FireflyLite E12R 12*emitters 15000LM 1x21700 Flashlight

If you followed the Texas Ace Lumen Sphere thread several years ago, you will see that the lumen calibrations you read online are all over the place. Maukka is the only one with an ultra expensive professionally calibrated lumen measurement system, which is why he sold calibration lights to the DIY lumen measuring folks like us. Maukka calibration usually measures much lower than what other people are measuring. Only Fenix and Olight specs match Maukka lumens for the most part. Other large manufacturers like Acebeam, Thrunite, Zebralight, etc. are generally 15% to 30% higher than Maukka lumens.

I remember measuring quad 219B FET lights in the past at about 1300 lumens only and only last for a few seconds so if this thing can regulate sw45k at 1400 lumens for even a few minutes, that would be quite an amazing feat

Thanks Pavlo, that’s a good way to look at it. 50% brighter sounds nice. Maybe my X6 emits only around 1000 lm. It just looks much brighter than my Zebra SC600 MKII L2 and measures 20 lux ceiling bounce vs 15 lux for the Zebra. But yeah, ceiling bounce… X6 - one fat hotspot, Zebra - hot spot, very wide spill… Not accurate and hard to compare by eye.

Also thanks, SKV89, I haven’t been a regular follower of the forums the last couple of years. Thanks for shedding some light.

It seem like you are one of few people who has new noctigon K9.3 and E12R; if you have time can you do compairson with the two and some photos? I am looking forward for more review for this two exciting flashlights!

I really don’t have the will or time. :frowning: I will write some very quick thoughts. I will try and post a few pictures later.

The K9.3 is taller, heavier and all around larger, not by a lot but enough to notice. The K9.3 didn’t come with a clip for pocket carry or a magnet to attach the light to metal, the E12R does. The charging port is hidden behind threads on the K9.3 (which many love, and I understand why) and that prevents you from charging the flashlight while using it. If you are going to carry the light I would go with the E12R. If you are looking for an all around great house light, I think the K9.3 does very well. For me the more efficient driver seals the deal to make the E12R EDC.

Thank you, I think that summary make sense. I will considering ordering! I hear E07X coming out so maybe that may be smaller version of E12R and the blue looks nice too.

Mine arrived this morning. Feels quite nice in the hand and well built. The packaging is a bit fancier that what I’ve seen before. Never had Nichia LEDs so this evening I can’t wait to try it out.

Just received my ER12 to the US.

Bottom tail cap threads are really bad. Never have received a flashlight that was so rough when loosening and tightening the tail cap.

Did use some grease over the threads. This has helped, but still pretty bad.

Using 21700 battery instantly the tail cap (magnetic) touches the battery LED light turns on even without tightening. This is also a first for me. With my Fireflies E07 can unscrew slightly to use a a lockout mode while tail cap stays on.

Tail cap thread feels rough on mine when the tail clip pushes against the tail cap. Take the clip off and it’s fine

Can we see some photos of threads issue?

https://i.imgur.com/nZR5cH9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lxlN7dq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iiHjr28.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/sdMHnKa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/MgNDaOO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZidorD9.jpg

Ohhhh they’re non-anodized. At first I was wondering if maybe the tube was on backwards but the images in the OP shows that’s how it’s supposed to be.

Oh boy, that is such a bummer! I hate non-anodized threads. Why, just why?

They weren’t anodized in the pre-production pictures and it seems like nobody said something about it.

Maybe Jack can produce a run of new tubes with anodized threads?

Quoting my original post. My error with having a 21700 battery inserted. You need to remove the tail spring then use the additional piece Fireflies supplied and place in the tail cap.
You can then loosen the tail cap slightly and lock out usage.

MD, Both body and cap are crap!

That light must have slipped by quality control, does FF even have QC idk

Agreed the threads, body & cap should be anodized. But man alive I’ve never seen such crappy cut threads!

If you haven’t already… send the images to Jack

… and please post results

Oh shock… So there is mechanical lock out possibility? Could you please post a picture of that additional piece you’re talking about?

I wonder if BAWS could be kind enough to post photos of his tail cap threads and body for a quick comparison?

The bottom thread is so bad uneven. See this image: https://i.imgur.com/nHH5iyB.jpg

Will reach out to Jack. Does he have a different email besides their main one ff-light@hotmail.com ?

https://i.imgur.com/mOgCKuL.jpg

Is only the tail cap nonanodize? Maybe fireflies design this so that you are only suppose to open flashlight from the top like FW3A, and bottom it is non anodize for high current contact?

And then there’s Convoy that sells some of the most inexpensive flashlights and hosts. Their threads are (Acme) clean and accurately cut… Go figure!

Jack should look into having Convoy do their all CAD/CAM machining

Thanks, MD

To me, this thing looks more like a spacer if you were to remove the magnet.