1-50-200-double clikc-400 lumen would be perfect for me
I would rather have: a Moonlight (0.5-5 lumens), general use level (40-60 lumens) and full blast (380? lumens). Skip the strobe, it’s of no use and makes next to no one happy.
and I would much rather have high CRI than a few more lumens, Nichia 219 B or C that is.
3 modes are IMHO enough for such a small light.
Make it MID - LOW - HIGH with maybe 50 - 2 - 380 lumens.
Double clic is a good idea to switch ON/OFF but a long clic to scroll between modes would be more practical. Make the loop fast enough like the Olights maybe (about 0,5s between modes)
Please ALWAYS start in moonlight, otherwise you risk ruining the user’s/onlooker’s night vision.
Well, LOW - MID - HIGH then, with memory
@ProjectONE : UI is important, because it determines if the product will be usable or a waste of time for the consumer… but please don’t take us too seriously, BLF has a huge history about being finicky with UIs :innocent:
That’s OK, as long as memory mode can be switched off.
Yup, I agree with that.
But Moonlight (less than 1 lumen) is not really useful on a keychain light IMO. Make the LOW really low (maybe 1 or max 2 lumens), and a usable 50 lumens MED.
You’re right, 1-2 lumens is probably best for this kind of light.
So nothing between 50 and 400 lumens?
I would be fine with still keeping a 200lm mode between those. But I also understand what they’re saying. For such a small light, just a few handy modes is enough. I don’t mind strobe being there. There are some people who will use it. But, I wouldn’t want to have to click through strobe to get to off. In fact, I don’t like having to click through modes at all to get the light off. That’s why I suggested two different kinds of clicking action. Something (like your double click) to turn the light on/off and another style (maybe just a single click) to switch between modes. I do also prefer last mode memory, but I can live without it if the light starts always in the lowest mode.
I’m reminded of an advertisement I once saw for a Chevrolet pickup truck saying it has the most V8 horsepower of any truck in its class. That was a true statement, but Ford and Dodge offered V10s and the Chevrolet, in fact, had the least horsepower in its class.
Blinky modes are mostly useless, especially on a light like this. Strobe will just get in the way. Not being able to turn the light off without cycling through modes, from any mode is very bad. Don’t do that.
Please don’t
start in moonlight mode, because people turn a light on to see something, so it should start with 20 lumen or more.
You’re not gonna get 400 Lumen from 800mA current anyway, so it’ll be like 50 for low mode and 200 for high mode.
The “jump” between 50 and the supposedly 350 or 400 lumens is not a jump.
Brightness perception of the human eye is not linear
Let’s agree to disagree 
Minimum there should at least be a way to get to moonlight directly from off.
+1
A long press is ideal.
You have to now the shortcut, so moonlight do get in your way when you just want to see something.
It can be accidentaly activated in your Pocket without draining the battery entirely in 2 minutes.
Olight do that, long press from OFF to moonlight/low mode
For me mode memory and low voltage protection would be great, mandatory even.
The UI, that’s a tough one, but I do like just two modes in such small lights, maybe 10-20lm for finding keyholes etc and full blast, that’s it.
Please NO strobes!
Switching on/ off by a single click and cycling modes with a press & hold of the button when on, maybe a hidden moonlight mode by press & hold of the button from off.
I wear a DQG Spy high CRI light on a neckchain constantly and find the simple two mode interface almost perfect.
Going with a high CRI smaller emitter such as Nichia 219c might be the way to go and give you an extra millimetre or so extra space in the light for something else.
The main thing I realized - nobody needs strobe Next thing - not more then 3 modes.
I’ll think and discuss here all variants about modes and the way user should switch them.
As you understand - to change the way I switch between modes is only a few changes in a code of firmware.
Made some improvements in lens alignment. Here are actual shots (second with flashlight of smartphone to light my hand):
