Finally the XHP70.2 emerges!

[solRNY]

when i bop the led some solder did squirt out, i then push the led a tad to see if it will pull itself back onto the pad. i wonder instead of bopping to squirt, i would bop and hold till the led cools down for better contact.

the led did go blue before “poofing”, long enough for me to realize “oh sh!t” that is not the color i want.

i wish Narsil have a ramp speed setting, current setting is too fast for me to stop it from going full power, a much slower speed would allow me to stop once i see some blue tint.

[Texas_Ace]

Be careful you are not overheating the LED when reflowing as well. It is easy to do if you are not using a temperature controlled heating source.

[solRNY]

good thoughts, going to make use of the FLIR one for the next reflow

[ledalex]

@Tom E

So there’s a TIR optic for a XHP70/XHP70.2? Interesting… I’m thinking ~8 XHP70.2’s in a BLF GT .

In the MT03, vertical space is tight. Yea, the shelf is terribly thin. It’s a waste of the thick metal body - just seems out of place for the walls to be so thick and the shelf so thin, and those thick plated copper plates between the cells and driver - nonsensical.

I replaced the stripped head screws on the battery tube today - had to use a dremel cutting blade to but slits in the tops of them, then use a regular screw driver to remove them.

Also drilled out clearance for the LED wires through the shelf, eliminated all the rough edges.

The BLF SRK v3.4 HQ driver is reflowed, set up as FET+1 using the Hyperion FET. Using DEL’s new C3 and C4 caps in the design to tone down spikes the 7135 takes in these 2S high amp setups.

Could you fit more than 8?

[Tom_E]

Dunno, only a wild guess here because of course the GT is the widest head light around.

I noticed with the 3 XHP70.2 P2 3B's in the MT03, I don't notice the yellow ring around the halo. Not sure it made a difference, but I scraped off the yellow on the edges of the LED. Pretty sure my MT07 and L6 have the yellow ring.

I'll have to try it on the L6 or MT07 and see if it makes a difference.

[AlexGT]

You think that might reduce the yellow around the main beam? Let us know of your findings, I was wondering if a sliced dome close to the surface of the die might reduce that too…

[Tom_E]

Possible? I know KawiBoy mentioned this, or something like this on dedomed LED's - though maybe it could be the same for domed LED's.

All I do know is I did it on all 3 in the MT03 and I don't see a yellow halo. Dunno, might have time this evening to try it.

[Anthon]

I reflowed this XHP70.2 N4-3A 5000K from fasttech on my Acebeam EC50 Gen II 5000k, but there isn’t any difference, my integrating sphere shows the same lumens for all modes with both leds

[Texas_Ace]

@Anthon

I reflowed this XHP70.2 N4-3A 5000K from fasttech on my Acebeam EC50 Gen II 5000k, but there isn’t any difference, my integrating sphere shows the same lumens for all modes with both leds

This is not that surprising. I am sure that light uses a regulated driver. At the same currents the total wattage is less due to the lower Vf of the LED. This means that while it is more efficient it doesn’t produce anymore lumens until you drive it harder.

The same thing can be seen in my XP-L vs XP-L2 test (the XHP70 uses XP-L and the xhp70.2 uses XP-L2 dies, so it is a great comparison).

Basically you would need to boost the current to see more lumens. Right now you should get an improvement in battery life.

[The_Driver1 (The_Driver)]

@Texas_Ace

@Anthon

I reflowed this XHP70.2 N4-3A 5000K from fasttech on my Acebeam EC50 Gen II 5000k, but there isn’t any difference, my integrating sphere shows the same lumens for all modes with both leds

This is not that surprising. I am sure that light uses a regulated driver. At the same currents the total wattage is less due to the lower Vf of the LED. This means that while it is more efficient it doesn’t produce anymore lumens until you drive it harder.

The same thing can be seen in my XP-L vs XP-L2 test (the XHP70 uses XP-L and the xhp70.2 uses XP-L2 dies, so it is a great comparison).

Basically you would need to boost the current to see more lumens. Right now you should get an improvement in battery life.

