How much output is lost between 30T vs 40T? I do have a 50E but don’t have the light yet.
I asked on the E07vn CPF thread and am awaiting a response.
I think that I remember him saying that he was awaiting his 30t’s to come in. He may not answer until they do.
What is the average lead time of the EO7 actually being shipped / posted.
I have a 40T and 30T on
The way, I let you know Friday hopefully
Sounds good. Enjoyed your video review.
You probably lose about 10% output but at some point when the battery is less than fully charged the 40T should pull ahead. Probably after about 1000mAh the 40T will start to be better.
Flashaholics, test see if you can take a reading every 15s for a full minute or something or possibly do 30s bursts in intervals and do like 4-5 of them. Should be interesting to see how things progress.
Note to the assembly team at Fireflies. Thermal paste is very important. My SST-20’s went blue in about 20 seconds on a 30T cell… gee, wonder why…
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dumb question here, but can someone please tell me what ‘went blue’ means. Does that mean kaput? Because in a later post I think I read that Dale indicated his light still works?
thanks.
and regarding Fireflies comment on cells, am I ok running my SST-20 on a 30Q cell without harming anything. Don’t want to ruin this nice light 
Reset thermal to 60c. Still only hit 1400 lms and immediate drop to 500. Jack says it should hit 2300 high , 4800 turbo. (SST20 5000k ) Cleaned every thing checked everything I know to do . Anyone have a suggestion ?
(1) Double-check to make sure you aren’t in Muggle Mode (6 clicks).
(2) Remove star, bevel bottom edges of star, reinsert star with fresh thermal paste.
Has your battery powered other powerful lights successfully?
Good point.
What battery are you using? Is it fully charged? Is it a high-discharge battery? Have you tried it in other lights? Perhaps try a different battery and see if you get the same result.
As led’s overheat they suffer a [pretty drastic] blue shift. I.e. the lights CCT moves to a more cool white light and in extreme cases can even go to full on blue light.
I use to do some contract work for LedEngin testing some of their LZ1 emitters and experienced the full out blue shift then but that’s the most extreme case I’ve ever seen and the only time I actually saw a white led output blue light, the LED died quickly after that. Usually they only shift to more cool (but still white) light and will (again usually) still work after they cool back down when the shift isn’t as extreme.
I have a rot66 with similar problems. After several trials it now no longer turns on even the aux/switch leds. So if after you check for battery and contact problems the low output persists it may be a driver problem.
Even 5D tint varies from neutral to rosy. I have over half a dozen 5D tint lights and some are rosier than others. My Noctigon M43 with XP-G2 5D is far rosier than the M43 with XP-L HI 5D and even different XP-L HI 5D emitters produce varying levels of rosiness. The M43 with the XP-G2 5D is rosier than my 219B 4000k 9080 lights for most of the output range. None of the 5D tinted lights are greener than my E07 with the SST-20 4000k FA3 tint bin. You might want to get a M43 with the XP-G2 to compare. It is the cheapest version and also the brightest version per my measurements.
Yeah , tried 40T , 50E ,30T. Straight off charger , it won’t due more than 1500 lms. Then hit turbo , doesn’t go up , just instantly drops to about 500. I just sent Jack a video of it on lumen tester , he said he’d take care of it . The other one works just fine , so I guess this one is a dud . You’ll have that occasionally with mass produced things.
Thanks for the input though , I really appreciate it :+1:
So if after you check for battery and contact problems the low output persists it may be a driver problem.
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That’s kinda what I’m guessin
Which is the easiest way to desolder the old emitters btw? I only soldered throughole and SMD stuff where I could do it directly with a soldering iron.
Skillet + tweezers
Hot air station is the easiest by far.
Way I typically desolder or resolder old emitters:
- remove star from light
- place star in wooden clothespin held in a small metal table vise.
- Heat the underside of the star with device held in left hand. I used to do this with a really old 40 watt soldering iron and it took awhile. Also, afterwards I’d have to run a file over the bottom of the star to remove any excess solder. Nowadays I use the heat gun from a hot-air soldering rework station. Hold it to the underside of the star and typically within less than 30 seconds the star is hot enough that all solder attached to it melts.
- Once the solder melts, use tweezers held in right hand to remove SMD devices from the surface of the star.
- Swap in new emitters, then heat until solder around them melts and they jump into position. I also usually add a bit of additional solder paste with a toothpick if I am installing fresh emitters.
- let star cool, then replace into light. My small table vise has an anvil built in. I usually put stars on that to help them cool down much faster.
I’ve also found that in some cases, I can reflow individual LEDs by sticking the LED almost inside the nozzle of my heat gun and then using a tweezers to remove the LED as soon as it melts. However, I still prefer my method of heating the entire star uniformly from the underside as it gives dependable results.