Yes, please include the resistors for the side switch LED. Let’s do bright…
I’ll PM you my shipping info.
Received and everything is great! I admittedly just skipped the switch indicator light as I wasn’t 100% sure what needed to be done, but may revisit it later. Getting 15,000 out of my MF01 now with all the ramping goodness of Narsil.
Thanks Lexel! :laughing:
Got my driver today! i know where LED + and - go but curious about switch + - and switch LED? anyone have pics of their MT03 all wired up?
- Is this correct?
switch ground is on left side, this is one of my test lead solder points
What about switch led wires?
Sorry for the questions it’s my first time on one of these.
so i wired it like you said and all im getting is as soon as i power it up it ramps all the way up and then stays in turbo for around ten seconds and then shuts off and blinks out………blink blink pause blink.
any idea whats happening?
blue and yellow wires are not touching anything, looks like it sorry.
Did you map out all the switch wires? I don’t have an MT03 so I can tell you if it’s a common ground or common positive switch pcb. I’m guessing the yellow and blue go to the 2 different color leds positives?
It sounds like the switch is in a closed position meaning it thinks the button is being help down. It ramps up to turbo then goes into the programming mode.
Yeah. I’ll have to check the switch when I get home. Thank you. I’ll post my findings.
Does the MT03 have a single color switch led?
If so, and it has 4 wires from the switch, then you might have 2 switch wires and 2 seperate wires for the switch led. Then it would not matter which switch wire was positive or negative. It’s just a on/off switch.
Maybe you wired the led wires to the switch locations? The led wires are a closed circuit and the driver thinks your holding the button down.
Alright so I am pretty new to wiring, schematics, circuit boards, etc. All I can do is solder and I got the driver in working. I tested the MF01 switch and using the black switch wire as the negative and the the red wire as positive with my multimeter in diode test mode it illuminates the green LED. I tried to light the green and red LED at the same time and I could only get them to respond individually. I have my board set up as below:
Now I didn’t want to try it and have it not work so I just waited to ask. Would soldering the wire that is the LED’s (+) to the pad where the red arrow is pointing allow it to function as the indicator light? Do I need to mess with anything within the green box or do I need to use a solder bridge/jumper? I read through as much as I could and I still couldn’t clearly understand how it’s supposed to work.
switch has 4 wires
Black is labeled K-
Red is labeled K1
Blue is labeled R
Yellow is labeled G or C
the switch itself has a red and a blue LED
came home and the light worked fine for about a minute, then it ramped up again, now it wont turn on, what the heck?!
yeah it would be great if there was a picture just pointing out where to solder stuff, i know most stuff here is DIY and wont have instructions but a picture with some arrows would be nice, when i figure this out I WILL make the picture if thats what it takes, lol.
Jtm94, the MF01 is a different beast from BeardedRaleigh’s MT03. The switch and switch wires are going to be all different.
BeardedRaleigh, did you identify your black and red switch wires as going to the switch? So normally open circuit, then press the button and the circuit closes?
With a red and blue led the switch pcb has to be sharing a common ground or common positive.
It’s best to map them out on paper so they make sense.
You can see how I did my Supfire switch here. My Supfire L5-S, XHP70, lighted switch and TA FET driver - #2 by JasonWW
It happened to have a common positive which is not what I needed. You can tell by the orientation of the leds. So to switch mine to a common negative I had to swap both leds around.
Anyway, I then had one positive wire to the switch, one positive wire to the blue led and one positive wire to the pink led and all 3 shared a common ground.
This probably doesn’t help you find the pads on the driver you need as that is something Lexel has to identify, but it might help you later on when you want to get the leds working. You’ll either need to make one led work or wire them so both will work as either the “indicator” light in NarsilM or just a “power on” light.
Thank you JasonWW and jtm94. I swapped the switch wires and it seems to be working so far.
As for the LEDs they would not stay lit at the same time as jtm94 said. When I find out where the switch led wires are supposed to go I’ll figure the rest out. For now it works!
I am aware every light is going to be different I wasn’t trying to apply what he was learning about the MT03 to my light, but use it as a stepping point towards learning what I must do on my own.
Alright so the black switch wire is common negative and everything else is positive. This seems opposite of your Supfire switch. Would I have to run a wire from the (-) pad to that side of the switch in order to power the LED? I assume no power is running to the switch pads it’s only used as a signal, so I would need to route the power needed from elsewhere.
Glad I could be of some use BeardedRaleigh!
When I had my switch wires the other way (black on the left) i could touch the LED wires to power and they would light up, only one at a time though.
dont know what any of that means, just wanted to put it out there.
EDIT: I left switch LEDs alone this time around, just wanted it to work for the night! lol
AS I SIT HERE JUST NOW the light ramps up on its own again, what the hell?!