Had a bit of time to play with the Ti Bar today at work on “Da-Beast” mostly testing speeds, feeds, tool edge prep, ect. Need to gather up a few more tools, carbide tipped parting bit, a few 1.5-2-3mm diameter carbide ball nose end mills for the trit slot or slots? More or less what ever I can beg, borrow or steal…. 
Da-Beast old worn out beat up…… would Love to have it and rebuild it!
wow. what a machine. I have 100% respect for people who know how to use this “beast”.
That is nice.
If you make any i'll be up for a couple.
Fresh cut of Talon Grip tape for my FW3A. This time cut for style! 
Also I noticed some posts today complaining about how the AR coating on the lens makes the tint greener. To address this I replaced the lens with one from Flashlightlens.com that I had on hand. Unfortunately, the new lens was much thinner so I also had to replace the lens o-ring. I ordered some thicker lenses. Hopefully they will arrive next week.
Haven’t had a chance to test it closely. But my initial impression is I can’t tell the difference. I don’t think the stock AR coating was that greenish. Haven’t spent more than a minute looking though.
Incidentally, flashlightlens.com appears to be having a sale on glass lenses right now. The FW3A needs a lens that is approximately 23mm wide by 1.5-2mm tall.
The AR lens doesn’t add any significant green to the beam. It’s already been discussed and measured:
Glow gaskets coming today, drilled out optics ordered/shipped last night, but the trits are/will be on the slo boat from Neal. Neal has them for $5.50 which is the cheapest I could find, but never know when he will ship - ordered an E01 with them, no idea if in stock or not w/Neal, so... ???
I bought my trits from MixGlo and was very impressed with their attention to packing detail and speed of fulfillment.
+1 for Mixglo
Yep, that's where I bought them last, but truthfully, that website is scaring me off with all the hype over shipping, etc. in big colored fonts.
Same here got mine at MixGlo, fast to ship and Daniel answer’s e-mails quickly too! :+1:
When the Glow Die’s….
The Tri’s come Alive!
Surefire Bored/Stroked 18650 Copper Triple 6P that is…
I thought this was funny…
^ Hey… someone lifted my image and made a meme out of it. 
Anyway, had a little fun with optics. Here’s some images. Beamshots are a little washed out — the 10509 is more floody and the elliptical a little more wide and vertically narrow.
Installed some GITD tape. Works pretty well. But trits would sure be nice…
Good one!! 
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@ xevious …. Thanks for sharing, interesting info. :+1:
I tried to apply a strip of GITD tape to the inside of the head but couldn’t get it to stick very well. It worked fine in my Convoy S2+s. Just me and my crappy tape?
The FW3A is ordered new LH351D leds and 10509 optic are waiting and now i am looking into LEE filters to optimize the tint.
But i have a question. I found a shop where i can buy them but i found 2 different filters. One for use with LEDs and one for other light sources.
My question is if the two are almost the same regarding the filter effect?
https://www.castinfo.de/produkte/filterfolien/led-filter/lee-zircon-filter/lee-zircon-805-minus-green-5-bogen-61cm-x-61cm.html
Is this the lightest green filter? I do not want to get too rosy and only want to remove a tiny bit of green.
And i also see some LEE diffusion films. Is anybody here with experiance using the LEE diffusion films?
I have been using the LEE Zircon 804 for some time with both the LH351D’s and the SST-20’s and don’t find that they make the beam to rosy. The 805 is not likely to eliminate much of the green at low levels - was not worth the trouble for me at least. ymmv
I hope this is OK to ask here…
I haven’t received my light yet but I have been following this and other threads related to the Fw3a and have yet to see any discussion about diffusers.
Does anyone have a recommendation of what to use as a diffuser for this light?
Awesome, thank you.
Maybe crappy tape? I used a quality one. Might also be in how you applied it. After cutting a strip, peel off a couple inches of the backing, then anchor the starting end along the inner tube wall right adjacent to the MCPCB. There’s a distinct “band” of smooth metal there, then a slight lip. Thickness of the strip should match it I estimate about 3~4mm. If you’re using a GITD tape strip taller than that, the optic might press against it and pry off the wall.
While applying, use a toothpick to assist. Give light pressure on the tape initially using the toothpick to help with getting the alignment right, then press down with the tooth pick to firm up adhesion. Go 1/4” at a time. When you get near the end, snip off the excess, then follow up with running the toothpick all around the tape. It should definitely stay for 2 reasons — 1) it’s a totally protected zone, with no chance of being touched, and 2) the heat will help bond the adhesion to the inner wall.