There’s a sale going on at my local store so i ordered one FW3A.
My light has a brass driver retaining ring, black pocket clip, Lumintop one piece optic and the most important detail is the tail
cap has been glued tight.
The light work flawlessly though, I just wish that i got the one using Carlo optic.
That sounds odd. They now have the retaining ring for the tail so glue is not necessary. The black clip is definitely an early part. I thought they had fully switched to silver clips before they started using the one piece optic.
Do you see the traces of glue or is it still together and too tight to remove? I have not heard of them gluing any tails. Quite odd.
Maybe the store added the glue to reduce warranty issues?
There is trace of glue on the pocket clip and the inner tube is pretty much stuck inside the body as well so i think there’s a good chance that it has been glued. I’ve also checked with the store, they said all their FW3A have been glued like this from the factory but only in their recent batch and not on the earlier ones.
Received my purple edition today (thanks ToyKeeper). Worked great out of box - I opened it anyway, it has a black retaining ring in the tail, silver clip, and a brass retaining ring in the head. I forget how to check the Anduril version (well, I forget how to check for the manual memory or two-step lockout mode). Also has a glass lens and Carclo optic.
I went with the SST-20 4000K for this one, and I’m not noticing any green, so it’s a pretty good tint. The button doesn’t feel better or worse than I recall the button being on my original, group-buy edition FW3A.
Fake edit: Checked, and it does have a two-step lockout mode. I don’t remember other details to check for, or what Anduril version that indicates.
are the copper ones coated now??
I opened mine, washed it and attempted to force patina with baking soda and warm water. The effect was negligible after 4 hours.
like zero effect.
I thought it would be easier
Put it overnight in a bag with smashed hard boiled eggs.
Patinas like crazy.
I might bite the bullet and get liver of sulfur. The baking soda did zip
I got mine 3 days ago, but the batteries I ordered were supposed to arrive yesterday, instead I got this bogus tracking notice “we are unable to access you residence, we will make an attempt on the next business day” which is mailman speak for I am too tired/lazy and want to go home . And of course there is no mail tomorrow for holiday, so I have to sit and stare at this light for 2 more days
some rogue mailman dropped off my batteries on a holiday today! I had similar issues with this V2 version as a lot reported, mostly it wouldn’t shut off, one time right after I hit turbo, man was that hot unscrewing the head. then it wouldn’t turn on after I let it cool. Took it apart and cleaned everything with alcohol, still nothing.
Seems to be working now after I cranked down the tail and head simultaneously, that seems to be best way to get some good leverage. Hopefully that was the only issue.
With my lights —if you don’t manually step down Turbo —they will ramp down and continiue to ramp way down — sometimes to 35 lumens or so —I have the Temp set on 60c—you better be careful it will burn you —that’s in about 2 min —- it only stays in Turbo for 30 + seconds
Yea i’m referring to lights with the thermal regulation set correctly i’m not sure why scosgt is reading my reply as otherwise. Anyways, curious to see where and how fast it ends up at that “few hundred lumen” level depending on the material. I have one of each of the metals but only 2 share the same LED or I would do it myself. I may still try I suppose.