this technique inspired the way I plan to shave the xp-g2 for my contest entry and eventually my chimera. Differences: blade brand and use of a shim ring for a more even cut and I’ll be using Polsilver Iridium blades rather than the Derby Extra (I got 5x for a good price)
I like to use a finishing stone afterwards to polish the silicone. I believe a rough surface can cause these burn spots due to local magnification. It looks a lot nicer in a light too. I’m OCD about how the LED/mcpcb looks inside the light.
EDIT: +1 on using a shim. Just make sure the LED is soldered on flat (parallel) to the MCPCB… Ask me how I know :person_facepalming:
Posted this back a few years ago. The shim is set tight to the dome and the LED pad.
Keeping the shim on while I sand the dome flat using a fine paper and then polish with paste.
Only had a couple burn, usually something foreign fell onto the flattened dome, or left over after sanding. They were saved by scraping/ shaving the burnt stuff off. I just had to clean/scrub really well with a high strength alcohol after altering the dome.
KB - you could have just said: been there, done that 
. Interesting, so I take it you've moved on from dicing, slicing, sanding by using the chemical method.
I'd say with mine, I've lost roughly - 10% in lumens, maybe added 40-50% in kcd. I don't have a clear before/after though, so hard to be sure. I've hit 9,000 lumens on the same LED in the L6 on full cells, where this was 8,100 on cells slightly under max, ~4.05V or so.
Did you use a sanded down copper penny KawiBoy1428? What is the thickness of the shim? How did you make the center hole? What drill bit size?
Not much luck with the Hot Chemical de-dome with the Old XHP70’s, seems the dome is pocketed into the phosphorus, and pad, when the dome released it took some of the phosphorus with it, it was just too fast of a release and didn’t give it time to fully loose itself of the phosphorus, remember MEM said slow and easy, I think he was right.
Alex I’ll measure it up when I get home tonight. I’ll send it to you if you want to use it, just promise to send it back when your done K! 
:+1:
The I.D. measures 6.9mm and the thickness .700mm.
I had another question to those who have ordered LEDs for themselves: is there any way to tell the tint binning of the LEd you’re ordering? All I can tell is the flux bin, but not the tint bin (whether it slots in above or below the BBL)
For example, for a 4000k emitter one there is 5B, 5C, 5A, 5D.
I got a 2step 80cri 3000k XHP70.2 emitter in my L6 currently, but I’m not sure if its tint was worth the lumen tradeoff. It definitely doesn’t seem as nice as the XHP35HI in my Zebralight. (hotspot and corona are a tad greenish compared to spill— spill illluminates my hand as fleshy pink-neutral, while hotspot makes it orangy)
I was thinking getting a higher flux binned 4000k emitter would be nice, but only if I could minimize any green.
Also, do higher flux bins produce more green than lower flux bins?
So what is the verdict on dome slicing these 70.2 emitters? Is the beam ok? What does it do to the color etc?
is the P2 3B the highest bin for this led in 5000k?
Yes P2 is currently the highest.
Please send code for NW Thanks
Ya, its ok my fault, I had several tabs open and by accident posted on the wrong one. :person_facepalming: Thanks for point it out!
(Was suppose to be in the GB thread for HaikeLite MT03 II Devourer Triple XHP70.2, had this thread open to read about 70.2)
I have several xhp70.2 and some xhp50.2 LED’s coming in thanks to Lumintop.
I plan to put one of each on the sphere to get some comparison numbers. Then going to see what they look like in the GT….
The old xhp70 already looks pretty good even at a mere ~3000 lumens except for a bad dark spot. Still it does over 1000m of throw.
Gonna try bumping the power up to 2x or higher and see what happens as well.
Can’t wait for the results. Please take beamshot pics!
Will there be any real world difference using a 70.2 in my L6 that I could notice? and is it possible to just buy a 70.2 on a star and just solder it on after removing the 70?
It depends on the total package. On a stock reflector and stock driver you won’t see much difference.
Sure. Since your in Canada you might try Mountain Electronics.
[quote=JasonWW]
It depends on the total package. On a stock reflector and stock driver you won’t see much difference.
[/quote=JasonWW]
I have few L6's and one has the smooth reflector. What do you think would be the difference that I could notice?
With a smooth reflector you will get a smother hotspot. The xhp70 has more of a dark center or donut hole pattern.
These low exposure shots show the difference well.
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