It looks like youâre demonstrating how to flip the light around to press the button. :+1:
Thatâs pretty much how I feel when trying to use a Sunwayman V11R. It has controls on the side and the tail, and both are required to turn the light on and adjust the brightness.
If Lumitop plans to glue the tailcap in the final version, they had better be sure that they seat it properly at the factory, and that it only ever needs to be done once. If the inner tube is something that can come loose over time, that would cause big problems for most people if the tail is glued.
+1 ⌠Yep, glued would be a huge problem if it wasnât exactly 100% at time of gluing.
Personally, I hope they leave it unglued (at least thru the total duration of the GB⌠) ⌠Because tightening a tailcap is a very, very easy thing to do.
Can you make a lighted tail switch from scratch? Very few can. Youâd also need to fabricate a new button or machine the existing one. It seems like a job for only the most advanced modders.
Just fyi, these are the #'s I got on the 3D and 7A measured to top of ramp (max 7135 bank), fresh VTC6 cells:
3A: 930 at start, 744 at 30 secs (mauka calibrated)
7A: 705 at start, 519 at 30 secs (mauka calibrated)
The droppage at 30 secs is attributed to thermal stepdown - factory defaults are aggressive on thermal protection. The first few seconds the output held up well, then definite step downs occurred. The #'s at start are more representative.
I need to re-do these tests after upping the temperature limit. At first I was somewhat upset a dbl click from OFF does not go to full max/turbo, instead goes to max ramp, but for this light, it makes a lot of sense since it probably can handle the heat of max ramp pretty well.
I don't have a problem with how far out the stock clip is. My preference though is for deep pocket clips. The stock Sunwayman C20C clip sticks out way further than the FW3A's.
Another note on the tints:
Last night I did take both lights out, and the big difference I noticed is how green the grass looks with the 3D, and how brownish it looked with the 7A. On brick, the 7A does better in bringing out the colors, but green plants and grass, the 3D is awesome. Something to consider...
Bout the lighted tailcap, there's no batt+ available at the tail so not so easy to do, well impossible in this design. Modders like CRX are using a trit and GITD stuff.
Received mine (3D) yesterday and i really like it !
I have to admit that i jumped on this train mainly because i had no multi-leds torch and the small size was appealing but i was somewhat doubtfull about the seemingly complicated UI and ramping mode (*).
What i like :
Overall good looking
Even smaller than i thought and very light (while opening the box in was wondering if someone had forgoten to put my torch in because it was so light !)
Smooth beam with no visible tint shift.
Amazing UI ! Yes ! That was the best surprise for me : As long as one only wants to use the basic functions everything is pretty intuitive and easy to get and the ramping is absolutly "no fuss" ! Total respect for what you did here TK !
What i would have prefered different :
The dark grey ano is not my prefered color.
The clip : somewhat protruding, weird color, edges sharpness, but i am not a clip guy anyway and will probably remove it sooner or later
Missing lanyard hole, i might replace the clip with some kind of "lanyard holder" ring
Better CRI (hopefully available soon and easy enough to solve anyway).
So there's a lot to love and very few to regret and i have to say a big Thank You to everyone involved in this project !
(*) Please TK accept all my apologies but the only ramping light i ever had before the FW3A was a Nitecore D20 (iirc , that was long ago) and the UI was a total mess imho.
There is a lip at the rear of the inner tube. Tightening the tailcap first seats this lip properly & centers the inner tube in itâs âfloating positionâ.