Just switching those black and red wires should not do anything. If those are the wires to the switch, then polarity doesn’t matter.
We need to wait and hear from Lexel which pads on the drivers we need to use.
It might be helpful for both of you guys to take pictures of your driver swaps and start your own threads so that others can learn from it. Then the next person who wants to do a driver swap in the mf01 or mt03 can just go to your threads and get all the info.
I know Tom E did a driver swap in the MT03, but he didn’t take many pictures or do a whole thread on it. He did a small write up in the “What did you mod today” thread, but I can never find his info when I need it.
Good idea, ill do that.
Are we talking about your mt03 and you traced the switch wires?
If you think your switch has a common ground wire then it should be like the supfire drawing I did that says “it needs to be”. It is also how the convoy l6 switch pcb is. You can find both links in my sig.
The common ground can be wired to any driver ground source (maybe? I can’t remember for sure. Maybe not. I’m not thinking straight at the moment, I need sleep.) The positive lead for the switch has to come from a specific pad on the driver which is connected to an mcu leg. When this specific pad is grounded, the mcu knows the switch is being pressed.
The other two positive wires for the led lights are a bit tricky. You can run one or both and the resistor value you use depends on a couple of factors. We can talk about those later. I did mention more details about them in my two build links in my sig, though.
It’s alright. I think I just smoked my switch LEDs trying some things out. It’s for the better because now I’ll stop messing with it haha. It’s far more effort than I care for just for the switch LED. As long as the light functions then I’m happy and everything works as it should. :+1:
I wanted to do a thread on it, but I really wouldn’t have done more than Mizou did in his thread. Everything was quite easy I used Mizou’s thread to know which switch pads to use, but he didn’t use the LED indicator. I should have realized I needed the voltage divider in order to not fry the switch LEDs. :person_facepalming:
Ill have to school myself on the switch more tomorrow, I still cant figure out why the light is acting up on its own I mean it sat next to me for 15 minuets and then just started ramping up, switch led wires are not being used at the moment. I started a thread, if you are interested we could talk about this stuff over there, thank you for your help so far.
Oh, thanks for the link.
Most of those tiny leds are 2v maybe 2.5v so even with a single battery light you have to have a resistor. 5k, 15k something like that depending on the input voltage and if it’s one or 2 leds in parallel.
I think both of you guys use the same basic driver. Anyway, I think I figured it out.
BeardedRaleigh, you seem to be using the correct pads, but something is happening. Is the switch boot on properly or maybe it’s pressing on the switch?
Jtm94, you can see where the resistor needs to go. If you touch the led wire to the right 2 pads pads in the green square you drew, it will probably fry them. The left 2 pads are probably not connected to anything. They are there for the led to solder to. The tge far left pad is an easy spot for the wire to solder to.
is there any driver for haikelite mt07s, and what is its price
thanks
THANKYOU for an actual picture! And info. I will check out my switch tomorrow and report on my thread.
Love this forum.
I think that light uses an xhp35 and runs at 6v? If so, it needs a 6v to 12v boost driver. I don’t remember Lexel offering any boost drivers.
If it had a battery carrier then it could be modded to run 4S at 12v then use Lexels new GT driver. Since that light does not use a battery carrier (I’m not too familiar with it) it might be a bit harder to swap the driver in it.
Anyway, let’s hear what Lexel says.
Edit: I see I was looking at the HI version of the mt07s. Do you have that one or the 70.2 version? If it’s the 70.2, then it might be a 6v emitter and driver, which would be easy for Lexel to make.
After 8 seconds permanent switch press the light gets in programming mode, so this error is a permanent negative signal on the right switch pad
If the light acts up ramping alone then there is only one cause of this
The ground, which is very likely on the body gets to the right switch pad, this can happen if a wire or solder pad of the switch assembly touches something that is grounded
If you do not use the LEDs then unsolder their wires from the switch board
The switch has common ground on the left pad if this gets connected to the right pad the MCU detects a press of the switch
So the LED minus goes to left switch pad
To reduce false signals it is possible to add a 1kOhms resistor to the switches right pad
If the LEDs have common anode with the switch the wires will trigger a switch signal if their unused wires touch ground inside the light, in this case to get them work you have to change their orientation on the board
i have xhp70.2 version
the led is quite under driven to me(4500 lumen), i hope i can get to 7500-8000 lumen
i like the ramping UI too
If the battery carrier is 2S/2P and LED MCPCB 6V or you mod it that way my TA DD+AMC7135 driver works,
the buck driver will be 4S with 12V LED star wiring to get to a very high output
That should be easy for Lexel to do. It will probably cost about $20 to $23 total. I’m sure Lexel will PM you all the details and the exact price depending on the options you want.
Most 70.2 lights running 2 x 26650 get about 18 amps on turbo. I’m thinking 2S2P with 18650 cells should deliver the same, if not more. Let us know the outcome. 
Price reduced a bit due to new board manufactory
Im just measure of the stock driver. It’s 46mm(45.93mm exactly)
I believe it’s buck driver, the shunt resitor is R056 parallel R082
But the battery carriage is 4s, so i guess no DD for me
I gonna do resistor mod, the stock driver uses 2 6N30 mosfet, very powerful
Okay, so they are using the 12v 70.2. Interesting. That stock driver might not handle much more power. Lexels GT driver can do 5A at 12v, maybe 6A. Just like the GT, you could probably get 6,000 lumen from a 70.2.
Or do like Vinh did with the Mateminco MT35. Pull out the emitter and driver, put 6v stuff in it and then mod the batteries to 2S2P. That will work also.
So i just do the resistor mod. Add another R050
Quick test with ceiling bounce, the lux go from 515 to 700 lux
But after 2 min the driver fail, now the light wont turn on, but the led switch is still working :person_facepalming:
Updated: it turned out the diode of the buck broken
Replace the diode with the one in computer PSU, works again 
BLF Buck driver with upgraded parts will output 8A well within specification of those parts, this will put a sinle XHP70.2 to the 7k OTF range
If you want to get the output of a Buck driver higher there are 2 critical and 2 potential part to upgrade
Critical are inductor and especially the Diode
MOSFET may be driven beyond specs and adding capacitors helps get better efficiency