I am of the understanding that Li Ion are NOT to be used in the Lumintop Ti (I have the Reylight version) - I have read here that some folks HAVE used lithium cells in them but with the result that the light no longer works with NiMH or regular AAA cells after the Lithium cell use.
cannot speak for the other lights you have.
(edit “AAA” not “AA” in this case since we are talking about 10440 size)
voltage is the difference/problem - a light designed for only 1.2v-1.5v (normal AAA or NiMH cells) will usually not run properly with the higher voltage (3.7v) of 10440 lithium cells, and may actually be damaged by the higher voltage.
Looks like the Lumintop should work with a 10440, maybe only on high? Apparently the copper version works better, and electronic tailswitch models might get messed up… Check out this thread . One note in there about an Olight working well with 10440.
Here’s another thread testing several lights with 10440’s - OP, take a look through there to see if any of those match lights you have? Maybe the BLF-348?
A quick skim of both threads only reveals several tests, but only one first-hand report of 10440 usage in a Tool preventing subsequent usage with NiMH/AAA cells.
600 mAh is typical for a 10440, right? If I understand the big picture correctly, the big advantage of li-ion over nimh isn’t overall capacity, but rather discharge rate (allows a brighter light). So for max capacity/runtime/safety, by all means stick with nimh! But if you want maximum brightness, and if you’re willing to sacrifice some of those other things, li-ion is the way to go. (I’m sure one of our local experts will correct me if those overall concepts are wrong!)
Thank you very much. Friday 13th and already broke one of my resolutions for 2017. I bought (yet another) AAA-light.
Just kidding, but I did remember seeing an inexpensive AAA-light that claims it also can take a 10440.
And this it is, the Crelant E3 Yes, the pink one, in case SWMBO confiscates it.
But it would be a small loss: $10.10 or € 9.15 (minus up to 30% in points).
I just built several AAA and AA lights last week and with my bench power supply I tested to see if they had a max voltage. Turns out all of them that I had (including the lumintop tool) can run on a 10440 just fine without any damage to the driver.
The only “issue” is that it doesn’t have low voltage protection and it will get hot. Although the AAA can only provide so much power, so it is not a major concern.
I have a few AAA lights now making ~500 lumens from a 10440, surprising pocket rockets. With a 219C 90+ CRI they ae really amazing for the size.
The same thing applies to all of the 14500 lights I have tried so far, you simply do not get any regulation and it is direct drive when using the 14500 over the AA but it works fine without damage.
Obviously you test any of this at your own risk, you can use a mostly empty 10440 to see if it seems to work right and minimize risk if you want. I simply have not had a light die due to the 10440/14500 yet and they are all still using the stock drivers (and thin wires to help limit current and reduce heat).
All of the Tools should use the same driver as far as I know, it is just a simple boost driver. Mine has the same magnetic tailcap as the TI from what I can see here http://www.lumintop.com/tool-ti.html The only difference appears to be the metal it is made from.
Now the specs say it won’t work with a 10440 on my box but it works great and is is making ~500 lumens with a 219C 5000k. It actually stays surprisingly cool for that much light as well.
My guess is they do not recommend the 10440 since it is direct drive and has no regulation and is thus outside the specs they can control. Same thing the BLF348 does, it works with the 10440 but it is not recommended due to the heat.
I am not sure what you mean by electronic switch? Mine is just a basic tailswitch twisty? Never seen an E-Switch in the tail?