First Impressions, Wurkkos FC11C

[jon_slider]

Received a Wurkkos FC11C and tested for Flicker… All but the Low mode have very constant power to the LED… I then DeDomed, because I just prefer that Tint. In this reflector, the DeDome produces an excellent beam, no ragged hotspot artifacts.

The FC11C is quite long and heavy, 111 grams w battery and clip… as heavy as a D3AA plus a TS10:

imo the FC11C is too big and heavy for (my) lightweight slacks pocket carry (with no belt). Would be fine in jeans w a belt maybe, imo it is more suitable for a jacket pocket, backpack, or kept in the house, on a table or counter top… (I just like small lights)

Physical lockout works to prevent accidental activation, although the button is quite flat and not overly prone to being pressed by mistake inside a pocket.

The UI is easy for a muggle… and the USB charging makes it suitable as a Granny light… The main 3 modes have Last Mode Memory, but the 1 lumen moonlight can not be memorized (turbo neither).

The magnetic tail makes it easy to secure the light on top of a refrigerator. But there is no indicator light, that would help locate the light in the dark, and the switch button is not easy to find by feel.

Here is the DeDomed Beam:

Decided to install a 20mm 30° Pebbled Tir, here is the beam… its quite nice…

These are the parts I removed when installing the Tir:

That clear O ring normally sits between the glass and bezel.

The light still has the black O ring (not pictured), that originally fits between the glass and the reflector, now it is between the bezel and optic… so still water resistant… One advantage of using the Tir, is now there is no glass to break. (Tir wont break if the light is dropped.)

[Chris100575 (Chris)]

Where did you get the TIR from please? And did it fit without needing to be sanded?

[jon_slider]

The 20mm Tir comes from here

No sanding, its a direct drop in.

I like the 30°, but for a wider beam the 45° also works well… I tried 25°, but it has a few more artifacts around the outer edge of the beam, so I dont use it…

imo the 30° is the Goldilocks size (“just right”)… still reasonably focused for forward projection, without too many perimeter artifacts.

modding tip
when installing the Tir, the black O ring needs to be kept under the bezel, so it does not get squeezed out when closing the light.

After tightening the bezel, I also went around the optic using a fingernail to gently press the Oring to insure it tucks under the edge of the bezel without protruding too much.

There IS a groove around the Tir for the O ring to seat into. It does not actually try to walk completely out… just sharing a detailed fitment tip.

Another factor to be aware of, since the Tir sits around the LED, and presses directly on the mcpcb with no centering ring… it is possible for the corners of the LED to chew a groove around the inside base of the Tir. You probably would Not notice this if the light is Not reopened.

If the light Is reopened, you may need to clean off any little bits of Tir that could have been scraped by the corners of the LED.

[TIFisher]

I have the ltd. blue version. 4C enters electronic lock-out. In smooth ramping mode I’m finding that “moonlight” is memorized if the light is ramped all the way down, turned off >1H for moon> 1C off, then 1C on returns to “moonlight”. This is my observation by eye. It does not function likewise in stepped mode.
Just throwing this out there.

[jon_slider]

@TIFisher

In smooth ramping mode I’m finding that “moonlight” is memorized if the light is ramped all the way down

Excellent Info! Thank you very much

I switched to smooth ramping (hold from off for 6 seconds, until the light flashes), and confirmed the lowest mode (1 lumen) IS memorized.

note the Flicker Index of the lowest output, 1 lumen, is much higher in Smooth Ramping.:

The low mode on smooth ramping (left side of above image) has a High Risk Flicker Index.

[Chris100575 (Chris)]

Thank you. I really don’t need another light but I do like the beam from a TIR. I’m visiting Amsterdam in a couple of months and am considering picking up something cheap that won’t break my heart if I leave it in a hotel.

[jon_slider]

@Chris100575

I’m visiting Amsterdam in a couple of months

Have a wonderful time!
I like small lights, so I would take a TS10, with a couple of Lumintop 14500 USB-C batteries:

I would disable Turbo… to prevent tripping protection on the battery…

or a Wurkkos HD10 with the stock battery, since the light has built in USB-C charging

[Chris100575 (Chris)]

Thank you.

I might be risking my membership by admitting this but… I don’t own a TS10.

Normally I carry a D4K, I’ll probably end up taking that.

[SammysHP]

@jon_slider

note the Flicker Index is much higher in Smooth Ramping:

It isn’t that simple…

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Let’s start with stepped mode (eco, low, medium, high, turbo). As you can see, only low has a 35kHz (!) modulation, almost sine shaped, thus acceptable snob index.

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In smooth mode it gets interesting. Here are eco (hold from off), lowest ramp (ramp down as much as possible, different from eco!) and two higher levels of brightness. The modulation depth decreases as the light gets brighter and the modulation frequency increases. I could go more into detail of how the buck regulator works, but that’s a different topic.

Let’s have a look at the lowest ramp level zoomed out:

Only 900Hz, but the pulses are very short. If you quickly move the light, you can clearly see the typical dotted pattern.

[jon_slider]

@SammysHP

only low has a 35kHz (!) modulation

thank you for contributing
the Opple gave similar frequency results 33kHz:

@SammysHP

Let’s have a look at the lowest ramp… Only 900Hz

the Opple gave similar results… 940Hz, with a High Risk Flicker Index:

[L37]

@jon_slider

imo the FC11C is too big for pants pocket carry, it is suitable for a jacket pocket, backpack, or kept in the house, on a table or counter top…

18350 changes that though:

There is one more way to make it a few more mm shorter - by using shorter tailcap without magnet, like one from WK03.

I like the way it looks and feels like this though, with copper tube, and did not like it with “golden” WK03 tailcap, so left it as is.

With size like this, the output, the driver and the UI it has… this one is unbelievably good. Nearly perfect.

Also thinking about swapping 3000K SFT40 into one, that should be fun…

[jon_slider]

@L37

With size like this, the output, the driver and the UI it has… this one is unbelievably good. Nearly perfect.

thats a great feeling! When we find a light that fits our needs. Thanks for the photo

I think the charge rate is a bit high for 18350, but not sure how much it matters…

[L37]

@jon_slider

I think the charge rate is a bit high for 18350, but not sure how much it matters…

Yep, charge rate is definitely high. Turbo draws quite a bit for 18350 too. So definitely a good high drain cell is needed.

But it is still within reasonable limits, so is not unsafe, will just wear the battery out faster. Not a big deal IMO, since it is easy and cheap to replace. Also fast charging has its advantages…