usable. Ultra low is there, and works. I cannot fault it.
Endurance is not as advertised, e.g. advertised medium 700 lumen 14 hours lasted about 6 hours (brand new Samsung 30Qs) More investigation ongoing, but basically the torch consumes current to make light. The manufacturer quotes ridiculous figures.
E.g. turbo nonsense. XPG3 12000 lumen 3.5 hours. 219C 11526 lumens (what a pity, the same 3.5 hours but 474 fewer lumens). Try to run this torch on turbo, for 3.5 hours, I dare you, just a suggestion, it won’t work.
Nevertheless it is a very very good torch used within limitations. My favourite at the moment.
I could have sworn that I got a reply when I asked this.
But I can’t find it now but if I remember correctly it was something like “that would be the the stupidest thing they could do and they would loose alot of customers if they did that”
So I hope you are wrong about that they used different Nichia’s or I’m gonna get pretty disappointed.
I remember someone asking, and I also remember this comment above, meaning I don’t recall having read a defined answer.
I’ve read the same thing too, someone asking if Astrolux would cheap out on the new batch. And someone replied and saying it would be very dumb for them to go cheap on the second batch.
TBH I feel my Q8 is making stuffs easier to see
I got used to Nichia LEDs with tints below Black Body Locus reference and my MF-01 v2 is above the BBL. At first the difference let me think that it was lower CRI Nichia but after more comparisons and time to got used to this difference, I guess both used 219C R9050 but with different tint batch.
The overall tint of my v1 is “whiter” with a hint of magenta that makes colors look more saturated. The v2 is more yellow with a hint of green, orange and red colors look less denses, red colors are more orange and blue colors are a bit green. At first I hated it but I probably need more time to get used to it, once the brain white balanced the beam tint, it’s not that bad.
I thought 700 lumen was low and 1100 was medium. Moon, low, med, high, turbo?
To me, it looks like the runtimes are for the xpg3 version, not the 219 version.
What is meant is you turn the light on turbo and measure till the batteries run down. This is common practice and very few companies give specific details. Olight for instance will be more specific and say turbo- 3 min then high for 20 min then med for 3 hours. So don’t be fooled by the runtime specs. You have to know their tricks. Plus common sense will tell you it can’t sustain the heat nor will 4 18650 cells have enough capacity to sustain the amp draw for that long. You’d need what, 50 batteries to maintain 20 amps for 3.5 hours?
Hey, i 3d printed light diffuser, so happy, the tint is very good
Also this is the V2 nichia led under UVight, it is less yellow compare with my astrolux s42(80+ cri, no, it’s 90+, sorry)
I dont know what it means, hope somebody make it clear for me
According to maukka astrolux s42 219c is 90+CRI
oh i didnt know that, thank you
The figures for the 219C are given in the instructions as:
Low, 70 lumens, 214 hours.
Med 700 lm 14h
Med 1 1100 lm 4.7h
High 6800 lm 4h
Turbo 11526 lm 3.5h
These numbers don’t make much sense to me, e.g. Med 1 at 1100 lm only lasts 4.7h, whereas High, at more than six times the lumens supposedly lasts 4h, and Turbo with ten times the output is quoted at 3.5h.
They also don’t stand up to a quick estimate, e.g. it typically takes at least 3.5A of current from a single LiIon cell to produce about 1000 lumens from a decent LED. So a single 18650 of say 3000 mAh capacity would only be expected to supply e.g. 1000 lumens for less than an hour. Or with four cells, less than four hours. Certainly not 6800 or even 11526 lumens, for several hours.
And this estimate is in line with what I found on medium, 700 lumens, 6 hours instead of the quoted 14 hours.
When running on High, my torch also steps down in brightness very noticeably, after about 15 minutes. It is warm by this point, but not hot. I would guesstimate that brightness was perhaps halved during the step down. So the reality seems to be that the torch only seems to maintain strong output for 15 minutes or less. It will not run continuously at full output on the high setting, which is a disappointment, but perhaps also explains the implausible run-times stated for the high power levels.
Perhaps someone with suitable equipment could measure the actual output of the torch under realistic operation (not just the initial few minutes).
Is that V1 or V2 you’ve got? Probably V2…
I assume second wave would be version 2.