Definitely PWM, but it’s only noticbable on low when you are testing for it and really want to find it. Medium and high seem to be pretty high frequency. The most recent purchase was delivered last month.
Not sure where to post this, has anyone modded a Tool to use a 219C yet? Would it work well? Djozz?
No, I haven't, but since the Tool uses a boost driver, the 219C with its very low Vf will work very well: good output for most of the battery drain. The only problem I can think of is when you use a 10440 cell (which will cause the driver to work direct drive), the current could be too high for the either the driver or the switch to survive.
Just to clarify, this is a 3rd version? And is there any aftermarket clips for it? It would be a pity if the copper ones came with the buttery clip.
OK I lied. I accidentally picked up my old one last night and checked it. I will have to check the new one tonight.
Im trying to confirm if the new version of the Tool is No PWM, like illuminos has shared
Here is the official site :
and some of the specs:
> 3 modes: Mid(Default)-Low-High; (some sites claim LMH, does anyone have a current generation stock Tool with LMH mode sequence?, not counting the ReyLight discussed here )
> High-efficiency digitally regulated circuit to maintain a constant brightness as battery life diminishes (does this translate to Yes or No PWM?)
> Intelligent memory function stores last mode accessed (is that a 3 second memory?)
My Copper Tool Clickie Does use PWM, it does have the mode sequence MLH and defaults to M after 3 seconds. I don’t have any other Memory function, what are they talking about?
My pocket clip is the same as the one on the Maratac. Both are quite solid and strong imo. Since I use hat mode, I reverse my clips. I dont usually clip to a pocket, more often I use a dedicated pocket for my EDC light (cargo pants, vest, jacket, or two pocket shirt). I have been known to use Superglue to prevent losing a pocket clip when operating a light on my cap, especially twisty versions. Imo the clicky version is less likely to pop the clip off, and I consider the Tool pocket clip stronger than the ones on my Thrunite and Olight aaa lights.
No mode memory on both of mine.
The twisty came with a slightly greener tint than the clicky so I swapped it for a nichia219b. Looks just slightly dimmer than the xpg2. Hotspot is also slightly bigger with softer edges so throw is diminished. Beam is smooth with no artifacts on both the stock xpg2 and nichia219b emitter. Mod is really easy and this is now my new EDC until the copper GB comes around.
I have. I haven’t gone through a whole eneloop yet but I love it so far.
Nice! especially with the No PWM circuit you discovered. And your tailcaps can be Lego swapped. Congrats!
works twisting the head AND with the tailswitch
The not visible or nonexistent PWM was a nice surprise as I was planning on driver swaps before. I’m considering trying out various LEDs: XPL, XPL HI, 219C 80+CRI etc. Any word on when the 90+ CRI variants of the 219C will be out?
Also does anyone know how durable the clicky switch is, how will it take the current with a 10440 + FET driver? One of the reasons I bought the twisty is because there is no possibility of a switch failure.
I do not trust the Tool switch because the current is carried through the spring that also does the switch mechanism. But switches have surprised me before...
I dont know, and your driver is different, but Vinh seems to like the Tool switch: see his comments at the 36 second mark about the forward clicky high current capability, and you can also google ToolVN for more info
I guess we’ll just have to see with the switches. Just ordered some 10440s, hoping this driver can handle it without a driver swap.
some people get away with it… are you feeling lucky?
Tools are not rated for 10440 voltage but:
The Tool AAA Copper unofficially supports 10440 lithium cells - for super-output (up to 250 lumens)
Do take note that once 10440 is used for a long time - the Tool AAA may not work on normal AAAs again”
otoh elsewhere on the web Vinh says why not to use 10440 in a stock Tool:
“2. Circuit components are typically rated about 2V to boost max efficiency. When you put in 4.2V things goes into direct drive and all sort of things like transistors can overheat and go. Power=Current*Volatge, A linear relation, Upping voltage surpasses the max power handling of all parts and they will inevitable fail.
3. If the components do not fail completely their specs will change over time and thus you can not go back to AAA anymore. ”
no, but, when they do come out, you can bet the color temp will be lower… its a trade, you want bright, you give up CRI, you want CRI you give up bright
example, stock CU Tool XPG2 nominal 6000k 70CRI, 110 lumens on high
the BLF N219b Tool nominal 4500K 91CRI, 85 lumens on high
present N219c nominal 5000K 80CRI, guessing 94 lumens on high (219c is ~10% cooler, ~10% less CRI, ~10% brighter than N219b)
for me, 90+ CRI is more of a priority than high lumens in Cool tint. I dont mind 4500K to get 90CRI, in fact I prefer Neutral to Cool White
If brightness was my priority, I would go with a stock XPG2 Maratac at 138 lumens, or a Thrunite Titanium with XPL at 162 lumens, but both of those are quite cool, plus to my eye they have a green tint I dont care for.
imo The interest in N219c is brightness driven, the downside is cooler tint and lower CRI
I just reflowed a xpl 5a onto the stock mcpcb in another of mine. Still just running eneloops. I think I like it even better than my 219C tool.
Finally received (actually I had to go to the PO to retrieve it) my new Lumintop Tool. XP-G2 5-32-110lm (manufacture specs), new packaging is nicer, the knurling is not as agressive as the old one. Still a really great light.
can you please post side by side beamshots against a folded piece of white printer paper?:
another way to get some idea of the difference in tint is to post pics of the LED tint in the reflector, with the lights off:
and if you want some idea of relative CRI, totally unscientific, take individual light beam pics of your hand:
high brightness (note the lack of red tint):
old knurl on left
old PWM circuit on left, note lack of ring around LED
Is it possible to use a 10440 lithium battery with a new driver?
Will it work on AAA batteries after that?