Yes the fw3 ti/cu feels a little head heavy but I don’t feel it’s awkwardly so as kawiboy puts it.
The D4ti is a tank. Stock weight 126g nearly half of the weight is in the head 62g.
The D4v2 is 71g and 27g respectively.
Note - the Lego only works one way. By that I mean the V2 head fits the ti body but the cu head does not fit the Al body. Reason being different thread profile, the older being v-cut the newer being square or trapezoid.
It is just a copper spacer/sealing ring(s) that were laying around, I pounded it flat enough to the size of the switch pcb… I made 2 of them 1mm thick.
. I packed the button with a little bit of NO-OX-ID, (the cap/button jiggles a little) set the rubber boot in and then the copper spacer, switch and retaining ring, it works with out the retaining ring also…
. Just tried it on my Ti/Cu ……it works just the same…
Thanks for the info Kawiboy. Btw, as per your suggestion, I added a bunch of no-oxid grease in the switch. Much quieter now (though perhaps a bit sluggish). I added extra kapton tape after a bit to prevent grease from getting in the switch. Good idea on the grease. Makes it much more enjoyable to use.
Today I got a third diffuser and tried it (with no problems) on the highest candle mode for a half-hour.
The diffuser is a foldable lantern from Towild. It is supposed to be made from food grade silicone. It is slated to fit 25 to 30mm diameter flashlight heads.
In normal use the diffuser did not fall off of my FW3A. It can be used tail or diffuser standing, and in a few depths / steps in either stance.
I saved a little money by getting it from the Aplustore on Amazon. Search, “Diffuser Tip for LED” if interested.