It must be the SFH55 version from BangGood. Is that correct?
That is. SFH55 from Bangood
The later batches should have Anduril. The earlier batches come with NarsilM - I confirmed this with one of the Mateminco’s sales reps.
I flashed Anduril on my SFH55 version using the MT35 firmware and it works perfectly (anduril.2020-03-18.mateminco-mt35mini.hex on ToyKeeper’s website). I just used a USB ASP and some jump wires (Jump wire - Wikipedia). No soldering or pogo pins are necessary. In all, it cost me only about 3 USD.
Could i get the code again please. My order didnt make it again
It's time to update my FT03 to Andúril-2, but I need some assistance in Tom E's absence.
EDIT: Which Atmel MCU does the FT03 Driver use? (ATtiny85?)
As a firmware novice, I assume each flashing pad or Via on a driver has to be connected to the USBasp Programming Adapter (POGO Pin style or similar setup) in an order consistent with the programming header's pinout before flashing the firmware. Please correct me with any other specifics as required for the flashing to work correctly.
So what I need is for someone to please label each of the 6 flashing pads shown in the 2nd & 3rd photos of the FT03 driver's pinout that Tom posted a couple pages back? Open HERE and scroll down to Post 3267 to see those photos.
Perhaps taking a screenshot and using a photo editor to label each of the pinout's pads would work. Thanks!
Yes, it’s an attiny85. Don’t forget my info I posted over here (and watch ZozzV6’s video!). At 0:30 in the video you can see pad labels, they’re the same even if yours aren’t labeled. Those line up with the USBASP V2.0 pinout you can find here in the Getting Ready section. Good luck!
Thanks so much G, that's perfect!
Since I love anything high tech, and prefer learning everything I can before having to resort to asking for help, I've been reading as much as my brain can absorb about SMD microelectronics, driver circuits and programming. So your reminder is telling me that I'm starting to forget more than I can remrmber, OY! At least I have plenty of experience with soldering.
Now while I'm much closer to understanding everything I'll need to finally start flashing updates to any programmable drivers, I also feel a bit overwhelmed by the sheer volume of information I've already read.
Due to my desire to have a solid grasp of it all, and right now, I hope you won't mind my continuing to request your assistance, but only as necessary until I can stand on my own! I don't want to end up relying upon your generosity & willingness to help others by overdoing it.
So while I'm thinking about it, I recall reading that the USBasp V2.0 Programmers need to be updated regularly with new firmware. Additionally, although my programmer is the 2.0 version, it was given to me all the way back in 2013/14 by former member and driver designer, Johnny C.
So, is it likely, that I'll need this USBasp updated? If yes, then I believe that means I'll have to get a programmer from Arduino or similar, just to update my USBasp Programmer. Yes, no, or unsure? As much as I would love to know how to do it all right now, in the short term I'd first rather just be able to update my FT03 and TS21's with TK's latest version of Andúril-2. From that point forward, I can learn at a leisurely pace from a platform like Arduino or similar.
Additionally, based on the number of others who are also asking questions about the capability to flash their drivers, I might have to start a new thread devoted to those of us who have been wanting to learn these technical subjects, but haven't for whatever reasons.
In the ~5 years that I’ve owned my USBASP 2.0, I’ve never updated it’s firmware or seen the need to. I won’t say your experience will be the same, but I’d only worry about that if you run into issues that don’t have other explanations.
My SFT-40 is a bit warmer on lower outputs which are borderline useless, middle is white and high is slightly bluish but not noticable immediately like on some LEDs. You mostly see this in the corona and spill.
I did use it quite a bit but I didn’t do any voltage measurements or timed the use.
Something that I noticed is that the flashlight is brighter with the Samsung 30T vs 40T but it burned through the battery like nothing. I was shocked that the battery was at 3.8V after a bit of use on turbo. Now looking back and reading your experiences, maybe that’s the voltage readout bug.
I did a quick measurement as I’m writing and the battery is at 4.03V while the flashlight reads out 3.8V
I love that the voltage blinking is slower on Narsil vs Anduril. I have a hard time counting the fast flashes on Anduril.
Regarding Narsil, that the only thing I like about it lmao. Can’t wait to flash it.
I also don’t like the double springs. Seems like they just add unnecessary pressure and the cap harder to screw in.
Was that added for extra recoil resistance in case it’s used as a weapon light?
I would prefer a normal spring with a bypass.
I’ve seen some guy on the forums and YouTube using a custom reflector that’s supposed to be much better, especially for the SFT-40.
Does anyone know something about it?
Hello, I want to tell you about something that happens with my FT03S SFH55, which doesn’t bother me because I don’t care if I make flat or curved graphs, which I think is curious and may be due to temperature control and I don’t know if it’s due to Anduril’s prediction function .
In the stepped ram modes, refrigerated or not, and being less than 40 degrees Celsius, the luminosity decreases after a while to very low levels without the temperature having exceeded 40 C, even more pronounced than in “turbo” mode without I can think of an explanation for it when I have set the maximum temperature to 69 C by setting the flashlight temperature to room correctly.
Attached graphic of what I have explained so that you know and in case you have an explanation. Test begins with battery at 3.8v
Guys, has anyone measured the current? I have a couple of these SFH55, and I am thinking of ways on how to put one in my Convoy L6 (with rearranged batteries), but I have no idea where to get a driver that can draw some serious current.
I’m kinda tempted to just directly drive it, incandescent style.
Organise a battle 26650 Vs sfh55 in an L6 ring?
Interested in Astrolux FT03S SFH55
Any high quality FET driver will work. I think the L6 takes a 26 or 30mm driver? I forget. The 26650s will lose. That SFH can pull huge current easily 40 or more amps before dying if kept cool. I measured the 7070 size SFN55.2 and it easily pulled 30 amps off a single 26800. I think it would work better in a L21A host since it’s a single battery, plus drivers are readily available in 20-22 mm.
Interested in group buy code for SFT40 version please
interested in sfh55!
Interested in Astrolux FT03S SFH55
Can I have a SFH55 code? Thanks
Shared.
I’d like to request a code for the SFH55. Thanks!
It's a pleasure to have you onboard, Wholly Unholy!
Nice avatar...
John Wick is pretty awesome.
