Thanks for the tips. To be honest i don’t need a thrower, or yet another light for that matter… I probably want the most bang just for fun - even if it’s for a few seconds at a time. I ordered the XHP version. Just a 30 euros light. No big deal.
Thanks freeme, but he tells me that ” (CN) This warehouse can not ship to your location” I’m from Argentina, I’m buying batteries on another page, Banggood doesn’t send them, is there an alternative?
Any from Argentina, is able to recommend shops to buy battery for enesrap?
I sliced my SST-40 and the difference in CD is tiny.
I measured both at 7m and 9m.
Dome - 1.04km
Sliced - 1.06km
9m
Domed - 3,380 lux x9 x9 = 273,780 x4 = 1,095,120
Sliced - 3,500 lux x9 x9 = 283,500 x4 = 1,134,000
Is that right?
I didn’t touch the led surface and it’s all looking perfect. I used a 0.9mm washer for slicing
Doesn’t sound right. You should see at least a 20% improvement. I haven’t messed with a SST-40, but most leds improve by 20 to 30 percent.
This might be long overdue and irrelevant to others but after wiping it with alcohol so many times I accidentally removed the PCB from the tail cap and the glue is the source of the smell.
Makes sense.
How far are you from the bonding wires?
Possibly 0.2mm.
I thought the stock version was only 875 - 900m?
everydaysurvivalgear
Why did you bypass the springs? I thought there was a potential risk of killing the SST-40 with too much current? I’ve been hearing mixed opinions about it
I got like 230kcd stock some got more than me stock. No one really got less from what i know. Lots of the older member with proper light boxes and more skills than me got higher numbers.
I bypassed the springs as i am yet to see a SST40 burn out in a light but i have killed a bunch trying to dedome them lol. Most of us have spring bypassed this light plus i have a bunch of SST40 running in other lights on direct drive with spring bypasses no issues. Even ones i reflowed my self.
Just the size of the LED 5050 foot print we know can dissipate almost 20amps from the 3v XHP50.2 only weak point here is the bonding wires but we had the older XML2 use to get up to about 8-9amps with the same bonding wire setup as the SST40s.
Thank you for your reply. Sold it to a customer just now so it’s no longer an issue.
What do you make of this review on banggood as this had me worried
“Although this flashlight is stated as 2400Lm and 190Kcd , this latest SST-40 has very low Vfd and the cheap method that driver works in turbo mode where low RDSon mosfet is DC connecting led directly to battery , can be fatal for Led’s life ! Using a real 20A discharge 26650 Li-Ion battery and as expected in turbo mode led’s current was over 9A at real 4V of battery , led’s luminance was about 3000 Lumen and intensity close to 220 Kcd ! I strongly suggest for Led’s safety to use either a 26650 Li-Ion with 6-7 amperes current protection nor one with lower discharge current like KeepPower 5200mAh , since 9A can easily burn Led’s internal wiring. Summary , without concerning about Led’s risk , this is the strongest single 3,7 Li-Ion factory thrower”
I mean lots of people worry about seemingly nothing in a sense its true bonding wires can blow at 9amps but every LED is not the same. Some might die at 9.5amps others 8.9 its not really a known thing. Not to mention that once the spring and tail cap is added back into the equation amperage will slightly drop.
If we had such an issue people would be on here complaining. I am yet to hear of one LED burning out of the 2500+ sold in this thread.
I understand people tell me it will shorten the life span of a LED. How long in reality are going to keep this light? Or this LED? I have already swapped mine out. No doubt it will shorten the 50000 figure but by how much?
How much does over driving an LED shorten its life span. I have had my BLF A6 in frequent use since 2016 with possibly hundreds of hours on it and it still outputs the same amount of light as when i bought it. My LG 18650 on the other hand have worn hard and dont work the same.
Some LEDs like some Nichia i would not direct drive at all.
You make a solid point that out of so many sold we have yet to see blown bond wires.
Well I guess I’ll worry less and bundle these lights with the Sofirn 26650 20A cells since they’re cheaper than the 10A cells I was importing specially. I measured the output in my lumen tube and these Sofirn cells aren’t outputting any more so that says a lot.
Thank you for your input
Has anyone tried to modify the FT03 with a CSLNM1.TG? I find it very interesting
I think it would require a driver change with less current
The PM1 makes more sense to me, to drive a NM1, a fat 26650 battery light is rather overkill (although it does provide runtime). On the other hand, the luminosity of a dedomed SST-40 may come close to the PM1 ?
KW CSLPM1.TG is 230-260 cd/mm² depending on who makes the test.
Dedomed SST-40 reached 180 cd/mm² on koef3 setup (which has truly great cooling, so this is probably on the high end of the range of results).
Note that the newer SST-40 seem FET-safe so maybe Luminus did some production changes. They may be better nowadays….
I would imagine that getting those small LEDs focused in a reflector with such a giant opening would be a major pain in the behind?