It’s also because the LED needs to be in a higher Bin to actually be birghter. An XHP70.2 in P2-Bin should make the light brighter at the same current. The differences are small though…

[Wieselflinkpro]

@Texas_Ace

@Anthon

I reflowed this XHP70.2 N4-3A 5000K from fasttech on my Acebeam EC50 Gen II 5000k, but there isn’t any difference, my integrating sphere shows the same lumens for all modes with both leds

This is not that surprising. I am sure that light uses a regulated driver. At the same currents the total wattage is less due to the lower Vf of the LED. This means that while it is more efficient it doesn’t produce anymore lumens until you drive it harder.

The same thing can be seen in my XP-L vs XP-L2 test (the XHP70 uses XP-L and the xhp70.2 uses XP-L2 dies, so it is a great comparison).

Basically you would need to boost the current to see more lumens. Right now you should get an improvement in battery life.

Yes the improvement should be a better battery life / longer runtime and less heat / longer Turbo-Mode with terminal regulation and thats all.

[AlexGT]

@Tom E

Dunno, only a wild guess here because of course the GT is the widest head light around.

I noticed with the 3 XHP70.2 P2 3B’s in the MT03, I don’t notice the yellow ring around the halo. Not sure it made a difference, but I scraped off the yellow on the edges of the LED. Pretty sure my MT07 and L6 have the yellow ring.

I’ll have to try it on the L6 or MT07 and see if it makes a difference.

Hi Tom E, Did you get to finish this mod, what was the result? Can you confirm that the yellow in the corona went away by doing it?

Thanks! :+1:

[Tom_E]

The MT03's beam looks great - no noticeable yellow halo, but on the L6, it seemed to make no difference whatsoever. Maybe the shallow OP reflector really helps, big time, dunno.

[Anthon]

@Texas_Ace

@Anthon

I reflowed this XHP70.2 N4-3A 5000K from fasttech on my Acebeam EC50 Gen II 5000k, but there isn’t any difference, my integrating sphere shows the same lumens for all modes with both leds

This is not that surprising. I am sure that light uses a regulated driver. At the same currents the total wattage is less due to the lower Vf of the LED. This means that while it is more efficient it doesn’t produce anymore lumens until you drive it harder.

The same thing can be seen in my XP-L vs XP-L2 test (the XHP70 uses XP-L and the xhp70.2 uses XP-L2 dies, so it is a great comparison).

Basically you would need to boost the current to see more lumens. Right now you should get an improvement in battery life.

Thank you. If it’s more efficient then at least there is an improvement, I will keep the XHP70.2 in this light, I like the tint though

I’ll think in unscrewing the glued head and adding some R050 resistors, but not now

[Tom_E]

I tried slicing a XHP70.2 dome. Little more silicone came off than what I wanted. Some yellow phosphor came off, and looked like a broken wire. I could only see 1 wire connection, so thinking it was the one extra wire, like the old CREE's have - forgot what it was there for. Looking at the phosphor of the LED, I could not tell any was missing - still solid yellow. The LED lit up ok, but when I cranked it up, started seeing smoke - didn't have the reflector in yet, so I could not tell where the smoke was from. But the MT07, one big light, got pretty warm, I continued with high amps to see where the smoke was coming from. Went too far with it I guess, and a black spot developed about in the middle. I dunno -maybe the slicing, maybe the extreme high amps - didn't measure them, but with a 404 FET, 2S2P of Sam 30Q's, 18 AWG wires, spring bypasses, thinking the amps were wayyy up there.

With no reflector, the tint looks pretty darn good - nice creamy white from a P2 3B.

So any ideas if it was slicing, the broken wire, or the high amps was the cause of smoking the LED?

[KawiBoy1428]

@Tom E

I tried slicing a XHP70.2 dome. Little more silicone came off than what I wanted. Some yellow phosphor came off, and looked like a broken wire. I could only see 1 wire connection, so thinking it was the one extra wire, like the old CREE’s have - forgot what it was there for. Looking at the phosphor of the LED, I could not tell any was missing - still solid yellow. The LED lit up ok, but when I cranked it up, started seeing smoke - didn’t have the reflector in yet, so I could not tell where the smoke was from. But the MT07, one big light, got pretty warm, I continued with high amps to see where the smoke was coming from. Went too far with it I guess, and a black spot developed about in the middle. I dunno maybe the slicing, maybe the extreme high amps didn’t measure them, but with a 404 FET, 2S2P of Sam 30Q’s, 18 AWG wires, spring bypasses, thinking the amps were wayyy up there.

