Thanks for the response, CRX already linked me to those, lol.
I guess I didn’t dive deep enough into that thread. I didn’t know anything about this forum or the Fw3a until about a week ago when I was asking about edc recommendations… Now I’m watching tracking like an addict
Finally got a 7A late yesterday but this first one is for my wife so the 7A had to go. I did not have the problem of too little thermal compound that some have reported in fact it was a bit too much so I ended up taking out the driver and found a pool of solder flux around the wire connections and splattered over several components and a light spray of thermal compound over the whole board.
I swapped in Samsung LH 351D 4000K’s and a Lee Zircon 804 filter and a 10507 optic with red trits and got rid of the clip for a lanyard ring
The Surefire (break away) combat/neck lanyard ring fit’s the FW3A with little to no modification(s) YMMV.
You might have to thin out the width or open up the bore to have the ring rotate, should be very minor if you have too?
The ring on the FW4A did NOT need any modifications, it fits tight, stays orientated, so I set it opposite the clip and the tail cap tightened up with out messing with the signal tube, sometimes I get LUCKY….it’s a Rare event….
What worked for me was to put a “Sunshine polishing cloth” on a flat surface, then rub the lens on it for ~20 minutes. This reduced lumens by about 3% to 4%, and improved the tint. Basically, doing this removes the plus-green filter built into the lens. It’s a very slight effect though, barely perceptible.
To protect the table, I put the polishing cloth on top of the plastic bag it came in.
The price and pictures make me think that it is legit sapphire though, and they do not fail the droplet test: (left and middle “sapphire”, right plain uncoated glass)
I compared the hotspot (350mA through the led) of my FW3A before and after lens swap. Mind that my FW3A has FA3 tint bin 95CRI SST-20 leds (that TA had sent me a few samples of ) that are 97CRI and have great tint already before the lens swap. Left with stock lens, right with sapphire lens.
So the uncoated sapphire lens made the light a tiny bit warmer and a tiny bit closer to the BBL, or more correct: the stock AR-coated lens cools the light a tiny bit and moves the tint a tiny bit upwards relative to the BBL. I think, or like to think because I bought an expensive lens, that I see the difference
Btw, I checked the tint with no lens as well and that is almost the same (duv 0.0002 lower) as with the sapphire lens (or probably uncoated plain glass as well).
I hoped for a bigger change by getting rid of the AR-coated lens and dive a bit under the BBL with the hotspot tint, but the good thing about it is that the AR-coating of these Lumintop lenses prove pretty good in that they do not change tint much.
I just finished up this tritium tailcap today. My first attempt was the single slot that I ended up putting a fiber optic into. I like how this one turned out. Does anybody know who came up with the Predator tritium pattern? This was my first attempt at doing it.
I kept the tail-standing ability, felt that was important.
That’s pretty close to Bob_McBob’s results. The stock lens appears to make the tint about 30 to 70 Kelvin more blue and about 1.0 to 1.4 mduv more green.
Sapphire sounds nice, but I’m happy with just a plain uncoated piece of cheap glass.