Is there a way to do a factory reset?
I think this should also be clearly mentioned in the manual.
Mine doesn't behave like its written in the in the manual at all. I might have changed so many setting accidentally (while playing around) that I can't get into Turbo mode, I can't get into the Lock Out mode, and I cant see the Battery Level...
The manual should probably start with this: FACTORY RESET: this is how to perform a factory reset.
This is pretty important!
If Iâm not mistaken: there isnât. TK did the utmost to squeeze all possible settings into one chip.
And you want for every possible setting/variant a factory setting? Thatâs why old PCâs had a BIOS and a ROM.
There is no reset. On the other hand, there is not much to be changed (NarsilM has way more settings). Just check to see whatâs working and what seems off.
I think TK can put the factory settings in post 1 or 2 so you can reset everything to stock if you want.
PS, you might be in Muggle Mode. Do 6 fast clicks from off and see if itâs back to normal.
Thanks guys.
I don't really need a special reset for every mode. I want a factory reset so it's back to factory settings for the whole firmare.
My UI looks now like this:
3 clicks from Off: I get 1 long blink... nothing else. And when I press the switch, the normal ramping UI activates
4 clicks from off: nothing.. when I press the switch, the normal ramping UI activates
5 clicks from off: same behaviur, if I press the switch, the normal ramping UI activates
6 clicks from off: muggle mode.. this is correct
From On:
double click: Off
Press and hold: ramping up till 50%, then blinks, goes back to about 20% output, and then continuous to 100%.
Something similar happened to me. Try using a tweezers, tighten the retaining ring clockwise along the driver board. See OP. If retaining ring is loose , the flashlight will act strange.
Mine is already tight. It doesnt move
3 clicks from off should be battery check, etc⌠Yeah, I donât recognize any of yours behavior.
So from the lowest moonlight level, you press and hold and it ramps up to 50, blinks, then instantly goes to 20 then continues to ramp up?
Are you sure itâs 100? Do you mean 100=Turbo? That only lasts for about 15 seconds on my light with a 30Q. Or do you mean 100% as in the top of the ramp and it heats up maybe a minute?
Maybe the FET has gone bad? That might explain the sudden reduction in output while ramping up and why it goes off when double clicking (100% FET).
Iâm just guessing because you have lots more wierd stuff going on. I donât think a blown FET would cause it to not blink the battery check.
Maybe ToyKeeper has an idea.
It doesnât sound like you messed up the thermal or ramping settings.
If you could make a video, it would be really helpful to see what itâs doing.
Sorry, yes, 100% means top of the ramp. Not Turbo.
Now the ramp goes smooth again. It looks like it now just stops at 100% of the first ramp.
Actually not.. the second ramp is there, I just have to wait a little longer.
This is also not true. Sometimes this happens, sometimes not. It might be the FET!
Here is a video
My fw3a is going bonkers when I screw the head on, video attached - any ideas?
fw3a haywire https://imgur.com/a/JNXO0TK
Itâs the tail cap. Pull the head off, battery out and take the tail cap off and apart, check the nub. Center the rubber back up place the pcb/spring back in with tweezers square and centered while holding the tail cap up vertically, run the battery tube back together in the vertical state too, snug not too tight but snug. Replace the battery and screw the head back on still holding it vertical, again snug not over tightened.
. I have had the same thing happen, and found that when I screw the tail cap on or head too tight, the rubber boot/seal squirts out, rolling/twisting the nub out of position, triggering the switch.
Thanks brother. I tried and still gives me the same problem.
Whatâs interesting, if I donât tighten the head completely, the led doesnt flicker but itâs in high mode but if I twist it down, it starts flickering and I cannot turn it off.
Heres the head https://imgur.com/a/q4g45f7
Body
https://imgur.com/a/qRi9IsP
Edit: so if I put in a lower amp battery, it turns on off fine. If i put a 30q, vtc* battery, it wont turn off
Ugh⌠ok, I think I fixed it. It seems like the inner metal tube may not have been getting full contact to the negative ring on the driver. I loosened the driver and recentered it as center as possible and torqued it down as hard as I could. Now when I screw the head on, it doesnt turn on until I torque it down.
It looks like youâre in muggle mode, except for that brief part of the video where you took it out of muggle mode and then put it back into muggle mode.
It also looks like the temperature sensor might be way off. And you might have it set to use the stepped ramp with only 2 levels, or something like that.
So.
This should get it back to the default stepped ramp. Or if you want the smooth ramp back, click 3 times instead of 4, to change the ramp style instead of entering ramp config mode.
If you use the highest-amp cell available, turbo is going to get hot.
It doesnât limit the power level; it limits the PWM duty cycle. And with a hot cell, even being on 50% of the time itâll still get hot rather quickly. But if you used a VTC5A with 219B and the emitters didnât turn into smoke, that means the firmware is probably working as intended.
If you want it to stop getting hot so fast, use a more appropriate battery⌠like a 35E.
Thank you toykeeper. Oh okay, I was under the impression that it cuts power down to half irrespective of battery type. Iâll have to read up on PWM duty cycle.
Is there such thing as drivers that can limit power?
Is there any specific method to measuring amperage of the fw3a? Do I measure with a wire from the inner metal tube to battery or outer tube to battery?
Current will be measured from the outside tube. You will need a second wire coming from the battery to touch to the inner tube to trigger the driver though. Basically twist two of them together and touch it to the negative end, hook one to the threads and use the other as a switch to double tap the inside tube powering the light on.
Yes. Most flashlight drivers actually do. Nanjg 105c is a very common driver that limits the output based on the number of 7135 chips on board (3000ma is typical) and creates lower modes by PWM. Good flashlight drivers that donât limit current are actually the newer thing we were all hungry for for years 
Thanks for the responses Matt! Nice tip on the wishbone wire I need to make.