You are sure it’s Ti right (and not SS)? Just making sure I should be asking for a Ti bezel specifically.
OMG how retarded. Thankfully I didnt oder this time. I learned that from my Gen 1 PL47 and E07
Would it be ok to use a 30q with the sst-20s?
Yes that wont even stress them. I dont think any 18650 could cause an issue to be honest.
Pretty sure? I mean anything is possible, obviously, but I think its ti. Its non-magnetic, is not noticeably heavy when I remove it, like I’d expect with steel, and its got that “light gray” color you expect from ti - not as silvery as SS. So yeah I think its ti….but I could be wrong. shrug
Really just eyeballing it and making sure it wasn’t magnetic is good enough for me. Just want to explicitly ask for Ti when/if I contact them about it. Thanks
Going to play with it a little tonight and see how everything else is put together.
that thing is gorgeous! what color aux LEDs?
Are you sure it’s not just coated stainless steel? As I mentioned earlier fireflies told me their coating colors the stainless to look like copper.
wow…it look nice tho.
I’ve seen the option 1/4, 2/4, 3/4 and the full Cu version. Embarrassing, what is the possibility of getting a completely personalized version?
Possibilities:
Bezel: Cu Ss or Ti
Head: Alu or Cu
Body: Alu, Cu or Ti
Tail: Alu, Cu Ti or SS
So that makes your favorite combination a chance of one in 72, are you feeling lucky today? :party:
haha I do not belong to the lucky ones
the question of full personalization:
72x 5 (led emitters)
360x 2 (coating and without)
720x 2 (old and new switch)
1440x 4 (Aux option)
full opportunity: 1/5760
Someone on reddit got 2x CuTi with copper bezels too
Figured I would test the 219B just to make sure they are still the same bin as before.
~Mid to Turbo on stepped ramp:
DUV was –0.0083 to –0.0150 and 9090+ CRI at all levels.
@WastedNihilist, why would they spend the money on plating stainless steel?
On small runs, if you have your own hardware/tools to manufacture copper lights, it’s just better to make a copper bezel rather than plating stainless steel.
While stainless steel isn’t as hard to plate as aluminium, stainless steel is still hard and expensive to plate vs other metals.
Yea it’s a perfect match to the body and nothing unusual on the threaded side either. If this is what you get for your replacement bezel you should not worry.
I don’t have my original E07 anymore to compare but the switch seems like maybe it has a more firm nub or something. It’s nothing like a Emisar but I feel like I can feel the click more even though it’s a short travel and not really audible still.
hey ya that’s me. i’ll just copy and paste what i wrote there. https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/c9nt37/nld_fireflies_e07_ticu_theyre_here/
Looks like I got I got the Ti/Cu version with the copper color bezel, lottery i guess??
I opted for the clear coat on the copper. I received the light vacuum sealed, kinda pointless for mine since I got the clear coat on the copper… BUT I see imprinting of the vacuum seal pattern on one of the flashlights, which is kinda annoying.
Got the switch and aux LEDS in red. what’s interesting is that one of the flashlights has dimmer aux/switch LEDS than the other.
LEDs are the 219b 4500K. I think I’ll only use these during the daytime. I honestly really like 2000K and 2700K for most of my lights. my other favorite “daytime” light is the zebralight mod from bob_mcbob with a 219b sw35.
One thing that surprised me is the heft of the flashlight, which i really like. it’s 11.1oz/315g with the battery installed. the center of gravity with battery installed is just above where the Ti and Cu meet on the Cu side. without the battery, it totally feels lopsided.
The battery cap is a bit harder to screw on than the aluminum version as far as I can remember. i don’t have the aluminum E07 anymore to compare.
overall quite happy with it. i want a d4v2 in Ti/Cu with 2700K sst20 now.
one issue: one of the lights i can’t mechanically lock out with a quarter turn. If i barely screw on the cap, the aux/switch leds turn on. does anyone know what’s up with that? if i switch battery caps, the behavior switches… maybe it’s something to do with that? everything is screwed tight.
Btw to answer your last question you can’t reliably lock out flashlights that are not anodized. The threads are conductive.