Received the pair of FW3A's, one 3D, one 7A - wow, both in exc. condition!! They are super small and light, as everyone else is say'n.
The 7A didn't work at first, but it had the same loose driver retaining ring problem. In fact when I took out the cell, the ring was almost out of the head. Simple fix - threaded it back in, tightened up after assembling, gave an extra twist to the tail, and it's work'n fine. Took a bunch of pics this eve.
3D on the left, 7A on the right:
The wood really brings out the difference. Was tweak'n settings to get the pics to look like what I was seeing here, and think they reproduce the differences well:
Dont' think the 3D looks this blue in real life though:
This is the ceiling shot of the lights as positioned above. Dunno why but it kind of, sort of looks like this. Not sure why but I do see some blue/green in the 3D. I think it's all relative though, next to the 7A:
Zoomed out a bit:
Another shot on the table. These are no where near ramp max, I think they are on the 1x7135:
This is next to an ol C20C, modded with an XPL HI 2700K triple bought from Richard at MtnE:
You can see below, the 2700K does appear slightly warmer than the 7A, as it should be:
Here you can see the 2700K does appear warmer than the 7A, but the colors don't quite match up. I have an Old Pana Lumix camera set for Auto white balance - other settings looks pretty bad, so I stay with Auto. It's good for relative comparisons though all in one shot:
Some Lumintop EDC family shots:
Below you can see the sometime loose driver retaining ring - it's quite thin and frail. If you need to tighten it up, be careful with it. The ring is just outside the PCB ring. You can see two notches to be able to use a tool, needlenose or something:
The 3D - little dirty in there but it's all good. Wires looks pretty thin - guessing 22 AWG or maybe 24 ?
The 7A LED's. I only saw those droplets in the pic - I removed them, they were hard, maybe rosin:
This is a not-so-easy light to measure at 30 secs. It's wayyyyy dang hot at 5 secs. Turn on numbers on fully charged VTC6A's:
- 3D: 3100 ANSI lumens (ANSI meaning based on maukka calibration sources)
- 7A: 2050 ANSI lumens
Now the 7A will definitely be a lower bin, so I'd expect lower output. also, my meter probably reads WW LED's low as well. My triple 2700K (U3 bin) in the C20C does a little lower than this FW3A 7A, yet it's optics is somewhat clipped and recessed down from the bezel, more so than the FW3A. Both have a good AR lens over the optic.
Now maybe it's the thin LED wires as well, but honestly, there is nothing to this flashlight - if you pick up the head, you can feel the weight of the copper MCPCB as you move it around. It's incredibly light weight - pros/cons. The outer shell get about instantly hot.
I re-configured Anduril's thermal mgt - set room temp, then set a higher max at about 60C and still it runs for only 5 secs before cranking down. I love the compact size though - a very easy carry.
All in all, both flavors are a winner! My pref has always been in the 4000K range, really like the XPL HI 5D's, so if I had to choose, I'd prefer the 7A tint, though the hit on output seems high. It's been raining all day here, so haven't gotten out with them.
The length is bout dead-on with the Amutorch AX3 - a dual LED, tiny reflectors, light. with mine running NarsilM and two XPL HI 5D's, it's a close match up with the FW3A, but the AX3 has the wider head, flared out chunkier pill like a D4, more weight. I got so many e-switch EDC's, I actually have to get used to a tail switch again 
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