li primaries do exceed 1.6v open circuit.
I’d guess someone found a way to cut a few pennies off the construction cost for the Singapore Energizer lithium primaries.
Maybe buying thinner metal for a slightly thinner case, or eliminate a step in production that improved the seal.
I just opened a blister pack of four Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAAs.
12-2035, and three out of four were dead. One tested just fine.
It seems inevitable that cheeseparing will slowly degrade any originally well built product.
Been using them for years, and to be honest, never had a single problem with them. All my AA flashlights have them, my bicycle tail light (has two), and have used them in my Son’s wireless Xbox controllers that can suck an eneloop dry in a day.
Made in Singapore
bad batch?
counterfeits?
So is there any news on this topic? Has Energizer found a better manufacturer outside of Singapore?
Anyone had any luck, good or bad, buying Energizer lithium primaries?
I was about to go to the local Target to stock up as I’ve depleted my earthquake supply cache, then I wondered, what will I get at what price?
Still mfg in Singapore. Not sure what difference that makes. I use them exclusively in all my limited use AAA/AA devices, especially stuff that lives in my vehicle year round. Never had an issue, and my EUL loaded lights or devices always fire right up no matter how long they’ve sat. The peace of mind is worth the extra expense. YMMV.
I know the OP in this thread is pretty ancient & a few chimed in back in 21’, but i couldn’t help but notice nobody mentioned what looked kinda obvious to me.
If you check out the picture of the remote showing the open bays, look closely at the covers guide channel on the right side. It looks as if it either incurred some sort of liquid ingress that caused corrosion, or the cells leaked so bad that even the guide channel way outside the cell’s bay is glistening in something wet or greasy. Not to mention the large openings in the cell bays allowing whatever it was that ingressed to seep deeper beyond the bays & into the remote. This could also help highlight why the remote stopped working all together.
The other two batteries in this 4 pack were said to have been placed in a tackle box… It wouldn’t be crazy to suggest a tackle box sees a lot of water, albiet fresh or salt, either way it promotes corrosion on metal. Add a tad of electricity somehow & that corrosion process happens much faster than it would naturally.
The same goes for the guy who used them in his outdoor sprinkler timer, I’d wager that’s a pretty moisture rich environment. All you need there is a cheap unsealed cover or a misplaced seal & you got corrosion city. Just open your kids new AA powered squirt gun next summer, you’ll see.
Don’t get me wrong here, I’ve had Alki’s leak on me plenty of times (I actually just cleaned out a forgotten 2AA old Innova an hour ago). However, I’ve never had the Ultimate Lithiums leak & I’ve never had discharge from traditional alki’s climb up & out of the cells bay… And the only times my devices have become inoperable afterwards, was after the contacts crystalized, corroded & then completely snapped off, which wasn’t the case in this remote. Battery leakage or something else, I’m sure the large openings in the cell bays had contributed to it’s demise.
Again, I bring this up not to poke or prod, but only cuz I’m surprised nobody else mentioned or asked about the glistening residue way outside the cell bay & it has me rather curious…
Now, with all that said, Im pretty sure that I have… but who knows, maybe I just haven’t had the “full” alkaleak experience yet.
They will give you two new batteries.