With no reflector, the tint looks pretty darn good - nice creamy white from a P2 3B.

So any ideas if it was slicing, the broken wire, or the high amps was the cause of smoking the LED?

Huh, the 70.2 is a flip chip, wonder where the wire came from? I de-domed a 70.2 and thru a 10X glass I didn’t see any bond wires, just a rocky rough surface of phosphorus? Also what amazed me was how fast the dome fell off during the Hot chemical de-doming, the bond between the dome and chip is super thin compared to the old XHP70 which takes hours to de-dome chemically in my set-up?? Another thing I noticed was how soft the phosphorus was, kind of mushy, flaky? Not like the old XHP70’s phosphorus which is harder and flatter, smoother surface in comparison?

[Tom_E]

Hhmm, I gotta take a decent pic of it. Dang, thought you chemically dedomed a 70.2, wasn't sure, I searched BLF trying find your pic of it. I just wanted to try some quick hacking to see if I could get some decent throw #'s from the MT07. I "think" Haikelite sent me out an SMO reflector for the MT07 - they asked $15 for it, not bad, so I paid them, just didn't get a shipping confirmation. They said they made 30 of them, but other BLFers who emailed them for it haven't gotten a response from them.

I only saw one wire connection off the square phosphor area, and pretty sure I saw a typical tiny gold wire broken off of it. Think the XM-L2's have that extra wire you could break off - think it was for static protection or something? Was hoping that's what it was on a 70.2.

Edit: We got some low fast moving clouds going by now,and took out the BOSS1, direct drive, dedomed XPL V6, and was able hit the clouds! First time I've done that. Measure throw over 700 kcd with this setup.

[KawiBoy1428]

@Tom E

Hhmm, I gotta take a decent pic of it. Dang, thought you chemically dedomed a 70.2, wasn’t sure, I searched BLF trying find your pic of it. I just wanted to try some quick hacking to see if I could get some decent throw #’s from the MT07. I “think” Haikelite sent me out an SMO reflector for the MT07 - they asked $15 for it, not bad, so I paid them, just didn’t get a shipping confirmation. They said they made 30 of them, but other BLFers who emailed them for it haven’t gotten a response from them.

I only saw one wire connection off the square phosphor area, and pretty sure I saw a typical tiny gold wire broken off of it. Think the XM-L2’s have that extra wire you could break off - think it was for static protection or something? Was hoping that’s what it was on a 70.2.

Edit: We got some low fast moving clouds going by now,and took out the BOSS1, direct drive, dedomed XPL V6, and was able hit the clouds! First time I’ve done that. Measure throw over 700 kcd with this setup.

Here is a crummy pic… left click, click view image, then click on the 70.2 and you should be able to blow it up a bit?

That is a good deal for that massive reflector, I paid $40.00 for (2) TN42 reflectors and (2) lens from Thrunite.

[Tom_E]

Ok, I got this freak'n burnt out 70.2 work'n!

The contact point in the lower right at the edge of the board is what I thought had a wire - not sure now. There's another one on the top as well. So here it is with the burn mark. Weird thing is the black stuff just scraped off - used a very sharp Exacto

Here's the dome, notice some yellow, not much:

After more scraping, cutting, and the cleanup, really not that bad:

So this abused, misused LED is working, and pretty darn good! Love the tint, love the beam pattern from the OP.

Rough #'s are 296 kcd taken at 5m, and 8,100 lumens in the MT07, with the HQ BLF SRK V3.4 driver, 1 7135, 404 FET.

I made sooo many mistakes with this mod, amazed anything survived, plus weird things happening in some tests, then it all works like it should - I don't get it...

Ohhh - no yellow ring round the hot spot now, nice creamy color - how can so many things go wrong, and come out right?

Dunno why the MT07 isn't more popular - it's built like a tank, very moddable, and they got some good deals goin on it now. freeme has code MTGB for $73. What I really like about it, compared to an L6 or S70S is that there's 4 18650 cells in 2S2P instead of 2 26650's, so you get less resistance, little more capacity. Ok, it's not the slickest look'n light around...

[AlexGT]

Maybe that burned black stuff was a thin piece of cloth fiber like the ones that are floating around in the air and like to land on reflectors…

Looks good! I was thinking in maybe doing a push cut like Vinh54 does

How to Shave Dome on XHP-70