FREEME ✌ ASTROLUX FT03S SFH55 9300lm & FT03 SFT40 2200lm 1300m NarsilM v1.3 USB-C - ALIVE

What is the size of FT03 MCPCB ?

I don’t think anyone’s had a look under the hood yet.

I did but didn't take note of the MCPCB size - it's pretty big though, bigger than 20 mm. Since mine is making the classic "popping/cracking" sound when run hot, I'll be removing the MCPCB and fixing it up, breaking it down w/pics, if no one else has yet.

My estimate was 26mm based on photos. When mine turns up I’ll confirm that :slight_smile:

I’ve taken mine fully apart, Mcpcb is 26mm.
Also the driver has programming pads on the bottom of it!

Forgive the potential newb question, what’s the classic popping/cracking sound usually a result of?

Poor application of thermal compound under the mpcb.

Yes - caused from escaping heated air in the gaps of the paste. Air in the air pockets heats, expands, pushes the paste til it finds an escape route. Solution is to eliminate the air gaps - surfaces may not be flat. On the E07, the MCPCB had nasty burrs on the thru holes - simple flat surface sanding took care of that, re-applied the paste, and all is good.

Mine is making the popping/cracking sound, but doesn't mean they all are, so could be only mine or some percentage of the production batch, etc. My guess would be others will have the same problem, but not all - don't think anyone else reported this yet out of the few reported on here?

My E07 (freshly received just last week and it’s the V2 which supposedly had fixed all these issues) pops and crackles like a popcorn maker. Where does one find thermal paste? Is it available at home improvement stores like Lowes/HD or is this something I have to buy online?

And… anything I should know about choosing one or is any of it fine as long as it’s called “thermal paste”

Well, on an E07 you got some serious modding to do in order to get access to things. You have to carefully de-solder the wires for example, remove the MCPCB, etc. Lots of opinions on thermal grease to use, but think we all use CPU thermal grease. I use Arctic MX-4, but Arctice Silver 5 (AS5) is very popular, many others out there, lot of cheaper options as well.

I’m experienced soldering med-heavy gauge wiring like 18-22 down to 4 gauge from car and home electronic repairs but I’ve never gotten into circuit board levels of fragility. I have soldered a bunch of LED strip lights but that’s as much delicate circuitry like soldering I have.

How difficult is it for someone with that type of experience to de-solder and re-solder things like MCPCBs? Is it enough of a different playing field that I should spend some time practicing with other circuit boards that can be thrown away if damaged?

I definitely would like a quiet E07 over a popcorn maker but I’d rather a popcorn maker than a new project where I burned out the MCPCB or LED and now get to learn by replacing chunks of electronics

Do you know the lumens for #1?

Lumens for #2 and is that still w/ dome on SST-40 NW?

Thanks.

You should have the skills. It’s just a wire soldered to a pad. The think to be aware of is that the big copper mcpcb really pulls a lot of the heat out of your tip. Your typical 30-35 watt iron may not do the job. 50 to 70 watt should do it.

You might also want to have some tweezers or metal rod type tool to hold the wire into place when resoldering.

About the most you damage you can do is touch the iron to the led dome, so use caution there.

PS, you can get the best compound Artic Silver 5 at MNT E.

Here’s a random video showing soldering a mcpcb. Not the best technique, but adequate.

Got mine yesterday, my EVVA 5200 fit really tight, so I went to Mtn website and saw that these are longer batteries than most. Which 26650 should I go with then?

If you want to stay w/ 26650’s I would get these:Ask them by email or Live chat for a coupon code[10%]

https://www.18650batterystore.com/26650-battery-p/vapcell-26650-5500mah.htm

Edit: They are most likely the OEM PLB-55A cell which is a very well liked and used cell becuase of Great capacity and plenty of continuous amps[20]

1 and 2 are JM70's, not FT03's, and as I noted, they have XPL HI's. Apples to oranges, but I was asked so I answered...

Yes,I see that now,I scanned too quickly through the post.

Your talking about the protected Evva 5200 which are the old, weak Keeppower 5200? You can take the protection circuitry off and put a new wrapper on it like I did or you can replace it with something better. If you want something from MTN E, then the Shockli 5500 that we’ve been talkin about looks like a good choice.

Ah thanks! I’ll listen out for it when mine eventually ships and subsequently arrives.

Mine does it too. Mentioned it a few pages back but didn’t open it to see why