I tend to be critical of everything, doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy things, I quite like this light.
About the end of the tube, it does fully make contact with the tail cap when the clip is removed, the inner diameter of the tube is 22.15mm and the contact self on in the tail cap is 22mm, though not with the full thickness of the tube unlike on the head side because it is chamfered, but the tube being very thick it still has a surface of contact of arround 60mm² which is quite large and has negligible resistance. So they could anodise it and go with the Noctigon KRx solution with the O-ring mentionned by toobadorz, though I don’t own a KRx so I don’t know how good this solution is.
If they want to keep the exposed threads they could put big square threads on the head sides (same threads on both side), for swapping cell from the front and it would be perfectly good.
About the flickering, some users reported flickering with the lume1 driver while others not, both drivers most likely use the same feedback circuit so it makes sense to see the same variation here.
Also checked loneoceans repo, I don’t see config for 219b. Is it safe to run them full FET? FET not PWM’d in single config I see in repo, there is only 100% on level 150/150
In direct drive with a 30amp battery, you will get about 2.5 amps per LED (at best). The 219B LED is rated a maximum of 2 amps, so this is only a little above the spec’d max rating.
In the E07, not safe, but in the E12R, I wouldn’t worry.
I get 20.5A on turbo at turn on with a molicel P42A, fully charged in the flashligh (4.19V) (measured with a 20cm 4mm² cable ~1mΩ, and a currrent clamp). So it’s quite fine.
Edit : I thought that was maybe bit low so I checked again : 24.1A, it’s possible it’s my current clamp was acting up (UT210E) sometimes it shows wrong values and need to be turned off/on, this time I checked beforehand against a know current source. I get 22.5A with a 50E2 (well above its 10A CDR).
The cell max continuous rating is just a safe limit given by the manufacturer, it doesn’t mean it’ll draw that amount, it can be less or more depending on the resistance of the load.
No those are great :+1:
Thanks for the pics, that looks like a better solution.
Since I was one of the people who did receive a flashlight that did slip through quality control felt I needed to reply.
“You guys…lol. This group could find fault in anything!”
Glad it “hits all the right points for me”. Not sure why you had to write a post other than your thoughts on the flashlight you received. One time maybe in the future you will be on the receiving end of a flashlight that is not working correctly. It was a first time having a problem with a flashlight I bought. My instance wasn’t looking to find a fault. Tail cap doesn’t screw on properly. It’s that simple for me.
Is anyone aware of a code for these? I was on the pre-order list and had that code but had too much going on to get the order placed, but I’d like to pick one up now and the code has expired.
Not sure if there is a frosted one of this size. You can sand the stock optic or add DC-Fix. However, frosted, sanded, or DC-Fix will result in some lumen loss.
On the topic of Optics, does anybody know what specific optic (brand/model/size) FF uses in the E12R?
It would be super cool if FF sold the optics separately. I would love to put a 10 degree optic in the E12R instead of the 35 degree.
Really? I’ve never seen anything above 103 or 104 (though to be clear, that doesn’t mean much). I’d love to see data and have a source of 107Rg emitters.
This light looks really good. I’m unusually tempted by it with the 219Bs.
