Take your torch with it's CW emitter and see if your colors pop like this! These were taken with my Nichia 219 equipped TR-801 without any flash or post-capture adjustments. What you see is how I saw them in real life. If you aren't a tint snob yet, you should be. ;)
Feel free to post your High-CRI photos as well so we can all bask in their loveliness!
Awesome, I have to get some nichea’s to play with. 8) I think a t2 with a 3 mode driver and nichea would be a real nice combination.
Thats nice JohnnyMac, maybe a mouse over with a cool white taken at the same time would make them understand even more. Im trying to no become a tint snob but with some recent purchases I have made its getting hard to look at cool blue white.
Thanks for the pics
Roll-overs of the same object taken with different tint is a great idea. I will have to take a few. 
Becoming a tint snob (although I prefer not to call it that) is not something to resist! Refinements in personal taste typically lead to increased enjoyment and/or appreciation, and that’s nothing but a good thing 
I don’t know if any of you guys are wine lovers, but it’s kinda like how once you’ve sampled a sufficient variety of different wines, over a sufficient period of time, not only have you discovered your favourites, but you’re also in a position to appreciate them even more. There’s a whole other world to be found within the subtleties that you were oblivious to before, and the experience is so much more visceral.
Good shots Johnny 
Thx for the great shots! Have always preferred CW just for sheer ouput amd throw vs. NW (don't care for warm) but have started to appreciate the color rendention and way more importantly the superior depth perception that NW can provide.
What I would love to see is the 219 on a high and a fairly low low to see how much the color pop drops off . . say at 10 - 20 lumens.
Generally when I’m using a light where color is important, it’s closer up and with fewer rather than full lumens.
PS - Are there any 219 P60 drop-ins available?
Point!
Have to admit.When i first read TINT,cw,nw,i thought WT flipping heck is all that about,who cares.These guys are all weird[im weird as the next fella],gay[im kewl with gay btw],or just odd[im odd as they come].
Well,what a differance a few months make ,welcome to the world of,I Need That Light In That Tint.
Bring on the world of Mods….
Great examples J Mac,with photography.Lighting is key.Thanks for posting um
DON…
You can get almost anything over at CPF, but they are too expensive IMO. Our DICK should be able to build them too when his hands stop shaking.
Why dont you build one yourself?
I am a bit of a tint snob. I can’t stand a blue or green tint but I also don’t like tints that are way too yellow or orange. I would vastly prefer a pure white light or neutral white to a sickly yellow. I think a good NW looks more like bright daylight light then those dark yellow/orange lights that are supposed to be high CRI.
Your pics look great but I had a Terralux Lightstar 80 that was supposed to be high CRI but it just looked like an orange smear. In what world is an orange light a normal hue. Daylight is very pale yellow, almost white. Only a sunset gets as orange as that Terralux.
I got one from E1320 at $35 shipped (with 5V-15V buck driver). Depending on what driver, reflector etc you want, price might be higher/lower, but not by much.
Heh, came back to add the word budget after finding Malkoffs via Google.
Fear. EDIT: And poor soldering skills to be honest. Realistically, I may just order an AA light from Jake for the time and cost to build just one.
The IS product page suggests the 219 is a direct replacement for an XPG. Does that include beam shape?
I like the color of the Nichia 219 but as in output/brightness its on the low side compared to a xpg2 4c in the same light and same battery.
But the tint and color and all that other stuff its is very nice looking as JMac showed!
Yeah, beam is also pretty much the same. Its not much soldering.. cables to the LED and driver to ground. Easy. :)
Isn't this based on CRI not tint? While it is true a lower tint (3000k vs 6000k) will generally render colors better but not always.
Low color temp. can have pretty horrid CRI too, e.g. low-pressure sodium lamps are very warm-white, but have very low CRI (under 50, IIRC).
I have an XP-E high CRI emitter.. and while CRI is rated >90, its in the 2700K-2900K range. It looks exactly like an incan.
Wow. Impressive…. I am NOW a tint snob!!! Thanks…I think??? 0:) Really great colors. Just a few days ago I found myself adjusting the color correction in my D90 Nikon because I had to shoot under incandescent. I feel a new light for my photography coming on!!! Nichia it will be!!
Dan.
LOL, my Weller gun would probably put solder everywhere. I did just get a light duty straight tip from my F-I-L but I don’t even know if it works, yet.