Are you referring to these? https://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_424934.html
Those are protected, so pretty low amp draw compared to others. Bad review here: https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/AWT%20IMR26650%205200mAh%20(Red)%202015%20UK.html
Yes . These are batteries that I wanted to buy. Thanks for the information .
Shockli 26650 5500mAh 30A, has anyone bought it before? Authentic?
https://www.gearbest.com/batteries-railway/pp_009901798346.html
I bought these Shockli in the UK Draw more amps than 26650 xtar 4000mah 10A, 18650 LGHG2, Samsung 30Q and Sanyo GA
I normally buy in the states,That[Gearbest] is where I bought mine[shown in above photo] last July and they definitely seem authentic.
Interested.
I’m pretty curious about the difference between the 5700k and the 5000k as accurate depth perception is somewhat important to me when using this/ light. Anyone wanna weigh in with whether there will be a major difference between the two? I’m yet to have any experience with this emitter.
I'm certainly not a fan of the SST-40 5000K's. If you are spoiled by the XPL HI consistency from the spill to corona to hotspot, you won't care for these. To me the difference isn't the 5000K or 5700K, but how the lack of consistency looks, and also where the 5000K vs. 5700K's are. For example with CREE's, 5000K could be 3A, 3B, 3C or 3D. I much prefer the 3D, second best being 3A. 3A and 3D should have less green. Well, I'm sure the SST-40's work the same way - above the BBL or below? That's the important thing. If the 5700K's are below the BBL and the 5000K's above it, well, easy choice for me is the 5700K, though my ultimate preference would always be in the 4000K range.
Bottom line is, without enough details, I don't expect much difference - there's too much blue in the 5000K for my tastes, but still prefer it over the 6500k+.
I received today my Shockli 26650 5500 mAh. Externally, it is identical to Liitokala 26650. Perhaps it is Liitokala, only the covering is different. Even resistance is the same. Capacity not yet tested. I bought on aliexpress.
Nice! Will order a pair to try out.
No. Batteries are all about the chemical mix inside.
How do you think. Are these batteries suitable for this flashlight?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32947385818.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.33893c00uBgVFK
They will be fine. The Shockli’s will also be fine. I’ve even run the infamous EBL’s in mine. Output with the EBL’s are not quite as high as my Shockli’s but they are close. Light performs great.
Not sure about gearbest but I’ve bought a few from their official AE store and am very happy with them.
I’ve never heard of this brand or seen these batteries before. I would avoid buying this one.
HKJ tested this brand, just not this particular model - here's an old model tested in 2014: https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Eizfan%20IMR26650%204200mAh%20(Gold)%20UK.html
He had a venting problem, looks like, with one of those cells. Of course now with the 5500 model, who knows.
So the binning is inconsistent then? I’ve noticed people in the thread seem to have pretty variable tints even thought most people ordered the NW.
Part of me wonders why manufacturers still make CW versions in such quantities, considering most of us tend towards warmer tints these days.
There's still many CWers out there, and also many fans here in the 5300K-5700K camp, which is actually CW, just more on the warm side of CW.
For the manufacturers, seems like it's easier to get and/or cheaper for CW, plus it's common for CW's to be in a higher bin so the #'s look better. Also as you can see, there's wayyyy more controversy of what exactly the NW tint is - most want below the BBL which is always harder to find, plus many only want high CRI NW, so another words, NWers are a pain in the neck customers while CWers seem to just take what you give them.
A few years back, we were just beg'n for NW, any NW, happiness was 3C, that's all, now it's way more involved and 3C is considered a non-desirable tint.
Just modded mine with Osram white flat1. I removed the fet and putted in a half driver PCB with 12x7135s. It is very tight but fit and now I have a 1+12x7135 setup. It works but now I am at work so tomorrow I can make some intensity measurements. The spot seems tight and bright.
These are all great points. Obviously CW allows manufacturers to spec the most lumens for marketing.
I come in and out of this hobby every few years and what has jumped out to me most coming back this time is the explosion in Hi CRI/Warm tints that are now available. For years the only Hi CRI light I could get my hands on was my old Ra Clicky with a Golden Dragon in it.