Answer to both questions is no. :+1:
Ah yes, I forgot about the 70CRI SST-20 for a moment there. I like throw, but I also like tint. I think Iâd still go for the XP-L HI in a multi-emitter EDC light, but extra throw would be nice. Iâm currently toying with the idea of getting another Emisar D4 with the throwier SST-20s in it.
Thank you for clarifying!
I wasnât aware of them being organized that way, but if I had paid better attention I may have been able to notice. I often run beta stuff on my phones/computers, so Iâm comfortable with the occasional glitch.
When speaking of risk in this context:
Is this risk more to do with broken functions or broken hardware? Would the typical remedy be to reflash the older version if a problem occurs or would it be to replace the ATtiny?
EDIT: seems I didnât do the âquoteâ thing right⌠In case anyone was wondering, I was responding to ToyKeeperâs info a bunch of posts back about how the firmware repository was set up, and the differences between the branches.
I donât believe youâre any more likely to brick your flashlight with this newest version of the firmware, if thatâs what youâre asking. Just make sure everything is wired up correctly before you start flashing. 
Will there be more 219C? I saw how rosy they were and how the SST-20 is green under moonlight, really regret not buying it now. Is that with all SST-20 or just some batches? Sadly same case with the samsung one I heard. Is that constant as well or noticeable IRL?
The newer versions havenât been tested as much, so they are more likely to have bugs nobody noticed yet. But if you find that a new version has issues you canât tolerate, you could always flash an older version to go back to how it was before.
Usually though, newer versions have only fixed things and added features. New bugs and regressions have been pretty rare.
Iâd like a 219C version too, for the same reason. Normally I find 4000K a bit warmer than I want, but when itâs rosy like that, the warm tint is fine.
I had emailed Neal and on 5/31 he said heâd have more Nichia in 15 days
/\ Good. I am not going to procrastinate this time.
Will there be also different anodisation colours available?
How should I distinguish all that different lights, looking alike from outside??
@tk: I now also have a Sofirn SP36 with Anduril.
That torch doesnât flicker with the main LEDs once itâs crossing the regulated level.
It just shows it on the button.
Is this something that could be set by myself on the torch, or is this a compiler switch/setting?
I like it more the way it is handled by the FW3AâŚ.
Any beamshots Doc? Curious how does it compare to XPLâŚ.
I only have my S8 to make pics. WB is set to 5000K FW3A at max regulated output 2,5m from the wall.
With the 10509 optic you have nearly no visible hotspot. Only a nice clear wall of light.
Perfect as a worklight!
On the right my usual room light. Philips LED spots (Phone still on 5000K WB)
, 
Itâs a compile-time option.
Specifically, it depends on whether these symbols have been defined:
- BLINK_AT_RAMP_FLOOR
- BLINK_AT_RAMP_MIDDLE
- BLINK_AT_RAMP_CEILING
So, it can be changed⌠but only if youâre willing to reflash the firmware.
I got my 219C FW3A in.
And I could compare it with my other FW3A with the rather exotic SST-20 led in FA3 tint, and Sapphire lens (so non-ARcoated, that pushes the duv down a tiny bit). So as good as the SST-20 can get.
First my subjective impression, everything at 350mA:
The 219C version is floodier, has an almost rosy tint but at least without any green, the FA3 SST-20 has a tighter hotspot, is slightly yellower (also no green), and is noticably better in saturated reds.
Hereâs what my spectrometer sees in the hotspot:
219C 4000K 92CRI
SST-20 4000K 95CRI FA3 tint (Sapphire lens, so no ARcoating)
So the SST-20 is 150K warmer, that explains most of the yellow impression next to the 219C. That tiny bit above the BBL does not bother me a bit because Iâm not a rosy addict, as close to the BBL as can be is my ideal. And I did not think that I could see a difference between 94.6CRI/R9=79 and 97.1CRI/R9=97, but next to each other it is easy to see that the colours sparkle just a bit more by the FW3A with SST-20.
Btw, another difference between the two FW3Aâs is that the new one has the gritty metal-to-metal feeling when the button is pressed, that Docc described, and the click is less firm, while my first FW3A does not have the metal-to-metal feel at all and makes bit firmer click.
@djozz
Puh i was thinking that i am to petty. Because all the others do not have the same problem.
Could you check the switch assembly to see if they changed anything? If the rubber pad is made a bit different?
Both my Nichiaâs have a gritty switch, plus I have 2 new spare switchâs that are the same.
. Now my 2 origianl group buy lights and my XP-L HI 1A light have the (IMO) the good switchâs.
. From what I can visually see is the nub is half the length of the other 3 nubs and also the rubber boot is a more matte grainy looking rubber compared to the original and the A1 smooth rubber boots in the other 3?
. All the caps measure the same as do the all the stainless steel push buttons that I measured with my calipers. Funny thing is with the shorter nub, I canât actuate the switch to turn on the light from clicking the side of the button, only a direct center hit turns the light on. Maybe it was their idea to thwart accidental activation?
. I like the original switch and I think a longer nub will help, so your not pushing the button twice as far down to trigger the switchâŚand not cocking the button to get that gritty feelâŚ. Iâll give it a tryâŚ
Did you polish the center one?
I wish they would announce other anno colors, can someone behind the scenes leak some info