As far as I can tell, no. It should have the regular 100% power firmware. I never sent anything else to Lumintop, and I don’t think they’re in the habit of picking random files out of my periodic build directory.
Off topic, but what would cause it to reboot? You make it seem light a large surge of power might cause voltage sag on the MCU. Maybe the input voltage to the MCU goes below 1.8v very briefly?
In past designs, it was the other way around. Voltage would spike to levels way above the attiny’s accepted range, at the trailing edge of each FET pulse. The attiny13a was okay with this and kept working anyway, but tiny25/45/85 is more sensitive to staying within its specified range. That’s why the Astrolux S41 used a BLF-A6 driver instead of a Bistro driver.
It shouldn’t be an issue with anything recent though, so it’s kind of a long shot. This issue was fixed a long time ago in pretty much everyone’s driver designs.
That can probably be fixed by taking the light apart, cleaning everything, and putting it back together in the recommended order. Teacher’s FW3A thread has the details on that:
Okay, this points back to a physical problem. If it shuts off at high current, then you have a weak connection somewhere. It sounds like there is excessive resistance somewhere and low currents allow the light to work fine, but when the current ramps up the weak connection gets overloaded and the circuit breaks. Clean all threads, battery ends and spring ends. Make sure the driver retaining ring threads are both clean and tight.
BTW, you turned off in Lightning storm so lightning storm is the first thing that turns on. Lightning storm always starts with a quick blast of turbo. This is why going into the blinky modes causes the sudden turn off.
2. Are you sure about this? Based on the below… I think your statement is not correct Jason. Recheck yours please.
Mine do not always “start with a quick blast of turbo”. It is completely random…. from having to wait several seconds for anything to happen, to a full blast lightening strike, and/or anything in between.
I thought I remembered ToyKeeper saying it always starts with a big blast of Turbo on some other thread. I tried it on my light ONCE, and it started with a big blast so I thought it was true. It does seem to fit the profile that Atoms light kept doing the same thing every time.
I just now tried it a few more times on my light and it does seem random. I’m wrong.
Since Neal was unresponsive to my email requesting info on a possible return, I decided to chance it and see if I could confirm what my multimeter was telling me. Both solder joints on the MCPCB were intact, but after desoldering the wires and removing the driver, I saw that the black wire had broken at the solder joint to the driver. My guess is someone installing the MCPCB or the retaining ring got a little too forceful. The 7A is back from the dead and has quickly kicked the 3D to the “for sale” pile.
Neal hasn’t replied to my original email from Saturday the 25th. I sent it to his Hotmail address listed on his site. I also sent a follow up email yesterday, the 27th when ToyKeeper suggested I reach out for a replacement. Is there an alternate method of contact available? I don’t have the knowledge, skills, and tools to try and fix mine.
I was hoping to have a light for when I go camping in June, next month.
Your being optimistic. He is not going to read anything on the weekend. So from Monday to now is like 2 days. The reality is it may take a week or two to get a response. It varies based on how busy he is.