FC GT40 3000k vs. XHP70.3 HI 3000k. Which should I pick???

Hey y’all. Just wondering if anyone has experience with both LEDs in 3000k cct… I really want another M21B and I want 3000k this time. Also would really like to upgrade my L6 and GT70. How does them compare in terms of DUV, color shift, heat build up?? I believe a 80cri 70.3 should be better but not sure how’s the tint over a high CRI FC40.

I don’t think many people have had the opportunity to properly test them yet in this cct. Maybe I’ll just bite the bullet and order one.

The 70.3 will be more efficient than the FC-40 and throw farther. I have a 3000k 70.3 which was disappointingly yellow, but that is only one sample from kaidomain

Hmm I don’t like the idea of a yellowish 3000k. Perhaps the Gt40 is rosier? At a cost of efficiency?

XHP70.3 HI 3000K from Simon is 7C bin, so yellowish. Also, it is low CRI.

I wonder if CRI is that important in a 3000k light… One of my prettiest tint I got is an old C8 with the XML-2 3000k. I may be talking BS, but I don’t feel like it matters that much in a warm LED. But a yellow beam is not what I’m looking for.

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You would be surprised how well you can differentiate colors and that your brain will still interpret white as white under 2000K 95CRI light with a rosy tint :smiley:

When I’ve moved from 70CRI, to 90CRI/R9050, and then 95CRI/R9080 lights for urbex photography there is a noticeable improvement in the photos at the same location.

Uhh that’s very interesting! Do you have some recommendations for me in this category? I’ve seen a few 1800/2000k LEDs like the GT40. And I’d like to own one someday.

What lights do you use for photography? Something like a mule? Without optics?

I’d go with the GT FC40.

Better tint and available in higher CRI in general.

For 2000K I highly recommend the (super) high CRI Nichia E21A. It has a slightly negative DUV = rosy/magenta tint. The rosiness makes the the CCT appear higher (colder) than it actually is, and makes whites look whiter. So the light this leds produce for me looks more "golden" than the yellow/orange you would expect at 2000K.

A somewhat more practical(?) substitute for the 2000K E21A would be a shaved 2700K Nichia 519A. However I like the E21A more. When ordering a flashlight with E21A's from Emisar I'd ask for the 7.5A driver.

The 1800K GTFC-40 is reported to have a noticeable positive DUV, so it'll look very yellowish.

R9080 is a must for urbex photography since there is a lot of rust etc. in such places.

I use a ~ 3700K Nichia 219B Mf01 Mini for long exposure light painting urbex photography. After fiddling with the white balance I'm quit happy with the results. However the pink tint is sometimes a bit too visible, but it's easy to correct while editing RAW files.

My friends use even reflector based lights for light painting with good results, but I think a narrow (frosted) TIR is easier to work with.

I'm currently searching for a new light to do this, so I'm very curious what @Stephenk recommends. Maybe something with 519A 5700K? I'm a tad afraid it will be too rosy and are thinking about a 5000K + 5700K mix. I'm thinking about a 5000K + 5700K mix or 3500K + 4500K Convoy S21D or Emisar D4S with the boost driver. The Convoy M21B with the 5500K GTFC-40 might be an option as well.

Woah!! Those are some stunning shots!! Really impressive. But those were shot with a reflector based light? And 1800k???

I usually use Convoy S2+ (or S21E) either with moving illumination or static illumination with diffusers.

I should start a new hobby. Photography. But my wallet wont allow it. :slight_smile:

All shot with the Atrolux MF01 mini. Clean, somewhat narrow-ish TIR.

Yeah, photography is quite expensive nowadays, but you can have great results and save a lot of money by buying second hand semi-pro apsc DSLR’s and second hand lenses.

That’s really cool! I’ll definitely be looking into a nice setup in the future. Thanks!