Forgotten Which one runs on 10440 Li-Ion

Stupid me. A couple of weeks ago I ordered 4 10440 Li-Ions for one of my lights. I have forgotten for which is was. :person_facepalming:

Does anyone know which AAA lights kan take these?

Ik think I ordered it for my Lumintop Ti (Reylight version) but not sure and don’t dare to try it out. I also own Astrolux AAA, Olight AAA and several cheaper ones.

Any idea anyone?

LOL :smiley:

I am of the understanding that Li Ion are NOT to be used in the Lumintop Ti (I have the Reylight version) - I have read here that some folks HAVE used lithium cells in them but with the result that the light no longer works with NiMH or regular AAA cells after the Lithium cell use.

cannot speak for the other lights you have.

(edit “AAA” not “AA” in this case since we are talking about 10440 size)

UltraTac K18.

Jeez really can’t remember why I bought them. Anyway, they’re only 600 mAh so I wonder if “normal” Eneleoops (pro) aren’t better. :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming:

Might be some light is on the way from China I bought them for but can’t find any order that fits that bill….

voltage is the difference/problem - a light designed for only 1.2v-1.5v (normal AAA or NiMH cells) will usually not run properly with the higher voltage (3.7v) of 10440 lithium cells, and may actually be damaged by the higher voltage.

mAH measures capacity (milliamp hours)

I know, thanks.

My question is just: Which AAA light might have provoked me to order these 10440 cells….

Anyway. They’re rubbish as they don’t come even close to the stated 600 mAh … *Fire.

Probably just going to bin them.

They even claim they’re protected against over discharge on the wrapper …

Looks like the Lumintop should work with a 10440, maybe only on high? Apparently the copper version works better, and electronic tailswitch models might get messed up… Check out this thread . One note in there about an Olight working well with 10440.
Here’s another thread testing several lights with 10440’s - OP, take a look through there to see if any of those match lights you have? Maybe the BLF-348?

A quick skim of both threads only reveals several tests, but only one first-hand report of 10440 usage in a Tool preventing subsequent usage with NiMH/AAA cells.
HTH

I think it is a perfect excuse to buy the BLF-348 mate!!!

Link please :slight_smile:

Search doesn’t work in Safari.

Thanks man, checking :slight_smile:

Check the beginning of this thread Bazz… It has the links and codes to get the torches for $6.99 (or $7.99 with a gift box)

SP

OK. Thanks. After reading up I think was ment for the Lumintop Reylight Ti.

But 600 mAh is shite so I’m not going to take the gamble.

Or perhaps I will. If it fails, hope I can order another one as it’s one of my favs.

Thanks and keep you posted.

Hey mate i started a thread about this a while ago.

I just bought 4x Soshine 10440 Lifepo4 280mah to try in my UltraTac K18

I did a capacity test in my SkyRC MC3000 using the standard lifepo4 profile discharge from 3.6v to 2.9v and i only got a capacity of 180mah, Not the best result.

I wanted to try Lifepo4 as seem to maintain a constant voltage till they are virtually empty, With a normal li-ion cell you get very little time a full power as the voltage dives straight down.

John.

Glad you figured it out!

600 mAh is typical for a 10440, right? If I understand the big picture correctly, the big advantage of li-ion over nimh isn’t overall capacity, but rather discharge rate (allows a brighter light). So for max capacity/runtime/safety, by all means stick with nimh! But if you want maximum brightness, and if you’re willing to sacrifice some of those other things, li-ion is the way to go. (I’m sure one of our local experts will correct me if those overall concepts are wrong!)

Thank you very much. Friday 13th and already broke one of my resolutions for 2017. I bought (yet another) AAA-light.
Just kidding, but I did remember seeing an inexpensive AAA-light that claims it also can take a 10440.
And this it is, the Crelant E3 Yes, the pink one, in case SWMBO confiscates it.
But it would be a small loss: $10.10 or € 9.15 (minus up to 30% in points).

I just built several AAA and AA lights last week and with my bench power supply I tested to see if they had a max voltage. Turns out all of them that I had (including the lumintop tool) can run on a 10440 just fine without any damage to the driver.

The only “issue” is that it doesn’t have low voltage protection and it will get hot. Although the AAA can only provide so much power, so it is not a major concern.

I have a few AAA lights now making ~500 lumens from a 10440, surprising pocket rockets. With a 219C 90+ CRI they ae really amazing for the size.

The same thing applies to all of the 14500 lights I have tried so far, you simply do not get any regulation and it is direct drive when using the 14500 over the AA but it works fine without damage.

Obviously you test any of this at your own risk, you can use a mostly empty 10440 to see if it seems to work right and minimize risk if you want. I simply have not had a light die due to the 10440/14500 yet and they are all still using the stock drivers (and thin wires to help limit current and reduce heat).

my Lumintop Ti & Reylight Ti definitely will not run on any of my 10440’s
my Cu Tool works a treat with them
maybe due to the electronic tail switch?

All of the Tools should use the same driver as far as I know, it is just a simple boost driver. Mine has the same magnetic tailcap as the TI from what I can see here http://www.lumintop.com/tool-ti.html The only difference appears to be the metal it is made from.

Now the specs say it won’t work with a 10440 on my box but it works great and is is making ~500 lumens with a 219C 5000k. It actually stays surprisingly cool for that much light as well.

My guess is they do not recommend the 10440 since it is direct drive and has no regulation and is thus outside the specs they can control. Same thing the BLF348 does, it works with the 10440 but it is not recommended due to the heat.

I am not sure what you mean by electronic switch? Mine is just a basic tailswitch twisty? Never seen an E-Switch in the tail?