there is a capacitor in the Tool Ti tail switch
which has to charge before mode switching is enabled
many ppl thought they had a DOA, butt it just took a few minutes to charge up
Interesting, must be a different model then the one I linked to, that one appears to be the same as mine, just a simple twisty.
I just switched my E-tail from the Tool Ti to the Cu Tool and it came on only in high with 10440
butt works fine w/AAA
the Cu tail works fine on the Ti with AAA, butt not at all with a 10440 installed
and it’s a clicky, not a twisty
Interesting but makes sense, the driver itself should just go into “direct drive mode”.
I tried a 10440 in my tool aluminum. Works on low, with medium and high looking like the same output. Insanely powerful for such a small light…. But definitely some mode issue going on.
Not all AAA lights will work with a 10440 so be careful. Some handle the 10440 better then others
Example my Jet-u keeps the current at 1.8amps while using either a 10440 or NiMH where as my Lumintop tool will step down current when using a 10440. Using a 10440 inside a Hugsby XP1 melts the switch.
well, as to low with the Lumintop w/10440, forget it…it ain’t low
Ran a couple of lights on 10440s a few years back. Wicked bright and very hot after only a couple of minutes, but they seemed to hit 400+ lumens. The 10440 cells I was using usually tested as around 250-300 maH. I was using protected cells because I was afraid of damaging them by running the voltage down too low, and as a consequence they are too fat for some of the single AAA lights I wanted to try them in. Mainly I found them neat as show-off pocket rockets, but as a real EDC Eneloops rule. One of the lights died, very possibly from the heat, even tho it was rated for 10440.
10440 work with the olight i3s. They don’t work with the lumintop tool.They work with the blf-348. And that’s all I’ve used
Eth90…
which Tool?
you are empirically wrong, you know?
edit…
just saying that the one Copper Tool of mine works fine with 10440
No, it’s probably a lot less.
The best 14500 are 840mAh, so i think you’re lucky to get 400mAh from a 10400.
Not necessarily.
2250 mAh Eneloop AA are 2.25 Ah x 1.2 V = 2.7 Wh (Watt hour).
840 mAh Sanyo 14500 are 0.84 Ah x 3.6 V = 3.02 Wh (Watt hour).
Not only that, the driver needs to boost the 1.2 Volts to the LED Vf which is around 3.4 Volts.
This means boosting the Voltage about 3 times.
This also means you draw 3 times the Current form a NiMH, which will cause battery Voltage to sag due to internal resistance of the battery.
None the less, most lights will produce less light on a NiMH compared to a Li-Ion, so in the end it may last longer on a NiMH.
Hope it helped. 
When did we start talking about AA/14500’s? I thought this thread was about AAA/10440’s…
But I think I understand your point.
A more concise summary would be that mAh isn’t directly comparable between nimh & Li-Ion due to voltage differences. Yes?
Just to compare 2 well known high quality cells, in this case comparing Li-ion with NiMH.
I have no experience with 10400 and i don’t think any good brands (like Sanyo, Panasonic, etc…) produce them.
Yes. 
Watt hours are actually more interesting than Ampere hours.
Standard aluminum tool, with clicks switch. It worked once when new, then I used aaa s and it didn’t work with 10440 again.
Odd, I have one with a 219C running ~500 lumens and around ~2A and it has held up fine so far, although not a lot of use on these smaller lights.