Yeah. I’ll have to check the switch when I get home. Thank you. I’ll post my findings.
Does the MT03 have a single color switch led?
If so, and it has 4 wires from the switch, then you might have 2 switch wires and 2 seperate wires for the switch led. Then it would not matter which switch wire was positive or negative. It’s just a on/off switch.
Maybe you wired the led wires to the switch locations? The led wires are a closed circuit and the driver thinks your holding the button down.
Alright so I am pretty new to wiring, schematics, circuit boards, etc. All I can do is solder and I got the driver in working. I tested the MF01 switch and using the black switch wire as the negative and the the red wire as positive with my multimeter in diode test mode it illuminates the green LED. I tried to light the green and red LED at the same time and I could only get them to respond individually. I have my board set up as below:
Now I didn’t want to try it and have it not work so I just waited to ask. Would soldering the wire that is the LED’s (+) to the pad where the red arrow is pointing allow it to function as the indicator light? Do I need to mess with anything within the green box or do I need to use a solder bridge/jumper? I read through as much as I could and I still couldn’t clearly understand how it’s supposed to work.
switch has 4 wires
Black is labeled K-
Red is labeled K1
Blue is labeled R
Yellow is labeled G or C
the switch itself has a red and a blue LED
came home and the light worked fine for about a minute, then it ramped up again, now it wont turn on, what the heck?!
yeah it would be great if there was a picture just pointing out where to solder stuff, i know most stuff here is DIY and wont have instructions but a picture with some arrows would be nice, when i figure this out I WILL make the picture if thats what it takes, lol.
Jtm94, the MF01 is a different beast from BeardedRaleigh’s MT03. The switch and switch wires are going to be all different.
BeardedRaleigh, did you identify your black and red switch wires as going to the switch? So normally open circuit, then press the button and the circuit closes?
With a red and blue led the switch pcb has to be sharing a common ground or common positive.
It’s best to map them out on paper so they make sense.
You can see how I did my Supfire switch here. My Supfire L5-S, XHP70, lighted switch and TA FET driver - #2 by JasonWW
It happened to have a common positive which is not what I needed. You can tell by the orientation of the leds. So to switch mine to a common negative I had to swap both leds around.
Anyway, I then had one positive wire to the switch, one positive wire to the blue led and one positive wire to the pink led and all 3 shared a common ground.
This probably doesn’t help you find the pads on the driver you need as that is something Lexel has to identify, but it might help you later on when you want to get the leds working. You’ll either need to make one led work or wire them so both will work as either the “indicator” light in NarsilM or just a “power on” light.
Thank you JasonWW and jtm94. I swapped the switch wires and it seems to be working so far.
As for the LEDs they would not stay lit at the same time as jtm94 said. When I find out where the switch led wires are supposed to go I’ll figure the rest out. For now it works!
I am aware every light is going to be different I wasn’t trying to apply what he was learning about the MT03 to my light, but use it as a stepping point towards learning what I must do on my own.
Alright so the black switch wire is common negative and everything else is positive. This seems opposite of your Supfire switch. Would I have to run a wire from the (-) pad to that side of the switch in order to power the LED? I assume no power is running to the switch pads it’s only used as a signal, so I would need to route the power needed from elsewhere.
Glad I could be of some use BeardedRaleigh!
When I had my switch wires the other way (black on the left) i could touch the LED wires to power and they would light up, only one at a time though.
dont know what any of that means, just wanted to put it out there.
EDIT: I left switch LEDs alone this time around, just wanted it to work for the night! lol
AS I SIT HERE JUST NOW the light ramps up on its own again, what the hell?!
Just switching those black and red wires should not do anything. If those are the wires to the switch, then polarity doesn’t matter.
We need to wait and hear from Lexel which pads on the drivers we need to use.
It might be helpful for both of you guys to take pictures of your driver swaps and start your own threads so that others can learn from it. Then the next person who wants to do a driver swap in the mf01 or mt03 can just go to your threads and get all the info.
I know Tom E did a driver swap in the MT03, but he didn’t take many pictures or do a whole thread on it. He did a small write up in the “What did you mod today” thread, but I can never find his info when I need it.
Good idea, ill do that.
Are we talking about your mt03 and you traced the switch wires?
If you think your switch has a common ground wire then it should be like the supfire drawing I did that says “it needs to be”. It is also how the convoy l6 switch pcb is. You can find both links in my sig.
The common ground can be wired to any driver ground source (maybe? I can’t remember for sure. Maybe not. I’m not thinking straight at the moment, I need sleep.) The positive lead for the switch has to come from a specific pad on the driver which is connected to an mcu leg. When this specific pad is grounded, the mcu knows the switch is being pressed.
The other two positive wires for the led lights are a bit tricky. You can run one or both and the resistor value you use depends on a couple of factors. We can talk about those later. I did mention more details about them in my two build links in my sig, though.
It’s alright. I think I just smoked my switch LEDs trying some things out. It’s for the better because now I’ll stop messing with it haha. It’s far more effort than I care for just for the switch LED. As long as the light functions then I’m happy and everything works as it should. :+1:
I wanted to do a thread on it, but I really wouldn’t have done more than Mizou did in his thread. Everything was quite easy I used Mizou’s thread to know which switch pads to use, but he didn’t use the LED indicator. I should have realized I needed the voltage divider in order to not fry the switch LEDs. :person_facepalming:
Ill have to school myself on the switch more tomorrow, I still cant figure out why the light is acting up on its own I mean it sat next to me for 15 minuets and then just started ramping up, switch led wires are not being used at the moment. I started a thread, if you are interested we could talk about this stuff over there, thank you for your help so far.
Oh, thanks for the link.
Most of those tiny leds are 2v maybe 2.5v so even with a single battery light you have to have a resistor. 5k, 15k something like that depending on the input voltage and if it’s one or 2 leds in parallel.
I think both of you guys use the same basic driver. Anyway, I think I figured it out.
BeardedRaleigh, you seem to be using the correct pads, but something is happening. Is the switch boot on properly or maybe it’s pressing on the switch?
Jtm94, you can see where the resistor needs to go. If you touch the led wire to the right 2 pads pads in the green square you drew, it will probably fry them. The left 2 pads are probably not connected to anything. They are there for the led to solder to. The tge far left pad is an easy spot for the wire to solder to.
is there any driver for haikelite mt07s, and what is its price
thanks
THANKYOU for an actual picture! And info. I will check out my switch tomorrow and report on my thread.
Love this forum.