Some work with 14500 and some don’t. Luck of the draw I guess. I asked by email and was told they can use 14500. This was over a year ago. Mine does.
Yeah, seems there are very different experiences with this light! I guess mine will only take a 14500 when I mod the driver (hopefully)
It’s a strange light, but very likeable. Glad you like it.
Maybe one day we find the perfect “blf” driver for this light.
I got excited when I saw the 2700K option but then I saw the comments about PWM.
Why go to the trouble of getting a warm, pretty, high CRI emitter if it’s going to be rendered ugly with headache-inducing PWM?!?
Referencing your pic, what are the lights? I think that’s a Tool Ti on the right side.
Yup, you are correct, the one on the right side is a Lumintop Tool TI (AAA/10440, modded by CRX)!
The line is (left to right):
1- Nitefox ES10K (Stainless Steel, AA/14500)
2- hc-lights SS AAA (Stainless Steel, AAA/10440, similar to the BLF 348)
3- Amutorch S3 (Stainless Steel, AA/14500)
4- FireFlies SS AA
5- DQG AA Slim Ti (Titanium alloy, AA/14500)
6- Lumintop Tool Ti (Titanium, AAA/10440, modded by CRX)
Mascaratum, you forgot to mention that it’s the AAA version of the Lumintop Tool Ti
I did not my friend
It is on the confirmation of nightwalker’s question
But I’ll add the info on the list
Just wanted to report that my Enogear AA Stainless Steel just went dead one day (been like it since February 2020). It was mainly a shelf queen with very little to no usage and a Eneloop 2000 mAh. Turned it on and no light… checked battery with charger and battery was at 1.33 volts. Tried loosening and re-tightening tailswitch but no avail… if it did come on, it was intermittent and did not cycle between levels… nice looking “poor man’s” Haiku but sucks in reliability department. And no, I have not inserted 14500 into at all… I’ll have to place a tag with “All Show, No Go” on the clip.
Thanks for reporting that.
I have some issues with my latest one as well, only inserted a new Duracell alkaleak.
It sometimes works as intended, but sometimes it just steps down to a (lower than low) level and i cannot increase the brightness again.
Sometimes loosening and tightening the head works, but the last time (when i needed it) it didn’t and it stayed dim.
Did you try tightening the retaining ring or maybe unscrew body tube completely and use wire to rule out tail problem?
Not yet, i was hoping that when i buy a light, it works (is that too much asked)?
Will give it a try.
I ended up putting a FET driver in mine and SST-20 3500K but I am second guessing this decision since SS and tiny pill is not ideal for this. I turned the 219B in it originally blue instantly.
In case it helps anyone here is the driver they are using as of this latest batch:
I tightened the retaining ring on the driver, unfortunately it made no difference.
I tightened the retaining ring on the switch assembly, which did make a difference, it seems to be working fine now!
I noticed that when completely disassembling mine to see how it worked. To fully tighten the tail retainer it ends up being just below the 2 cutouts for the lanyard and it’s not simple to fully tighten cause I think there is an O ring there for good measure.
I just modded mine: What did you mod today? - #9588 by MascaratumB
Put a 15mm FET driver with Bistro HD OTSM, a 10mm DTP MCPCB with a Luxeon V2 3000K and a pebbled TIR !
Me likes About the heat…I’ll need to have the unprotected Shockli cells to make it go hoooooot
Do you have a link to the optic? I modded mine to use a CWF driver, but I’m not overly fond of the stock optic’s beam profile
I assume you mean Dragon Mini driver? Any details you can share like if the 7135’s fit as is? Sanding? Is there a 7135 on top side?
Yes I do! Here it is
Make sure you pick the right one as they have different options! This is a quite nice floody beam